How to remove a bonded on fork?

I was recently gifted a half-decent Specialized hardtail that I am going to tidy up. However, it has been left outside for most of its life so it’s a bit tatty. I have given it a good wash and degrease and I will strip it down as best I can to regrease (ie, wheel bearings, headset bearings etc (I don’t have a crank puller so the BB is out – I will deal with that as and when it implodes.

HOwver the fork is stuck fast – I have taken the cup off along with the bars but the fork is stuck in there (I think it’s a couple of spacers that have bonded to the tube). I have blathered the area in WD40 PTFE stuff (it’s been soaking in for 48 hours now) but I cannot get it to move. I could just leave it, however I want to try to service the fork. I have tried putting the wheel back on and banging it hard (to try to break the seal) as well as hitting the top of the tube with a rubber mallet, all to absolutely no avail.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do with it?

Thank you!

dremel through the spacers?

Bigger hammer. Seriously.

I had to cut through a Hope headset cup to get one out once.

The fork is still in the headtube, but you’ve managed to remove one of the headset cups?

We need photos.

Cut the spacers, Don’t have to go all the way through, just enough to get them to split.

Or use freeze spray/boiling water (unless the steerer AND spacers are all aluminium, won’t make a huge difference in that case) then smack with a rubber mallet.

For cup I’m reading cap.

The fork is still in the headtube, but you’ve managed to remove one of the headset cups?

Sorry, probably me getting it wrong – the metal cup that covers the top of the steerer tube.

Piece of wood on top of steerer, and hammer the wood.

I think I successfully used boiling water once when an aluminium conical spacer in the headset had welded itself to the steel fork steerer.

the metal cup that covers the top of the steerer tube

The top cap? That doesn’t keep anything in place, it’s just used to adjust the preload. Have you undone and removed the stem? Tried getting a screwdriver between the spacers?

Here are some pics…

The offending bike

The bonded on steerer

The (pretty-well goosed) fork

I am hoping I can get the fork working again – I am hoping that the dust cap that has lifted off will screw back in if I can get the fork to compress. Otherwise it is going to remain a fully rigid bike as a new fork would cost almost the same as the bike is worth!

Tried getting a screwdriver between the spacers?

Yep, tried that and also tried with locking pliers around the spacers.

Ooof! Messy. File/sand off the rust above the spacers?

Or hacksaw and the forks go for recycling…

I’d have a good think about what you’ll use this bike for and why you are fixing it up. Fair-play if it’s to donate as a commuter, use as a learning experience or similar but, really, you are going to spend loads of money and time and end up with a BSO. (with a decent name on the frame of course!).

I predict you’ll find one problem after another. Cable operated disc brakes are likely to be seized up. All cables will be rough. Everything will be hard to get apart… as you’re discovering. And then it’ll ride like a dated bike with very low-end parts!

Sorry

Get some proper wd40 penetrative on it, not the normal stuff. Then bit of wood and a big convincer and give it a good old whack.

I’d have a good think about what you’ll use this bike for and why you are fixing it up.

It’s for a child in care, just trying to do something for him.

The rest of the bike seems okay / the brakes work, the mechs are okay, both wheels are true. The paintwork is a bit scabby but other than the fork, it seems kinda okay.

I am hoping I can get the fork working again

I’d imagine that fork is toast. Sorry.

I’d be applying a twisting force – clamp the spacers with a mole grip and try twisting? Either way teh fork is dead from a suspension perspective, but if you really wanted to service it, whats stopping you servicing it in situ? I don’t normally take my fork off my bike when servicing it

you need to take a wire wheel to the top of that steerer tube to clear the rust then go from there

Clamp stem up above the rusty bit and ride it off drops until it frees up.

Wear a full face and check your dental insurance tho.

Or, as above, get some proper penetrating fluid on there, try to hammer a chisel between the spacers and clean the rust above the spacers.

And keep wanging the top of the steerer with bigger hammers.

It’s gonna feel so good when it finally comes free.

It’s a steel steerer and aluminium spacers.
Kettle full of boiling water followed by a smack with the rubber mallet.

It’s for a child in care, just trying to do something for him.

The rest of the bike seems okay / the brakes work, the mechs are okay, both wheels are true. The paintwork is a bit scabby but other than the fork, it seems kinda okay.

