it only matters if you are shit hot and YOU, yes YOU, are not shit hot.

My “road” bike weighs in at 33lb…it’s my Wolf Ridge, complete with 160mm forks and a chain device which coped admirably with the road commute out of London the other evening. It’s ace on potholes.

Would I bother with a sub 20lb road racer? Of course I would, but I’m not allowed to buy any more bikes.

My roadbike weighs 17.1lbs or 7.75kg according to the shops digital scales and it’s an a 20yr old mtb/singlespeed so i guess thats cheating – i don’t own a “proper” geary genuine roadbike though so i’m including my ugly bike to upset the roadie purists 😀 .

The madison rep was round last week with a full Dura Ace DI2 equipped carbon wunda bike and i took it out for a quick run about the town and up/down the bypass, this was my first time riding a genuine roadbike rather than a mtb with slick tyres, i was trully shocked at how fast it was to get up to speed and how easy it was to sustain it, the Dura Ace DI2 was lighting fast and so crisp at changing gear……it’s got me thinking i want a custom TI or 953 roadbike now….i can’t afford one but i still want one. 🙁

But it does include a 20g power meter now.

How are you finding the Stages? Would like go try one, but concerned about the reviews.

This old thing is a 92 Trek 2300 with modernish kit. It weighs in at 7.57 kg but I could loose more quite easily but it would cost and I like it alot as it is. Wheels are new and weigh 1362g but I will be building lighter soon as I am about to start importing some carbon rims direct from a far eastern factory that supplies the OEM market.

I also use conti’s super sonic tube with issue.

It now has KCNC CB1 flexy brakes but they work O.K

30lbs today including cheese sandwiches, 26 unladen, meh.

This is a smidge under 20lb – not at all lightweight by the standards here…

Hoping a swap to a carbon frame at some point will save 1/2lb or so.

My merlin is 14 lb 2 oz. but no pedals as I’m just waiting on some new ones
Not to bad for a second hand bargain that does not have an ugly plastic frame lol

Mrs had a custom omega with tripple butted easton scandium up till last weekend, weighed 19lbs

Took it into the shed for a new chain, cassette and tires + put saddle up 1 cm

Promptly snapped the frame

Shes now the proud owner or a 17.5lb small dolan mythos with full 6700 groupset and my good time trialing wheels which i always found flexy and spesh turbos with attack and force combo on.

She. Has been usng her winter bike till now on the club runs – day one alfine 8 with rack guards and lights and untill last week winter marathons at 1kg per tire….and keeping up with them. She will be motoring on the dolan.

My giant ocr got an upgrade to her old 6600 and her old ksyrium equipe wheels and heavy tires – still weighs 21lb sadly- be as well fitting slicks to my race mtb …its 20lbs

Oh and that bianchi is gopping

14lb 3oz – supersix evo

7kb (about 15.5lbs) with bottle cages, garmin and pedals. With the seat pack it’s about 250g heavier.

My new(ish) Focus is considerably lighter than my old Trek. That’s as quantitative as I can manage without trudging out to the shed with some scales 😀

My Scott Scale is my road bike and my off road one too. Weighs in at just under 19lbs..

My Dogma 2 is just under 16lb, my S-works SL3 was lighter by quarter lb

For anyone interested, this very definately is not my bike for sale (and ebay is useless if you try and report it).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271165061908?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D271165061908%26_rdc%3D1

oy I’m already watching that one!

what do you know about it?

Eventually finished mine and rode its first check ride of 22 miles yesterday. Really needed an MTB on the roads round here. Weighed it as 7.9 kg with pedals, computer and mud, which isnt too bad. Just ordered some thin tubes as the ones I fitted were pretty heavy at 120 grams each ( all I had) and the bars and stem are just cheapies to see about position and will change for carbon bars/ stem combo possibly later in the year after I have tweaked a bit.
Spec is a Dolan Hercules carbon frame, full 105 groupo except an uberbike BB, Hope hoops Pro 3 wheels, carbon Dolan post, Bonty bars and Deda stem. Rides great and ready for its first sportive next Sunday.

That looks nice Thrusty, internal cable routing?

