• This topic has 77 replies, 39 voices, and was last updated 7 months ago by bens.
Viewing 38 posts - 41 through 78 (of 78 total)
  • If I were to buy an Orbea Rise……
  • spannermonkey
    Full Member

    I’ve had my Rise M20 since last December & have done over 1000 miles on it in all weathers. General SDW type xc, club rides, Friston/Bedgebury/Surrey Hills/Stanmer etc. I kept my existing FS (which I have also done just shy of 1000 miles on in the same time), but I still absolutely love my Rise. It’s just so much fun!

    I’m no spring chicken at 52 and I have a number of historic shoulder & lumbar injuries but I’ve found that my fitness is improved from this time last year which can only be due to just getting out and riding more.

    I’m a serial tinkerer/upgrader so always change components on my bikes regardless of spec, but have done the following to date: SLX brakes with 203mm rotors F&B, XM481/Hope wheels, better tyres, longer 170mm dropper & contact points. Other than this I have just snagged a DPX2 from a new bike take off to swap for the DPS and will be upping the Fox 34 from 140mm to 150mm when I get it serviced.

    Bottom line: I’m really pleased I chose the Rise as it’s light enough to be poppy and huge fun, easy enough to get over stiles/gates (& stick on the roof rack) but I have to still have work when I’m on it.

    richardthird
    Full Member

    Good point, my M20 with some upgrades is bang on 18kgs and that’s my limit for lifting it over stuff (also over 50, ride SDW+Friston and with a dodgy shoulder)

    vmgscot
    Full Member

    Maybe the Rise is the ‘Skoda Yeti’ of the eeb world?
    60 years, stock H15 is 20Kg and there has been a lot of gates/styles on the Southern Upland Way 😉

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    hb70
    Full Member

    Thanks @richardthird will do that first. Good tip thanks.

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    183cm was 84cm legs and proportionate arms – Lg Rize. Very nimble and hugely different from a YT Decoy. Similar-sized to a Decoy Pro 29” in XL. Climbs well but rides so much more naturally.

    FunkyDunc
    Free Member

    Interesting re weight. The H30 I sat on in a shop I thought would be too heavy for a Thule roof rack.

    The extra battery itself is 1.4kg more than the M bikes

    Would be interesting to know the difference in range….

    jamj1974
    Full Member

    M-Team Ltd has a sensible build and seems strong enough.

    spannermonkey
    Full Member

    @FunkyDunc

    My M20 in Medium is just under 20kg which is the upper limit for Thule racks.

    Biggest issue is getting on/off the car when you’re physically tired (and only 173cm).

    johnas7
    Free Member

    I recently purhcased a H30 in april and have loved it so far. Ive done over 600 miles on it, i did start getting an annoying creak, found out it was around the linkage and pinch bolts, so loosened them and put grease on the bolts and sprayed lube around it. Tightned it back up and its been fine since. Ive got a 203 rotor up front and i changed the front rekon tire to a minion.
    Brakes seem fine so going to leave them for now, im tempted to get an airshaft for the bomber forks to extend it to 150mm travel but not sure.
    3 of my mates also got the rise aswell. Been doing over double what we usually do on normal bikes and still feel knackered at the end of the ride.

    intheborders
    Free Member

    I borrowed one yesterday from my LBS, top flight carbon model, 2021 I think with a 360Wh battery.

    Did 30 miles and 4000ft yesterday evening on our mid-week group ride – has a mixture of ebikes & normal, but 16 miles are there/back with a +1000ft either way. Normally I ride my Cotic FS and TBH coming home is a struggle sometimes – did I mention we have a beer, or three…

    While the bike was too small for me, just a large, I was very impressed with its ride, handling and performance. I ran the battery dead about 100m from the house, and the majority of the time left it in Eco with just using Trail for steeper climbs.

    I need to try a full-power eBike on the same ride to work out which would be best for when I make the decision but with the bigger battery of the Rise alloy version plus a range extended and setting up the suspension properly etc, I reckon it’d be hard to beat.

    intheborders
    Free Member

    Another view.

    Just taken the Rise for a lunch blast, kept it in Boost for the whole ride (9 miles & 1600ft). Less than 50mins and used one bar of battery fully, just dropping onto the second within yards of home.

    The 15.5mph cut-off is a PITA when out for a fast XC type blast, I was hitting it everywhere, including climbing. I need to try a full-fat bike, but one very much more enduro-style as I reckon that’s their natural ‘home’, self-shuttle.

    richardthird
    Full Member

    You’ll find hitting the limiter much more treacly on a full fat I bet, and it would happen more often with more power. But if you’re enduro-everywhere in Boost then a full fat would probably be a better fit for you.

    Not hit it limiter up hills yet on mine; on flat ish or down hill I hardly notice the transition, it’s just a pain on flat tarmac where you naturally want to be just over that silly limit. It’s also very quiet.

    20mph limiter like the US would be much better, and safer on the roads.

    FunkyDunc
    Free Member

    I know this is unlikely but has anyone ridden both the M and H models?

