Ideas for Carbine build
My proposed spec is:
Pike 150mm fork
Fox CTD 140mm shock
Thompson 50mm stem
Easton Haven 750mm carbon bars
SRAM XX1 gearing
Crossmax SLR wheels
Front tyre Hutchinson Toro 2.35″
Rear tyre Mud X 2″
Seat WTB volt titanium rails
Rockshox reverb dropper
Trying to keep weight down but strength good
Any ideas for improvements on this?Posted 4 years agocampfreddieMember
There is one massive glaring oversight in that otherwise fantastic spec.
Ditch the XTR brakes and go with Avid Trail jobbies. Very light, very powerful, but most significantly, you can mate them to your Reverb and XX1 shifter (go for shifter rather than gripshift) to create a very clean cockpit configuration.Posted 4 years ago
Do the SLRs really make sense in that build? Leaving aside strength (and they seem an odd choice to put on the end of a Pike) Mavic don’t recommend them for your 2.35s.
I’d go with Formula The Ones or possibly R1s depending on use, personally… Shimano can be great value but I’d not spend that much on a brake you can’t really get spares for.
The Thomson stem’s not light… I know the appeal but you can go a fair bit lighter without sacrificing strength/stiffness, I like my KCNC 33 frinstance but there’s lots of options.Posted 4 years ago
Cheers for your replies…..I’ve just had so much trouble with Avids on previous bikes ( bleeding, bleeding and more bleeding bleeding) that I’m loath to give em another go
I’m not that “in the know” re speccing up my bikes…what’s the Pike/SLR issue……I e got em on my Tallboy and they seem ok to me (our trails are mainly XC, plantation and rocky/ muddy ups and downs….. Very light at 1620gr
With reference to the mating of the reverb/ shifter….would you not put the reverb button on the left ?Posted 4 years agodirtyriderMember
id go for light bikes/derby rims on DT 240sPosted 4 years agodirtyriderMember
you can get a “problem solver” mount to mate the xtr brake lever and xx1 shifter
and yes, ive run reverb remotes upside down under the bar on the leftPosted 4 years ago
XX1 is awesome. I’d be tempted to get the RaceFace Next SL Spiderless cranks rather than the XX1 crank (RF Next SL is the lightest crank available).
Reverb Stealth; Right Hand Lever mounted under the bar (upside-down) on the left. Saddle is personal but the Selle Italia SLR suits my bum and is 135g).
The Crossmax SLR’s will be great unless your gnar-to-the-max (been discussed before).
My fingers were perfectly designed for Formula brakes so I would Run R0 (or R1 for weight weenie don’t ride mahoosive mountains). Definately upgrade the discs to the Formula (R1) Two piece rotors as they look brilliant. Formula MixMaster mounts the XX1 shifter to the brake lever… very neat. R0/T1 are so powerfull you can go down a disc size.
Thomson/Easton used to be the default Bar and stem choice but these days there are many more; especially if you end up wanting a really short stem or low rise bar. For my first build on a new frame I go with what I have or try a cheap stem and bar which are close to what I think will work; then I upgrade to the perfect option. I’ve picked up a cheap 35mm stem for my new build and will try it with my current 750mm Havoc bars. From the test ride I liked the 800mm bar and will probably get a wider bar eventually, but my frame will be slightly different so I want to see how it goes with my old bar first to figure out what rise I want on the bar.
Renthal Carbon bar and Duo stem look good but the bar is only 740mm wide.
How about something with the new 35mm stem/bar interface? Easton’s sizes are a bit limited but the new RaceFace 35mm SIXC bar and Atlas 35 stem are available in loads of sizes and look good (IMHO), and be matching collar/cuffs if you get the Next SL crank!
If you want a flat bar the Niner Flat Top Carbon RDO is the one you need.
