Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
  • is it hard to change grip shift to trigger?
  • masonmarxx
    Free Member

    As the topic.says, looking for parts that i can possibly use then transfer to a better bike when i can? Looking for some triggers but advice on affordable quality would be great!

    masonmarxx
    Free Member

    bump 😀

    TuckerUK
    Free Member

    Difficult one to answer his, which is probably why no-one has.

    The answer is no, easy peasy.

    But, if you have to ask the question, the answer might be ‘probably’.

    Most (all?) shifters come with the inner cable already attached, so it’s just a case of removing your old grip and gripshifter, fit the new shifter, thread the inner cable through your current outers, and then fit a new full width grip.

    Shifter quality and availability depends on many gears you have.

    Try Chain Reaction Cycles, Rose Bikes (Germany), and SJS Cycles for online bargains.

    brassneck
    Full Member

    Depends on the shifter & number of gears too – if it’s older SRAM, some were 1:1 cable pull, some weren’t .. so you might end up needing a different rear mech. Changing cables on x9 shifters is a pain and it’s entirely possible to blow the shifter up if you don’t pay close attention. Not that I’ve done that. Twice. 😳

    I went the other way X0 twisty 9 speed are cheap, light, reliable and you can cross a whole cassette in no time at all. got them from Merlin, £50 a pair I think, but you need something like x7/x9/x0 rear mech. It’s a preference thing of course, but I’ve not found any obvious downside yet.

    masonmarxx
    Free Member

    Hmmm okay yeah may well be a bit of challenge but that’s part of the.fun! Its a new bike so don’t THINK i would have to worry about the 1:1 ratio thing? Does 9 speed mean 3 on front and 6 on rear? Not used to mtb terms and parts 😀 kinda guess what a cassette is though!

    TuckerUK
    Free Member

    9-speed is just counting the rear cassette cogs.

    For your total ratios times front by rear:

    3 front, 8 rear = 24-speed (but chain and sprockets will be denoted as 8-speed compatible).

    2 front, 9 rear = 18-speed (but chain and sprockets will be denoted as 9-speed compatible).

    1 front, 10 rear = 10-speed

    3 front, 10 rear = 30-speed (but chain and sprockets will be denoted as 10-speed compatible).

    And so on…

    masonmarxx
    Free Member

    so therefore 3 front, 6 rear = 18 speed too? but that doesnt count as a 9 speed right because it’s not a 9 rear ❓

    seth-enslow666
    Free Member

    yeah 3 front rings and a 6 speed cassette cog on the rear is 18 speed. Though 6 speed rear cassettes are like hens teeth these days. Yes it as to have 9 cogs on the rear to make a 9 speed or in other words if you have 3 front rings its 27 speed. We now have 10 speed which everyone is selling there 9 speed so they can have 30 speed if they have three front rings!

    I just thing the 24 speed or 8 speed was the best and I would still run thats if the chains and cassettes, shifters and mechs were easy to get hold off

    timmys
    Full Member

    Don’t want to be rude but having seen in your other posts what your bike is, I wouldn’t waste any money trying to upgrade it. What you have there is what is commonly known as a BSO. You’d be much better flogging it while it still functions and putting the money towards a second hand bike.

    bol
    Full Member

    A slightly more tactful way of putting it is that the upgrade options for your bike are fairly limited. For example, if you want to put trigger shifters on, you’re going to have to go for ones that are compatible with your six speed cassette, which will be pretty low quality, and because you’d have to buy them new, relatively expensive. The other option would be to replace the cassette, mech, chain etc too, which would obviously cost quite a lot, and leave you with a drivetrain which was limited by the rest of the bike.

    My recommendation would be to leave your bike as it is, use it to increase your fitness etc, and start looking out for good quality but older used parts in the classifieds, collecting them as you can afford them and gradually putting together a proper mountain bike. For about £300 all in you will be able to build something which is massively lighter, stronger and safer, that will be able to take you up and down pretty much anything you’ve got the balls/confidence to ride.

    You’ll come across a fair bit of bike snobbery and general cockish behaviour on here, but you’ll also get a surprising amount of friendly and helpful advice about how and what to put together to get the best bike for a small budget that will really put a smile on your face.

    masonmarxx
    Free Member

    Cheers for the reply bol 🙂 i did want to make it a little better, comfortable to ride. with the advice ill just bear the bike for the time being. still doing spds though as i might as well learn them while imt at it!

    muddydwarf
    Free Member

    If i were you i’d ride the biek through the winter as hard as you can whilst saving like buggery for another one.
    That way, you’ll have fun, get fit and learn the essential skills during the winter when most are inside with a brew, and you can treat yourself in the spring!

    Most on here (me included) have spent way too much money on bikes but it doesn’t have to be that way. Take time to learn what you want and what is right for you, save for those parts and shop carefully. Its actually rather satisfying that way 🙂

    masonmarxx
    Free Member

    thanks for that 🙂 yeah i look at the new bikes i would like and they are well out of my price range 🙁 i’m a bit of a pauper! who said cycling was cheap?! might have a look at the cycle to work deals too. see if my company are willing to set up an account for that! if i bought parts separately though, would i be looking at spending more than just buying an already built bike?

    muddydwarf
    Free Member

    That depends. If you source stuf carefully you may find some amazing deals out there.
    If funds are tight i would reccomend a hardtail, it will be cheaper, lighter and cost a whole lot less in maintaince – and i speak as a fool with two full-suss bikes!

    Frame deals can be found and then you can spec exactly what YOU want on the bike,not what someone else has decided to hang on it.
    It is expensive yes, no getting away from the fact but you’ll have fun working out what you want and where from and you should save money.

    Plus (and its a big plus) doing it this way will teach you the skills needed to maintain your bike along the way, not something you will leanr by buying a whole new bike. You’ll have to build your own dream machine and it will be frustrating but ultimately so much more satisfying!
    Lots of info and help on here as well 🙂

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