- Insulating a shed – any tips?
I am about to buy a new house and in the garden is a large shed they’ve been using as a kind of home gym but it’s a pretty knackered single walled Structure. It’s about 10ft by 20ft.
Given we are buying a new pad I’ve not got much cash around so thinking about cheapest option to turn it into a place where old sofa and turbo equipment (I.e. Turbo and old telly) won’t get damp and damaged.
I’m thinking polystyene and plaster boards could work but no experience of doing anything like this. Tips and advice welcome!Posted 1 week agopatonMember
External insulation has some advantages.
A vapour barrier will avoid condensation on a cold brick wall. Condensation can lead to mold and rot.Posted 1 week agowwaswasSubscriber
Cheapest way to keep it dry would be a dessicant based dehumidifer.
I’d be careful about using plasterboard that wasn’t the bathroom stuff in any outdoor structure and even then the weight of it would be an issue for most shed roofs if you want to line that too.
I’d probably go for rockwool in the gaps between battens and line it with thinish ply. Still won;t be that cheap on a building that size though.Posted 1 week agogeomickbMember
I added office space to my garage by using Celotex boards. Covered the floor, ceiling and walls with Celotex. Floor is covered with chipboard. I screwed battens to the wall, then fastened the Celotex to the battens.
I could add plasterboard but I don’t see the point. It’s single brink so they will just get damp. I don’t see the point in spending any more cash.
Did this 4 years ago and not had any problems.Posted 1 week agodogmatixSubscriber
ibnchris I am no structural engineer, but I do work from my shed/timber structure which has the same footprint you are talking about. It has an A-frame roof with trusses. It was partially insulated (polystyrene and plasterboarded when we moved into the house. I finished the job and it has been completely fine for me. The windows are single pane and I have simply used a polythene double glazing kit and added insulating tape around the edges. I did partition it to create an office space and a shed space, with a door between. This cuts down the space I need to heat. I did need to create more light so installed double glazed panes into my double doors.Posted 1 week ago5labMember
Insulation only slows the temperature inside from reaching the same temperature as outside. Unless you’re spending quite a lot of money heating it regularly, I’d guess that insulation will make no difference to the temperature when you get inside, it will just make it faster to warm up / slower to cool downPosted 1 week agofossyMember
For our summerhouse, I used the silver ‘bubble wrap’ insulation between the battons – stapled to the walls and roof, then ply lined the lot by screwing into the battons. Cheap option, for a cheap summer house, but it works a treat. Warm in winter, cool in summer. My wife uses it for craft, and has a load of fabric in there – absolutely no damp.Posted 1 week agohot_fiatSubscriber
Careful using the foil backed bubblewrap stuff (superfoil) on any building you may want to use as an office. I built a Dunster house chalet thing and insulated it with superfoil. God damned stuff turned it into a faraday cage, within which i could get neither mobile nor wifi signal.Posted 1 week agocromolyollyMember
So for a timber shed, is the correct approach to insulate between the studs but leave an air gap, then a waterproof membrane over it all, then ply/plasterboard line over that?
Depends what your friend means by air gap. For best results wind/waterproof but vapour permeable wrap on outside. Then insulation w/no airgap, or at least not one big enough to allow the warmer air to circulate in it. Than a vapour impermeable wrap on the inside. Then finish interior.Posted 1 week agostevextcMember
I just shoved some polystyrene insulation between joists after backing the outside with a waterproof layer then stuck OSB and plywood over.
Some of the polystyene was just packing from (as best I remember) kitchen units and some from Wickes then the window is made from the insulated square section plastic fixed in place with some silicone sealant and panel pins…. Under the floor it has some proper Kingspan
Joists are marked so I can screw in hooks and stuff…
Positives.. cheap (the OSB and ply was most expensive part…) insulates well enough…could be better but diminishing returns. Screwed in so if I do want to insulate better I can always put in some better insulation.
Negatives .. wasps dug out the polystyene and made a nest in the space.Posted 6 days agoswdanMember
Interested in this thread as need to do something to sort out the condensation on metal garage roof.
It’s a concrete panel garage and the eventual plan is to knock it down and build something nicer but that is way way down the list so looking to do something to stop the rain inside whenever it’s chilly out. I know ideally I’d get a new roof but I don’t have the money for that, was wondering whether sticking some kingspan/celotex to the underside of the roof would help? I know it’s not idea bit would it be an improvement?Posted 6 days ago
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