You can tell I’m looking at this can’t you.. *geek*Posted 4 years ago
really really like those carbines, look really smart
that will be a nice build, i know someone who runs the latest SLR’s, is a very very good rider and has had no issues with them at all, just to even it up 😉
you must post pictures of the build if you do it!
which carbine is it? 27.5 or 29er? carbon?Posted 4 years agoqtipSubscriber
I wouldn’t be worried about the strength of the SLRs, but I’d want a wider internal rim width with those tyres. I run 2.35″ Maxxis High Roller LUSTs (which I believe measure up a fair bit smaller than the 2.35″ Toros) on Mavic XM819s (same internal rim width as SLRs) and I wouldn’t want to go for any wider tyres. I think the combo you suggest would be prone to tyre roll and have a non-ideal tyre profile. If you want to keep weight down then go for a narrower tyre. You could even swap out those Pikes for Revelations given the type of riding you describe.Posted 4 years ago
I’m building Light-Bicycle 33mm wide carbon rims on Hope hubs with DT Super Comp spokes. These will be less than 1600g, and perfect for big tyres.
Lighter hubs could easily knock off 100g… DT 240s or American Classic etc… but I’ll take Hope reliability (in my experience… others experiences are available).Posted 4 years ago
Yes, I built some 26” Light-Bicycle carbon wider rims up last year and gave them a very hard time. These weighed 1500g on Hope hubs with DT revolution spokes.
I eventually cracked the rear rim on the first day of the Trans-Savoie race; and continued to race on it for a further 5 days (hence the gel wrapper stopping the damaged carbon from destroying the tyre… I rode the same tyre all week too)!
When I spoke to Light-Bicycle they warrantied the rim and sent me a 33mm wide version which is of a later “stronger” generation. I ride hard and break stuff, before these I ran Flow rims and these would last me anything between two weeks and two years… no components are “bad luck” or “bad-riding” proof (another chap cracked an ENVE carbon rim in the same stage of the race… £700!). I’m not in any doubt as to the strength of the rims and that is why I am happy to buy more, and at £150 a pop I’m not as paranoid about wrecking them as I would be on £700 ENVE or Easton carbon’s).
This bike (which I demo’d) has 35mm wide Derby Carbon rims with 2.4” Hans Damf tires – awesome thing to ride and I think the wheels and tyres are part of the reason why.
The rims I have ordered from Light-Bicycle are 35mm wide like the Derby’s and hookless as I believe the hook weakens the rim right where you want some impact strength. It’s worth a read of the Derby stuff about wide rims feeling good and protecting the rim as they prevent the tyre deforming so much on impacts.
As I said; I’m building these up on Hope hubs with DT Super-Comp spokes and expect to get a weight under 1600g, hopefully nearer 1500g again.
Cost wise – the LB rims are about £300 for two delivered (inc VAT etc). £200 for hope hubs + £80 for spokes = £580 for the wheels (I build my own, I’m not sure what an LBS would charge to build wheels like this?).Posted 4 years ago
cheers messiah, nice bit of info there, thanks for that
£580 doesnt appear to bad at all given the cost of ENVE rims i guess, im not really bothered about using anything other than hope hubs, as like you say even when they go wrong they are usually a very easy fix and spares are readily available!
how do the rims go up tubeless? are they tubeless reaady rims? just require tape like flows etc?
i bet they look mahoooossive close up with hans damps on, almost fatbike territory!Posted 4 years ago
Been thinking about those rims myself, but I’d not build them on Hopes, pretty hefty for that price. Instead I’ve got a set of DT240 hubs in a used wheelset which I’ll split for the hubs. New bearings etc all round and you get a much better hub set for less- lighter, stronger and more reliable.
Nothing against Pro 2s, they’re a good value option in a Hope Hoop, but not in a £600 wheelset.Posted 4 years ago
Tubeless on the rims I had was easy. LB design them to be tubeless and I had no problems. I started out with Tape but changed to Bontrager Rhythm rimstrips which were even easier (From the huge thread on MTBR people suggested the Bonty srips as the best option).
Not sure what I will do with the 35mm wide rims yet… I’ll go and read some of the mahoosive MTBR thread to see what works best 🙄
Northwind – I agree that there are better hubs than Hope available. But I’d rather have two pairs of Hope wheels that I can swap between my bikes easily than one Pimpy set and one cheap set that requires much faffage to swap… and some excess weight in the centre of a wheel is far less important than at the outside.Posted 4 years ago
The KCNC is the same as the Thomson +/- (142g)
For light stem you want the Syntace Megaforce.
