It's here, my new Niner
That’s the point where it stops being a bike and becomes an ornament. I couldn’t be arsed with a bike that I wasn’t going to ride, crash, fall off, and generally mistreat.
I can see your point and you’re not the first to mention it on this thread alone. However, if I’m going to be doing jumps/drops and the like, I’ve got other bikes I can do that on, ones that will handle it better and be much more fun to do it on. That’s not what this was built for, its purely for going fast round not massively technical XC courses – Dalby probably being the most technical it’ll see. That’s why its got a rigid fork and skinny tread-free tyres.
To be fair, it has been done as a bit of an exercise as to how pimp we could built it. The original spec had a set of KillHill brakes on it but apparently they just don’t work – so we went for the Clegs. I could have lost even more weight by having tubs rather than clinchers but these are pretty light and I’ve got the ease of changing tyres (well, easier than tubs).
I could SS it, but to be honest its a right faff to pull all the Di2 off it and i’ve already got a SS that I can race on.
It will be used, and it’ll be raced as hard as my fat arse can pedal it. And it does wheelie really well…just out of interestPosted 5 years agoDyffersMember
Lovely bike. I have a Scandium air9, and built with mid-range 1×9 drivetrain, Stans 3.30s on Crests+Ralphs and a DT carbon rigid fork I got it down to 21.5lb (large size frame with pedals). A few less zeros on the creditcard than yours, but something I’m happy to take out in British conditions. 18lbs is mental.
he commented that the pedal thread felt like a bearing it was that well machined.
Tune must have sorted their manufacturing out then, their stuff used to be pretty crap sadly when it came to quality! 5 years ago I wasn’t aware of anyone using anything that hadn’t broken! I know their freehubs still crack, but hopefully the rest is alright!
My Tune cranks snapped from a crack starting at the pedal thread on the non driveside; 3 years of summer road use only. I don’t think I’d bother with them again, but they did look lovely.
If you need a spare lightly used hexangonal taper BB give me a shout! 🙄Posted 5 years agoFuzzyWuzzyMember
Yeah I’m not sure why some people think a bike needs to be ridden down black runs, through a swap and then submerged in a river to clean it to constitute an MTB. It’s clear this is a race bike so why would it need to be trashed through winter to be a real bike? I’m sure a lot of people have a winter and summer road bike, I know my decent road bike doesn’t go out in the wet – I know it could cope fine if it did but what’s the point of adding wear and tear to it when I have another more suitable bike for the conditions? I even rode my ss rigid MTB yesterday because I didn’t want to get my freshly cleaned fs bike dirty again so soon, sue me :pPosted 5 years agopebblebeachMember
the amount of muppets I see pressing Di2/EPS buttons on stationary bikes in shops makes me cry
Why, its not going to break it.
Nice bike, I can understand why you want to keep it for dry days. Nothing wrong with that, I’ve got bikes I only use in the dry but thats because I have other bikes to use in the wet.Posted 5 years ago
We did speak about routing the cables inside the frame but obviously this would involve drilling the frame which would invalidate the warranty. When it’s out of warranty then it could be on the cards.
Calfee do a seat post with the battery pack mounted inside but it’s mega money and would have ruined the Enve theme! Similar with the stem, and then there’s the additional cost again.
As it stood Rob had to splice an additional Di2 loom into the existing one to make it long enough to reach the rear mech – its frightening how few copper strands there are in those cables! So to run it inside the frame would have been a right pain in the arse, especially if things break (remember, there’s not many of these about so there’s every chance it might have some issues to start with). It’s actually pretty neat up close and I’ve still got the option to run other groupsets/ss should I want to.
As for reasons as to why it’s got Ki2 on it – well, just because I suppose. Yes, its more complicated and yes, there’s a higher chance of borking, but it’s pretty cool (I’ll get a video of the front mech self trimming) and I wanted it. So that’s what it comes down to really. I’m never going to win an Elite MTB race (hell, I’d settle for a win in Sport!), but there’s nothing to stop me having a nice bike to finish mid pack!
I suppose if you were a Pro racing every weekend, chucking your bike on a plane every five minutes, training on it round the clock then the ideal set up would be full XTR/XX so if and when stuff breaks you can easily replace it. Functional rather than form. But I’m not, I don’t so that’s why its got this.
The bars are a low rise Enve bar – they’re bloody light but pretty strong. I’ve got a set on my other bike (I might be selling them) and its had a season of abuse and they still look mint. Can’t praise the Enve stuff enough, worth every penny in my book.
Ki2 stuff – Not sure if you can still buy it as a complete kit from K-Edge. Lifecycles sourced the necessary Di2 stuff in the UK and had it shipped to the US for the conversion. This mainly involves the shifter pods and changing the rear cage to a long one so you can run a bigger cassette. Its all very nicely done, and they remove nearly all the dura ace branding too.Posted 5 years agojamesoSubscriber
Nice project result. I like unusual stuff that people spend time on and it’s pretty unique. Verging on OCD/bonkers, in the nicest possible sense )
That’s not what this was built for, its purely for going fast round not massively technical XC courses – Dalby probably being the most technical it’ll see. That’s why its got a rigid fork and skinny tread-free tyres.
Fair play – Some bits of Dalby WC course on that would be more than many could handle.Posted 5 years ago
The topic ‘It's here, my new Niner’ is closed to new replies.