    The M is attract due to the lower battery weight but then will that give range anxiety ?

    Did 30 miles and 4000ft yesterday evening on our mid-week group ride

    Thats kind of what I will be looking at, using roads to link bits of off road in the Shropshire/Wales boarders. Has anyone done a direct mileage comparison between the 2 bikes, or is there any online comparisons?

    Ta

    intheborders
    Free Member

    The M is attract due to the lower battery weight but then will that give range anxiety ?

    Yes, would be my thought, I’d go with the extra range – and I couldn’t imagine trying to put an ebike onto roof rails anyway…

    doug_basqueMTB.com
    Full Member

    Ive ridden both. With the M I get 1700m climbing at 80kg in eco, with a bit of trail. It depends a lot on how much you pedal (how fit you are) and how heavy you are. Also mud and things eat range as with all ebikes.

    The H is just a straight multiple, (540/360)*1700m.

    Have you considered the range extender and the M? That way you have the battery capacity of the H when you want it and you can leave the battery, and the weight, at home for most rides when you don’t need it. That is what I went for and it’s a great solution.

    The H is great. It is a bit heavier which you notice but not too different from the M with a range extender.

    neilsonwheels
    Free Member

    I did 35 miles and 5.5k ft of climbing yesterday over Exmoor on my H15. Mixture of eco, trail and boost and used 3 out of 5 bars of power. 30-40% left in the tank maybe.? If you’ve got a set of legs you can get some proper miles out of them.

    richardthird
    Full Member

    Get an M – be surprised at how much range you get out of it – buy range extender later if you need it.

    With an H I’d be always coming home with spare battery capacity – weight – plus the additonal frame weight – and that would annoy me.

    I also like the no screen thing. 2 led’s are fine.

    fettlin
    Full Member

    Thread bump!

    How is everybody getting on with their rise? All good in the hood, any horror stories?

    I’ve had my eye turned by a ’22 M20, looks like there are some end of line deals around but I’m getting buyers remorse before I’ve even been to the shop 😅

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    Holy thread resurrection batman…

    Well i’ve had mine now for 18 months I guess. and have clocked up almost 2000 miles. In that time i have changed all the suspension bearings except the main pivots, upgraded wheels and tyres, fitted new shorter cranks, upgraded the brakes, done 1 complete drivechain change and a few extra chains, and had 1 new motor. Sounds a lot when written down but apart from the motor that would be no different to running any of my other bikes. They do get a battering. Bike has done everything I’ve asked of it and is quite happy on longer XC rides or on extreme South Wales Valleys winch and plummet. I do ride every now and then with a group of full-fat ebikers and it will happily keep pace on all but the very steepest of hills. Did one ride around the Wye valley where I finished with 1% battery. The full fats were on 12-15 %

    Some of the end of line deals out there now look like very good VFM for what is a great allrounder bike.

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    bens
    Free Member

    I’ve had mine just over a year now. Covered about 1000 miles. It’s been excellent.

    Only issues have been the creaky linkage which I’ve (hopefully) sorted with loctite.

    Had an electrical issue where it started switching itself off every time I hit a bump, this turned out to be a control cable getting pinched where it enters the frame and was easily sorted.

    It’s only really let me down once where it gave up completely with an error code. Pretty sure it was water ingress. It was a wet day, and I mean wet. Axle deep puddles all day long kind of wet. Left it to dry out in the garage and the following week it was fine and has been ever since.

    The frame bearings don’t seem to last all that long but there’s no protection for them bar the seals on the bearing themselves so that’s to be expected.

    There are some horror stories revolving round the e13 cranks not staying tight and destroying the drive spindle on the motor. e13 addressed the issue by recommending loctite and over torquing the pinch bolts. Everyone else addressed the issue by throwing them in the sea and fitting Shimano cranks instead. It’s worthwhile going for shorter cranks anyway as pedal strikes are a pain with the standard lenght.

    hb70
    Full Member

    18 months into my H30. Love it. Brake upgrade but that’s it. Put invisiframe patch over the on off switch to stop water ingress. Suspension is hard, but ok. Just ridden it loads and loads. Highly recommended if you are eyeing up some of the bargains out there at the moment.

    oldfart
    Full Member

    oldfart
    Full Member

    Had mine just over a year , despite being told I needed 4 pots or a bigger rotor oh and different tyres I decided to think for myself and it’s been fine with stock set up . Guess it depends where you ride and how aggressive you are but suits me for Mendips , Quantocks , Exmoor, Dartmoor and BPW .

    I also had trouble with that linkage replaced under warranty by Orbea , yes the on off switch is in a stupid place 🙄 that got stuck so was also replaced and is now covered with clear tape . Reading about the spat between E13 and Shimano I had the cranks swapped from new couldn’t be bothered with that .

    It’s been ideal for me coming from a full fat bike but I would still buy from an actual shop as I would with any E Bike

    b33k34
    Full Member

    There are some horror stories revolving round the e13 cranks not staying tight and destroying the drive spindle on the motor. e13 addressed the issue by recommending loctite and over torquing the pinch bolts. Everyone else addressed the issue by throwing them in the sea and fitting Shimano cranks instead.

