I am man! Defender! Provider! Mechanic!
^wot Stoner said about doing them up. Lix Toll here are buying up old 110 station wagons as fast as they can – literally bought a HGV car transporter full from a main dealer in Devon area and shipped up to Scotland.Posted 4 years ago
They will do a every last nut, bolt, wire, full galv, interior, paint the works on an old machine. They ‘improve’ a couple of things that they know are issues while at it.
It still works out cheaper than a new one by quite a margin.
It has far less to go wrong, is built better and is just like driving a new one out the factory, except with more space inside and some character going on.
I was a real Landy sceptic, and would still not own one day to day doing what I do. But I do think they are amazing as a tool for a job, and would much rather have an older one re-built than a new one or any other 4×4, if I needed one. One of the few vehicles that put a smile on my face…
And if you use them properly…
IMGP6197 by matt_outandabout, on Flickr
Landrover 110 by matt_outandabout, on Flickr
Ben by matt_outandabout, on Flickr
Im sticking to the tdi, mainly because there’s no electrics in there (save for a oil temp/pressure and the glow plugs). It’s a v basic engine that I can look after mostly – esp all service parts and lubes. If something big goes bangwallop though (or it’s up for a timing change), then it will be down the local Landy specialist.Posted 4 years agomatt_outandaboutSubscriber
Now I know this is sacrilege, however…and I know they cancelled the ‘new’ Defender….butPosted 4 years ago
I do wish that some clever boffin would ‘rethink’ a Defender-esque, simple to maintain, reuse and re-build car.
A car that is efficient through engine build and lightness, not fancy pants electrics and mechanical uber-complication.
One where you can fix everything easily, and is designed to be fixed simply.
One that sorts some of the Landy issues. One that is a practical, slightly utilitarian vehicle.
That new Nissan NV200 was meant to be a bit like that, as an example.
maybe JCB will go big with their WORKMAX range one day…
Posted 4 years agoglobaltiMember
Stoner, did you fit the replacement plastic headlamps from Lucas? They don’t rust out in a couple of years like the old metal ones do.
It’s amazing that Defender is still in production; it must be massively loss-making in comparison to robot-assembled monocoque cars as it’s still assembled by hand. When my brother was on chassis and powertrain at Solihull he took me round the line one Friday; he warned me that the most frequently-employed tools were the big mallet and the pry bar and sure enough, blokes were beating and bending the vehicles together, so big were the tolerances.
We miss our ex-MOD 90 but it was a money-pit. Kankku in Windermere have some you can hire for the day:Posted 4 years ago
Mrs Stoner lived in Moscow for 7 yrs before she had misfortune to meet me. She used to own a Lada Niva which was morth more than a brand new one – simply because it had already had key parts replaced/repaired since it was new. Mainly a new clutch and gearbox I believe. Once the “factory fitted” crap had been removed, it became quite a sought after car.
There’s something a little of that in what Im trying to do with mine. Not really for value terms but to minimise the effort of looking after one by galving as much of the steel as possible and reducing switch loads with relays and minimising earth faults with wired earths.Posted 4 years ago
Progress, and a favour to ask.
All the panels back from the painters now. £600 for the lot. I think that’s OK. And it’s come out well.
I’ve been working on the rear tub out in the garage – rebuilding it on the chassis as opposed to building it on a jig and fitting it later. New n/s rear quarter fitted, cappings refurbished and refitted. New lamps etc and the looms all in place ready for connecting one evening. That’s the floor I salvaged from the crashed donor – all hammerited and tidied-up. It should last another 20+ years now.
and refurb’d eyebrows fitted as well as some rear corner protector chequer plate, again salvaged form the donor tub.
Sliding side windows out and refurbished and refitted with some nice little stainless steel socket caps.
Now for the tricky bit, I need to replace the decal on the slam panel. It’s come back from the painters in white, as approved by the design committee. Here’s the original decal:
And here’s some mock ups Ive done already.
Any comments? Is the font (Britannic Bold FYI) OK? Should the lines be fatter/thinner? Any other ideas? Im free to do as I please here. I have a friend who can print cut some vinyl for me.
I will test print an STW committee approved decal and stick it on here for judging later.Posted 4 years ago
Now to phone the bulkhead people and find out where the hell my bulkhead is at Grrrrrrrr!.
This is a pretty handy website http://www.landroverworkshop.com
It’s fairly new and not quite finished but the guy building it has deconstructed the dealer parts catalogue so you can browse via the diagrams.
It the pulls in prices from the usual suspects giving an option on Genuine, Aftermarket, OEM which is dead handy as with LR for certain parts anything other than Genuine is a false economy.
It’s a bit flaky but still very usefullPosted 4 years ago
Also, while your at this crucial stage have you considered sound proofing?
Especially the bulkhead, you’ll have a really good opportunity to add some dampening mass (Flashband) to it before you put it back together.
Makes a big difference if added to
Inside door skins
Seat box & floors
Rear tub & floors (although it looks too nice now)
Also, before you start bolting all the Ali and Steel back together get a good jointing compound
For what it costs (although it’s horrible stuff to use) it will pay for itself a 1000 times over when you avoid classic LR bimetallic corrosion. (When the Ali goes a bit white powdery around steel contact points)Posted 4 years ago
cheers for the link.
Yes I had considered sound proofing, and will probably use some adhesive foil lined padding on the engine bay side of the bulkhead. The seat box and foot wells are going to be lined internally with rubber stable matting – it’s very dense and heavy so will damp sound well as well as insulate to some degree, but is also designed with channels to allow draining. I dont want to use any adhesive inside the cab though.
Im toying with refurbing the headlining or making my own from some 1″ closed cell foam sheets. But I can do that right at the end.Posted 4 years ago
You’ve got a Land Rover now,
That sticker is a must!
To conform you’ll also have to:
Wear ex mod combat trousers all the time, in fact you may never remove thesePosted 4 years ago
Ensure your mobile phone is attached to your belt
Have a proper man beard
Own a Frontier stove 😉
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