Nice one. I’m sure there are plenty of folk on here who will donate parts if needed. That fork does look to be shot (steel steerer and legs are very corroded) but loads on here will have decent working forks (26″) squirreled away that they’ll donate for a good cause like this. New cables will likely be needed: even a bit of friction causes shifting problems. And new cables always feel great 🙂

The fork – I would be concerned about giving that to someone as it looks like the top bushing has also come up out of the lowers and if it has it may not stay in if you push it back down (black cylindrical ring below the dust seal that has come out). That could allow the lowers to flex putting lateral stress on the shafts, that could then snap allowing the lowers to come off.

Those forks are knackered just cut them off, or at least cut the spacers off.

I’ve got a set of 27.5 crappy suntour forks you can have for nowt.

I’ve also got some 26″ tyres, Geax AKA tubeless if the ones you have are shot.

I’m in Leeds.

3 in 1 penetraring oil would be my next move. Its magical stuff.

Then a hammer. A really big one. Or possibly pick the frame up and smack the fork steerer against a bit of wood or something.

IMO the fork is wrecked. The sliders are corroded and the seal has popped out for a reason. Clamp the steerer and cut off through the spacers.

The only trouble with cutting through the steerer is that then you’ve nothing left to whack. The conical device in the headset, even if made of plastic can have a very tenacious grip on a rusty steerer. Patience is your best weapon!  As others have said, clean up the steerer as well as possible and apply a decent penetrating fluid regularly over a week – I’ve always had good results with Screwfix no nonsense. Cut slots in the spacers if possible and then they should lever off. Remove the bearing cover, if fitted and then pick out the cone washer – these grip inordinately to their size! This should then give you chance to hold the frame as tightly as you can, rest the downtube on something rigid but with a bit of shock absorption- wood, then, bash the top of the steerer with a large hammer and a block of wood on top. I wouldn’t use those forks again, even some rigid ones would be better. If you need any bits I’ve still got a stock of new bits, including headsets that you can have, free. Hope this helps, if you’re near Chesterfield than you can bring it to me. Hope this helps, don’t hesitate to direct message me.

If that was in my workshop I’d take a hacksaw/dremel and cut the headset spacers off then give the steerer a whack, 5 min job at most.

Similar to above, put the stem back on 1 or 2mm above the spacers and find a small flight of stairs, a few rides down should free it up, What’s the worst that could happen, or just try doing endoes until it releases.

I’ve hammered a fork out of a skip-rescue bike – took ages and left me with some sort of RSI in my arm for weeks.  I’ve checked the frame hard and can’t see the cracks but I bet they’re there, just waiting …

Wire wheel the steerer
Cold chisel the alloy spacers
should loosen up then

stanchions will clean up and function somewhat with wire wool and wd40

they will rust again in the rain and seize up again.

Maybe just buy a rigid fork and big tyre and bin the nasty heavy suspension

I’ve got a set of 27.5 crappy suntour forks you can have for nowt.

I’ve also got some 26″ tyres, Geax AKA tubeless if the ones you have are shot.

I’m in Leeds.

Thank you for the offer – I am in Harrogate so not too far away (although I only really get into the centre of Leeds as I commute to the office). However I need to see if I can actually get the old fork out first! I have now tried the ‘lump of wood and a lump hammer’ approach and it has come out partially – I am going to leave it for a bit (resoaked) and have another go.

Do you know anyone with a crown race remover or similar?

IceToolz Crown Race Remover

I’m in LS26, Woodlesford between Garforth and Rothwell, go up to Tadcaster 2 or 3 times a week for work, so could meet in Wetherby services or something if you need the other forks.

I’m in LS26, Woodlesford between Garforth and Rothwell, go up to Tadcaster 2 or 3 times a week for work, so could meet in Wetherby services or something if you need the other forks.

Thank you very much – I will let you know how I get on 🙂

Update…

I got the fork off (yay)!

The crown race went flying (not so yay! – I have lost a single sodding bearing) FFS.

I have had a quick look at the fork now that it is off the bike, tipped it upside down and loads of water came out – it is clearly well beyond economical repair so ADS678 – if that offer of the forks still stands could you DM me and we can arrange to meet up (by the sound of it, they may be the same fork – the one that has come off is a Suntour XCT 27.5).

And if anyone has a single bearing (I assume it will be 4mm????) could I have it please 😉

@johndoh, if you post here any parts for it you think you might need as you go along, I’m pretty sure between us we can get them to you.

I’ve loads of bits in Sheffield