    K’s cracked on d/s axle after 2 years – have now replaced the cranks on both our bikes.

    Latest installation instructions for the e*13 cranks have them ‘upside down’ – ie with the bolts/gap opposite (rather than over) the hole in the axle that the pin on a shimano crank drops into.

    Clearly theres something wrong with the E13’s but given it’s a proprietary Shimano design, which I’d have thought means e13 must be paying a licence fee and building to Shimano’s specifications, Shimano’s response is a bit shit.

    makkag
    Free Member

    Had my Team m20 a year now – .. and i have ridden my analog bike just once since .

    I wanted something that still felt like a normal bike and made me put some effort into it but helped if needed and well this was kinda it.

    I swapped out the Fox factory Kit for my Smashpot DVO Onyx and Jade X – Front Assagi/ Rear DHR and it’s bloody rapid and as capable down as my Ripmo – maybe even more planted due to motor weight.

    Its not quite as agile but close enough.

    Swapped to larger Rotors and the 2 Pot deores it came with are fine (Have Code RSCs on other bike)

    Also have a Creaky linkage that i need to sort and now experiencing the Power issues noted above whhich are definitely cable related.

    Its a Bit Flexy at the rear but you learn to live with it and i am 90+KG

    In all very happy and good value for money (I got mine on a close-out deal as well from my LBS )

    Go For it

    vmgscot
    Full Member

    H15 14 months SW Scotland.

    Been OK. Linkage creaking returns from time to time needing a strip/clean. Replaced a couple bearings. Ended up replacing wheelset after the freewheel shat it’s internals 200km in but Orbea sorted with a steel freewheel so didn’t really need to swap wheels out – was just impatient (and DT HX1501’s came up at £350).

    Geartrain, 2-pot brakes, motor, Fox Performance boingy bits have all been dandy.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    My H30 is going great, had it 6 months now and done 750km apparently. Two issues: the headset had a plastic / rubber spacer in it and I couldn’t get it to stay tight, new bearings & a Hope compression ring have sorted it and the ubiquitous dodgy linkage, loctite has fixed it 🙂

    I’ve changed the wheels, brakes, fork & shock on mine.

    dyna-ti
    Full Member

    Well i’ve had mine now for 18 months

    Oooo Mr Flash, got the factory version. Us lesser mortals can only afford the cheapo option.

    welshfarmer
    Full Member

    🙂 If you look closely it is only the front forks which were an upgrade. Otherwise stock H15 model

    fettlin
    Full Member

    Well,  I couldn’t resist in the end.  M20 bought last weekend,  picked it up yesterday.

    Did a quick shakedown ride this morning dodging the rain, v impressed so far. Riding without the assist on its a slightly chunky trail bike, which was a pleasant surprise. Still a good workout with assist on keeping the cadence in the sweet spot, garmin h/u is a handy tool for that. Rode mostly trail with a bit of eco, not much boost needed. Biggest change for me is the size of it! Normally ride a lrg but it felt cramped when I tried it in the shop so went xl, fits well but the front wheel is miles away.

    Thanks to everybody who’s posted, you’re positive reports convinced me to go and try it.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    So is one of the suspension issues a bolt that ought to fit inside the end of the axle pivot bolt for the frame mount of the upper linkage on the non-drive side? ‘Cos I can see bare threads, but the suspension seems to work fine.

    StirlingCrispin
    Full Member

    “suspension issues”

    Definitely worth checking the top shock bolt.

    My ’21 Orbea Occam M10 had a hollow aluminium bolt that cracked in-situ and am currently awaiting a new frame under warranty (the shock bolt could not be drilled out in-situ  by the dealer and the frame had to be hacksawed to enable this)

    Orbea sell new and improved stainless steel shock bolts and it’s worth upgrading to this if you have an older Rise.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    So is one of the suspension issues a bolt that ought to fit inside the end of the axle pivot bolt for the frame mount of the upper linkage on the non-drive side? ‘Cos I can see bare threads, but the suspension seems to work fine.

    The threads are for the preload tool, you wind it in and then tighten up the pinch bolt, then remove the tool. The issue is the pinch bolt doesn’t always pinch enough.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    Well I guess mine is pinching OK then, it all seems very solid. As do the e14 cranks atm.

    phil5556
    Full Member

    You’ll know when it’s not as you’ll either hear it creaking or you’ll be able to see / feel movement at the shock yoke when you pull the rear wheel about.

    oldfart
    Full Member

    I had the same with mine , Orbea quickly sent out replacement linkages bolts etc even bearings , bike shop theory looking at old and new sets there were problems with tolerances on some linkages possibly in manufacturing?The fact they were so quick to send out a whole new kit suggests they are aware of it and as soon as one comes to light they replace ?

    Maybe too difficult to match a dodgy batch to particular bikes ?

    bens
    Free Member

    As do the e14 cranks

    They must be the upgraded version.

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