Spilt them on the floor whilst fettling with a cup and cone axle for the first time… Lesson learnt.

I found 13 which is what the service manual seems to show, but that leaves a bit of a gap which a 14th would fill.

I’ve always had a bit of wobble on the cassette which led to the fettling. Apparently this is normal with cup and cone, the mech shifts ok and there’s no play in the wheel.

13 is correct. Presumably that means you’ve already looked under the fridge, because there’s always one there.

I’ve never noticed play on any c&c freehub. Does it go away when you tighten the QR?

Thanks, that’s good to know.

The play is still there when the axle is tightened.

One less than the max that will fit in used to be the rule of thumb.

The play at the cassette is probably due to the bearings in the freehub body, which are independant of the main bearings that you’ve been adjusting, and not really user serviceable. Replace it with a new one, and the play should disappear (assuming you’ve checked the cassette is tight, of course).

The bike is fairly new, the play has always been there.

I’m a cup and cone noob, but have replaced freehub bearings before. Are you saying that specific SLX hub/freehub isn’t serviceable, that seems weird.

 Are you saying that specific SLX hub/freehub isn’t serviceable, that seems weird.

Shimano don’t make serviceable freehub bodies

Take one apart, you’ll see why they aren’t user serviceable.

Shimano freehubs are not designed to be serviceable, they are designed to be replaced as a unit.

You can take them apart, its just not a fun job (unless you like that sort of thing), plus the cups and cones could be pitted etc, no spare parts.

So you replace the freehub? Is it easy to remove from the rear hub? Massive Allen key?

Yes. 10mm IIRC.

Shimano don’t make serviceable freehub bodies

They did with the original Saint hub – beast of a hub!

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FH-M800-2260.pdf