First one broke at the seat tube, just above the top tube.
Second one broke at the left hand seat stay and chain stay, probably due to the torque reaction of the Rohloff hub.
Third one broke at the seat tube, just above the top tube.
Yesterday, at Erlestoke 12, I noticed this on my 11 month old titanium Lynskey “frame for life”.
Breaking three different frames in the same place is a bit of a coincidence.
Maybe it’s my riding style. I’m 95kg and probably ride a lot further and faster than most people my weight, although I would expect the manufacturers to allow for that in a large frame.
I tend to ride bridleways and sit down to pedal as much as possible even over the bumps, whereas a trail centre rider would tend to sit down while pedalling up the fire roads and stand while descending.
Anyway, I’m riding Bristol Bike Fest 12 hour solo next weekend and don’t feel up to doing it on my single speed.
I definitely don’t want to do Mountain Mayhem solo single speed in three weeks time, so I could do with a frame by then at the latest.
As I see it, my short term options are;
1. Convert My Kona Big Unit to Rohloff.
2. Buy a 29er Rohloff frame.
3. But a complete 29er. I’ve thought about giving SRAM XX 2×10 a go for racing anyway.
Longer term;
1. Get a replacement Lynskey frame.
2. Get a cash refund from CRC. What are my rights here ? can I demand a refund after 11 months, or has it got to be a replacement, which I’m not too keen on, as I’m not the first person to break a Lynskey frame and a new one probably won’t last long either.
Any recommendations for a Graham proof 29er Rohloff hardtail frame or a complete 29er 2×10 bike ?
Don’t on-one have some good deals on Rohloff ti frames right now? They’re not the best frames though – a mate of mine (who isn’t 95kg) has broken 3 of them at the dropouts and seat tube.
I knew someone would ask about seat post length. 🙂
142mm of Thomson post in the frame.
Just looking up On One now.
Santa Cruz Chameleon looks like it could fit the bill for a frame only. I used to run a Rohloff in a 26er. Does anyone sell the 29er in the UK ?
Just checking: how much seat post have you typically got in the seat tube? Is it a fairly tight fit or is it really only being held by the clamp. Is the very end of the post below the bottom of the weld points for the top-tube and seat stays? If the seat post is not so deep and you sit a lot, it might not be able to cope with the leverage from your strong pedal strokes. Similarly, if the post is loose in the tube and only really held at the clamp = lots of leverage. It’s a theory.
Can’t see anything on On One.
I got the Lynskey from CRC. They haven’t got a large in stock, so I’ll try for a refund as I don’t want to either wait for one or wait for mine to be repaired.
Shops are closed on Monday and I was going to travel down to Bristol on Friday.
That give me three days to sort something out.
If there’s anywhere local that has got a 29er hardtail with SRAM XX available for test ride, I would seriously consider buying it.
Bummer, What about a Curtis in T45 steel, struggle to break that!
Pick 29er geo you like and get them to build it.
Swifts seem well made and the Pegasus too but you may not want Ti now.
I know Nicolai’s are overbuilt, mine is seemingly indestructible, the Argon 29er is a very nice piece of kit and can be custom, although there are stock options which would be necessary for Mayhem.
I’d seriously have a look at Nicolai, tap up 18bikes on that front or Moonglu in Ripon.
Anyways, see you at Bikefest (I’m doing a pair there for charity) and Mayhem, which I’m doing solo cos it seems crazy!
Currently waiting for a Titus X-Carbon from On-One for both…otherwise Mayhem on my Nicolai Helius AM might be a bit of an effort.
Chumba looks nice. Ally is usually deliberately overbuilt due to the fatigue cycles.
Just checking: how much seat post have you typically got in the seat tube? Is it a fairly tight fit or is it really only being held by the clamp. Is the very end of the post below the bottom of the weld points for the top-tube and seat stays? If the seat post is not so deep and you sit a lot, it might not be able to cope with the leverage from your strong pedal strokes. Similarly, if the post is loose in the tube and only really held at the clamp = lots of leverage. It’s a theory.
It’s a theory asked in the very first reply and answered soon after…
I’d certainly be sending that back, 95kg isn’t that much and I doubt you ride it that hard, you talk about riding a reasonable amount on the road, any frame should be able to handle that!
Si, Chumba looks nice, but if I’m buying a frame only, it needs sliding dropouts or an EBB for the Rohloff.
I have my suspicions that if I try XX I will prefer it to the Rohloff for racing, but as I haven’t got any derailleurs to swap over, I need either a Rohloff frame or a XX complete bike by the end of the week.
Chainline, some names to research there. Ideally I’d like to sort it this week, which probably means sticking with mainstream suppliers and whatever they’ve got in stock.
Must be down to your riding style, i’m heavier than you and have never broken a frame. I ride 29ers and historically most of my bikes have been ridden with a 400mm post at full extension with no problems.
Getting out of the saddle more over the bumpy stuff will take a lot of pressure of the area that you keep breaking frames in.
Sorry Si, I should have spotted the bigger BB hole, I was looking for the EBB its self.
There’s no reinforcing tube to triangulate the seat stay and chain stay near the brake mount. In 1st gear a Rohloff puts 98% of the drive torque through the speedbone/caliper mount in the opposite direction.
How confident are you that it would stand up to the torque reaction of a Rohloff hub with my reputation ? 😛
Hmmm, I can’t decide.
Spending £4000+ on a Cannondale within the next week without doing any proper research is a bit spontaneous, even for me.
£400 on a Chumba frame seems a bit more sensible. I like the full length seat tube and curved top tube with triangulation. It looks a much stronger design.
What’s the outside face of the caliper mount look like ? Is it dead flat as that would make it easier to mount the Rohloff Speedbone ?
Gee, if that Van Nic Zion was a 29er, I’d be tempted.
Mr Tall, I ride marathons and 3 hour trailquests (did I mention I ride trailquests ?) and I can’t stand up to pedal for that long. I tend to sit down and spin away steadily at a fairly high cadence.
Maybe try using a more flexible seat post – a ti one will take some pressure off the frame. Ti saddle rails may also help to some extent. Thompson posts are pretty rigid.
I have a four month old Niner Air 9 which is solid, I’m 120Kg and it handles everything thrown at it, that said I’m loving my Rumblefish 2 more and may well sell the Niner, looking around £1600 with X9 build, Hope X2’s etc etc….
Chumba’s website shows the HX2 with a conventional diamond frame, only the HX1 has got the dropped top tube and brace. http://www.chumbaracing.com/hx2.shtml
If the caliper mount isn’t flat, I can probably get round it.
A Gary Fisher Rig mount looks like this. Picture 011 by Vegan Graham, on Flickr
Tell me about Tapered zero stack head tubes. Can I just get a different headset to fit my regular 1 1/8″ forks ?
Gee, that’s the thing with carbon. Is it indestructible and ever lasting, or is it fragile and likely to snap without warning. Depends who you ask and their own experiences. Maybe I shouldn’t take the chance.
Nicolai looks nice, with a Gates belt drive option too.
Anybody thought to suggest that you might be the major problem rather than the frame? Ever thought why the vast majority if riders are standing up when they go downhill (not just the ‘trail centre rider’ – proper riders too)