• This topic has 23 replies, 18 voices, and was last updated 1 week ago by wzzzz.
Viewing 24 posts - 1 through 24 (of 24 total)
  • Internal routing – grrrr – reverting to external options?
  • Premier Icon ibnchris
    Full Member

    So I’ve just got a ‘new to me’ frame with internal routing but no cables in situ so it’s going to be a massive ball ache to fit them. And I really don’t care that much about the way it looks. Best options for going external? Zip tie is ok but moves around a fair bit…

    Frame is an Orange Stage 5

    Premier Icon intheborders
    Free Member

    Swapping a one-off ball-ache for a constant ball-ache IMO

    Premier Icon fooman
    Free Member

    Search for ‘cable guide stick on’ at eBay – I’d also use a cable tie to secure them.

    However as much as I feel your pain personally I’d perseve with the internal.

    Premier Icon StirlingCrispin
    Full Member

    Been there.

    Feed a gear cable through the routing and use a magnet / coat hanger to grab the stopper end. Then feed cable outer over the inner, before re-running the inner. Can be done in 10mins or so.

    That said, running external routing does make sense. Be very aware of cable movement and sawing of the frame.

    Premier Icon honourablegeorge
    Free Member

    You can buy little black 3M stick-on cable guides, Wiggle used to sell them. They last a long time (but not indefinitely) if you properly clean the surface with alcohol before sticking on.

    Premier Icon snotrag
    Full Member

    Swapping a one-off ball-ache for a constant ball-ache IMO

    100% this.

    Having done an Orange Stage 4 – yes its a ‘bit tricky’ but thats it.

    Start with thread, move onto a sacrificial gear inner. Run the outer and brake hose over the gear inner. An hour or so of faff rather than riding a bike with horrid stick on things and zip-ties all over it for the next few years?

    Premier Icon honourablegeorge
    Free Member

    Found them – https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/mpart-selfadhesive-cable-guides-3m-pack-of-3

    TBH, I agree with the above, I’d bite the bullet and get the gear cables done internally at least.

    I do hate internal routing for brakes, needing to cut hose and refit olives every time I remove a brake is not for me

    Premier Icon b33k34
    Full Member

    Buy the Park internal cabling toolkit And I’ll buy it off you afterwards for £15 less than it costs you.

    Premier Icon chakaping
    Full Member

    I’ve done the same Stage 4 frame as Snotrag – plus another Stage 6 – and I’d agree that it’s a horrid job, but just bite the bullet and do it.

    See if you can borrow the Park internal cabling tools, or bodge something similar yourself.

    It’s the dropper cable round the BB that I’ve found the hardest bit BTW, but got there in the end.

    Premier Icon bikerevivesheffield
    Full Member

    It’s not that hard when their are no components bolted on/in place
    Magnet and patience

    Where abouts are you op

    Premier Icon belugabob
    Free Member

    Cotton thread, sucked through with a vacuum cleaner, as a starting point, then tape the cable/hose to that and pull through

    Premier Icon cookeaa
    Full Member

    I bloody hate internal routing and it’s clearly part of the effort to “black-box” modern bicycles. I’d go so far as to say I would actively choose an external routed frame over in internally routed one all other things being equal…

    Having said that, when I’ve had to do it on a frame for the first time, making it the very first job you tackle it the best idea, being able to get a finger in through the BB or head tube unimpeded by components is the least annoying way to have to play the game….

    Premier Icon weeksy
    Full Member

    I’ve got half a dozen of the sticky ones in the spares box

    Premier Icon keithb
    Full Member

    Internal cables are the work of the devil.  internally routed hoses even more so (dripping potentially corrosive brake fluid all over the inside of your frame where you can’t see it while feeding the cable through?  No thanks)

    If I were looking for a bike I’d specifically look for one with full external routing, apart form maybe the Dropper, as externally routed droppers seem to be fairly rare/limited.

    Premier Icon b33k34
    Full Member

    Internal cables are the work of the devil. internally routed hoses even more so (

    Seconded. and hydraulic dropper posts even worse as you need to remove to service (you can generally fix/bleed brakes in situ) K’s Spectral reverb needs a service and my heart sank when I remembered the faff it had been to fit.

    Premier Icon nickc
    Full Member

    potentially corrosive brake fluid all over the inside of your frame

    Really?

    Premier Icon Superficial
    Free Member

    Start with thread, move onto a sacrificial gear inner. Run the outer and brake hose over the gear inner.

    I’d never run the hose over an inner. Inner—> Outer —> attached end of outer to hose, ideally with one of those red screw in things that come with Reverbs. Those are possibly the most useful tool for internal hoses.

    Definitely no oil inside the frame (not that I think that’s a thing). Quick lever bleed and you’re done.

    Premier Icon joe-m
    Free Member

    I Don’t understand why the reverb is still hydraulic, I brought one a few years ago as my mates kept telling me they were the best ones around but I wouldn’t buy another one as I feel no benefit over the cable Brand X one that came on my mega, which being an alloy one has very neat external routing.

    Premier Icon fooman
    Free Member

    I’ve found the hydro actuator on Reverb to be more reliable than cable which are susceptible to damp, muck, seezing etc. Remember cable brakes? That’s not to say Reverbs are more reliable overall though, and for the money I can live with cable droppers.

    Premier Icon fitnessischeating
    Free Member

    Sounds like your only option is axs…
    Feel free to show this post to your significant other… just figure out how to stop them scrolling up to the £2 stick on guides or the £0 use a bit of patience options suggested above

    Premier Icon b33k34
    Full Member

    @fooman

    I’ve found the hydro actuator on Reverb to be more reliable than cable which are susceptible to damp, muck, seezing etc. Remember cable brakes?

    The opposite. Hydro made some sense when all droppers were external and most ended with an upward facing cable at the post. I’ve never had any issues with internal cable droppers seizing up (and, to be honest, since nearly all bikes run a continuous gear cable I normally break a mech or end up removing it for some reason before a gear cable needs replacing these days).

    I’ve broken a couple of dropper levers with my knees, and seen some smashed reverb actuators or ripped off hoses, but that’s a different problem

    Premier Icon rOcKeTdOg
    Full Member

    Cotton thread, sucked through with a vacuum cleaner, as a starting point, then tape the cable/hose to that and pull through

    This 100%

    Premier Icon ibnchris
    Full Member

    Thanks for all the tips guys. I don’t think I’ve got the patience though – especially for the brakes. I did actually manage to get one half of the gear cable done but then gave up – maybe I’ll persevere on that one.

    How much do you think local bike shop would charge to fit the brakes hoses properly etc?

    Premier Icon wzzzz
    Free Member

    You can buy rivet on cable attachments.

    e.g. (much cheaper elsewhere)

    or ad a rivnut/clinchnut and these

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/ragley-cable-guide-kit

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