Looked this up but not much luck getting a definitive answer.

I’ve been going through my spare bin of parts and cleaning them up. For the final degreese of all left residue on rear mechs/ hard to reach areas of saddles that look clean but aren’t I’ve been using Halfords Paint Prep wipes for a quick once over. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/fillers-preparation/halfords-paint-preparation-wipes-x5

On a microscopic level will I be damaging the finish on these parts? Shimano doesn’t clear coat parts do they so it’s just direct contact with the metal anodized surface and then evaluates – 70% IPS 30% water in most wipes. I know this is counter-intuitive but after using those Paint wipes I’ll wipe over the surface again with a new cloth in water just incase these stories I’ve read of IPA (hmmm) wipes “burning” the finish on brand new painted cars and bikes but for our good old MTB anodized parts I’m imagining the pain prep wipes are okay to use or is it a no no for some reason I’m missing?

Just spray wd40 and wipe off with a rag

Wow, and I thought I over-thought things.

Paint is a pigment with a solvent, you apply it and the solvent evaporates. Add more solvent, it can dissolve again. This is the issue with using alcohol based wipes on a car.

Anodising is completely different. The process oxidises the top layer of metal, and the resulting aluminium oxide is tough and impenetrable. It’s what rubies are made out of, and you can’t wipe rubies away with a prep wipe. As long as your wipes aren’t highly acidic or alkaline (which then won’t be) you’ll be ok.

Thanks, I know it’s over thinking to a level that’s border line obsessional. Just to be clear I found some lovely New Old Stock parts in the parts bin so it’s mainly those parts I would like to look after the correct way as they’re mint under a layer of dust and grime and wouldn’t want to use anything too harsh and I was looking for that clean dry look New parts have rather than a wet MD40 coverage would give (great practice mind you) so think the IPA paint wipes are good for what I intended and thanks for putting me right on thinking there’s any real issue on metal bike parts.

Perfectly safe to use Acetone/nail varnish remover.

Anodised is hard to harm unless an alkaline eg salt, (you can strip off the anodised surface with some oven cleaner). Some of the MTB cleaners are Alkaline and if left on (ie not washed off with lots of water) can damage the surface. Most things will clean it, paint prep ok, WD40 ok, ACF works well.

alkaline eg salt

Now I admit it’s been a while… But salts… Is neutral aren’t they?