- I'd lke to lose 2lb please
"FSA bar tape 60 grams"
Some decent foam grips would be 20g, and less slippery in the wet.
Was going to say much the same myself – Bonty XXX-lite are only 14g (worn Bonty X-lite 18g on my scale). The thickness of the XXX at the back where your weight rests is the same as the X according to my calipers, and I certainly didn't have any issues with comfort riding 100k with them today – the thinner bits at the front just make an easier grip if you like your grips thin. Maybe a bit silly to save only 4g, but then I got them for the same price I could get X-lite for.
Whilst I'm weenieing, I was surprised to find that the carbon bars I took off were 125g, compared to a quoted weight of 105g from what I thought was a reputable company. Means I didn't need to save weight on the grips at all, as the new alloy bars are 116g (and half the price) – also 600mm wide having got tired of too narrow bars when using bar-ends, though I may cut a cm or two off (running the grips where they'd be for 580mm width).Posted 8 years agobarca2Member
I had the bar tape in the garage so I put it on for this mornings ride. I'll be fitting the foam grips that you guys have recommended as soon as they arrive.Posted 8 years ago
Rigid forks and 1×9? Round here? (Peak District). I can't get up Lockerbrook and the like without a granny gear.
I-beam seats/posts – save 100-200g. – I can only rest my posterier on the carbon base of an SLR. Anything else is hell.
Hope Hoops running Stans rims – save 100-200g. – I'm not arsing about with bodged tubeless. Dedicated UST rims only for me. The wheels are going to be a long time coming so I'll do some research. I'm fancying the Crank Bros. but my budget is currently struggling to reach the dizzying heights of Superstar.
Lighter bars, either carbon or alloy – save 50g. – I'm going to be looking for some light weight flats to replace the Pro carbon risers that I currently have.
Ashima rotors – save 100g – Ashima Air thingy rotors should be here by Wednesday.
XT cassette – save 50g – already using XT cassette
540 or XT pedals – save 50g – Eggbeaters all day long, lighter than XT etc. as well
Ti bolts – save 100 grams' – I've replaced the rotor bolts with Ti earlier this week. Can anybody recommend where I can get some Ti stem bolts? For the face plate and the stem to steerer bolts?
This weight saving malarky is strangely addictive.njee20Subscriber
UST isn't light, rims or tyres. Crank Brothers wheels are not light. If you want to save weight, run Stan's rims with non-UST tyres.
Ti bolts isn't really worthwhile until you've done everything else, it'll cost a lot for pretty small savings. You'd be better placed to replace what you can with aluminium (brake levers, shifters, all bolts in both mechs), as they only cost a few pounds and are half the weight of ti. Pro-Bolt is very good for bolts in both materials though.
Depending which Egg Beaters you use you could get some ti axles for them. There's a chap on Weight Weenies who sells CB ti axles via eBay, they're cheap, very light and allegedly quite strong (more so than the stock ti axles on the 4ti), I've had a set since July and they seem fine.Posted 8 years agob rMember
I'm not arsing about with bodged tubeless. Dedicated UST rims only for me. The wheels are going to be a long time coming so I'll do some research. I'm fancying the Crank Bros. but my budget is currently struggling to reach the dizzying heights of Superstar.
Stans rims are not bodged, and easier than normal rims with a stans kit.
I've 819 rims on Hope ProII's, and they are heavy – and if you run UST tyres also, about 400g per wheel heavier than Stans rims and normal tyres.
I'd be concerned with the CB (and other 'factory' sets) wheels purely that the odd time I've broken a spoke I've just been able to walk into an LBS and had it replaced.Posted 8 years agoaracerSubscriber
Ti bolts isn't really worthwhile until you've done everything else, it'll cost a lot for pretty small savings.
Indeed – I've got a very weenie bike (though not quite as extreme as some on here), and only a few ti bolts, as it's just not worth it. Rather silly if you're considering heavier factory wheels which will more than wipe out anything you can save with bolts.Posted 8 years ago
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