Although as I mentioned above go 35mm and you might get a lighter bar which offsets the extra weight of the stem.
Since you have a damn nice stem in the X4 and any changes at this level are small I would go with what you have…Posted 4 years agohonourablegeorgeMember
messiah – Member
The KCNC is the same as the Thomson +/- (142g)
For light stem you want the Syntace Megaforce.
Yay. Someone else is finally on the Megaforce bandwagon. Great wee stem. Sold a second hand Thomson for a tenner less than I paid for the Syntace new off EBay.Posted 4 years agomrintensityMember
Another plus for Light bicycle rims.. Have the 33mm rims on my Spider Comp, with i9 hubs and spokes.. Just under 1700g so anyone coming in under that is doing very well…Posted 4 years ago
Xtr race brakes & XO 1×10 with a Wolftooth thick-thin.
140 Pikes up front, Renthal carbon bar with a Spank Spike 50mm stem.
Stealth & a syncros carbon saddle, Mallets.
Got the Pikes as I’m racing Gravity enduro otherwise a set of Revs would have done the job for all my other riding…
Sorry for keeping this thread going for ever but I want to get this bike right…….Messiah….so I buy the rims from LB ( where are they??? and how do they get em to you? How long etc)……….my LBS will be building it so do I get just the rims from LB and then get my LBS to source spokes/hubs etc?………I know all of this might seem obvious but for the Tallboy I just specced it up and pulled the trigger ( well my LBS did…told you I was shite) and I want this one to be as good if not better and bespoke….cheersPosted 4 years ago
Pipiom. LB are in China. Best way to get a response from them is to go on the website and use the “live-chat” option (I usualy get Nancy who is very pleasant to deal with). This way they are very prompt; after a brief discussion and perhaps a few emails of pictures and diagrams they send you an invoice – which you pay via paypal, and they go build your rims. Delivery time has been about two weeks for both my deliveries. One of which I got stung the 20% import duty for so be aware this might happen.
I redid my wheel weight calcs and mine will come up about 1640g with the Hope hubs and DT Super-Comp spokes and alloy nipples. DT 240, Tune or Carbon-Ti hubs would knock a chunk off that (~100g… and knock a chunk from your wallet).
All the LBS need to know is the rim ERD for calculating spoke length – for the rims I have ordered its 589mm but Nancy will send you a diagram.Posted 4 years ago
Cheers Messiah …… That’s my wheels sorted then I’m defo going down that route ( carbon wheels virgin aaaaagh!!!!)……still convinced XTR brakes are best and defo going down the Pike route……..a well now I can relax into my Bahamas and Turks holiday hehe!!!! Guess I’d better not mention the weather……..MTB rides to book nowPosted 4 years agomrintensityMember
Ha ha….. Poor Nancy,,, Maybe she is also “Brian” as well? ;o)
The rims are the 33mm Gee76, got them before the 35’s came out… have cracked a couple myself, in 26 & 29 guise…. Still got them to seal tubeless and still ran them for another month while waiting for replacements!!Posted 4 years ago
I run a Spez Butcher front & Purgotary rear for the Gravity stuff…..matther01Member
My 50mm x4 stem was 174g! New haven purchased for the same price as sold…134g and much better looking IMO.
Light, strong and easy to maintain wheels/hubs? Picked up a pair of new 2013 AC All Mountains (the toned down graphic version!) for £370 from alltricks.fr this week…1544g. My other set are holding up really well and looking much better after removing the decals.
Save yourself a ton of cash and go NW instead of XX1 too IMO.Posted 4 years ago
For the tooblessing, are you just using yellow tape or do they need a strip? There was a lot of confused thinking on the mtbr thread from people who’d bought the earlier rims to save weight then stuck bonty rim strips in them…
Picking my 26er wheel up at the weekend- hopefully maybe- so that’s the next stepPosted 4 years ago
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