Yes mate, its internal and Di2 convertable too for the future. Its lovely to ride, must say I am chuffed.

if i have decent tyres and no lights, no mudguards etc, which is what it has on it for now, it comes in at 19lbs.

at moment probably 22-23ish.

Thrustyjust-Not tempted to go one(maybe 2) size up at all? 😉

I did question the size, but the standover is the same as my Cube and also the top tube is the same, so going bigger meant a longer reach . This was recommended by Dolan. Guess as being a compact frame it shows more post. The seatpost comes with the frame and has a good 2 1/2 inches to go before reaching its stop limit.
Used to riding old style road bikes with tiny posts showing , so seemed a bit different, but then my Cube is the same.

The Cube’s are particularly short in the tt.I’d end up going Up a size or 2!!

At the risk of sounding uneducated / controversial how much difference does bike weight make to the average amateur rider? My £800 tiagra equipped 10 / 10.5 kg base model road bike seems to do me well enough – I’m just curious if its marketing hype or willy waiving? Don’t get me wrong I’m not criticising anyone for spending ££££s on a road bike I’m just curious what the actual improvement in performance is?

I see the benefit of expensive light weight / quick rolling wheels but struggle to see what difference overall bike weight makes when many of us weigh upwards of 180lbs?

but struggle to see what difference overall bike weight makes when many of us weigh upwards of 180lbs?

light is nice, and there is an element of mind games that shouldn’t be ignored,

I see the benefit of expensive light weight / quick rolling wheels but struggle to see what difference overall bike weight

So why do you think wheel weight is significant if overall bike weight isn’t?

Wheel weight due to rotational weight and my belief that the lower the rotational weight the quicker you will accelerate – or have I got that wrong?

Today I raced my race bike for the first time since last season, not even put a leg over it since last year.
Only ride my training bike with heavier bits.
All I can say about the difference is ‘shit the bed’

Wheel weight due to rotational weight and my belief that the lower the rotational weight the quicker you will accelerate

Will lower overall bike weight not also result in faster acceleration?

Rotational weight is worth more, cos you have to rotate it and move it along.

Light wheels probably contribute to that oft used phrase “it rides lighter than the scales suggest”

My Canyon F10 is at 6.8kg with the pedals.

S6300233.jpg by Seb Perrotin, on Flickr

Rotational weight is worth more, cos you have to rotate it and move it along.

<sigh> only if you think acceleration is important. The amount of power used in acceleration is actually a very small proportion of your total power output, even if you’re doing crit racing. Though let’s do some numbers as well…

Open Pro, 425g
American Classic CR350 (one of the lightest readily available clinchers), 350g

So a total weight saving of 150g the pair. For a typical 75kg rider with a 8kg bike, switching from a pair of wheels with Open Pro rims to CR350s will make a difference of 0.36% to the acceleration (that’s accounting for linear and rotational inertia). IIRC there needs to be a difference of at least 5% for the average human to be able to detect it even in a strictly controlled back to back test.

Remind me again why light wheels are so important?

A lot of the bikes on here would be even lighter – if only they didn’t have all those spacers…

😈

A lot of the bikes on here would be even lighter – if only they didn’t have all those spacers…

Sorry, better take 6 grammes off for the carbon spacers then. 🙄

A lot of the bikes on here would be even lighter – if only they didn’t have all those spacers…

I dont know, leave the massive spacer stack and wait for the steerer tube to snap. They’ll definitely be lighter without a stem and handlebars.

I do hope that is a figure off the top of your head and you don’t actually know how much they weigh? 😛

I wouldn’t advocate riding a bicycle that was as much unsafe as it was sportive bathchair – and think of the weight savings!

Someone must know how much a mm of steerer weighs?

Poor old Cav – his bike weighs 7.7kg! What a muppet, if only he knew…

Mine weighs about 24lbs (11kgs).

Steel is real 😀

I thought the weight of wheels were more important because you have to move them further. For every yard the bike moves forward the rim, tyre etc has to move nearly twice as far, what with the up and down and even backwards. So more energy savings there.

That said for the average rider doesn’t a kg only equal about 10 seconds per hour? Might matter to Cav, but personally I don’t even bother peddling down the hills.