Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • How easy to swap parts from one bike to another?
  • bradley
    Free Member

    So I have a full sus bike but I’m starting to realise my riding doesn’t justify a full sus. Can I just buy a HT frame and swap bits over? It’s a 26″ wheel lapierre x control 110 with 120mm forks. Which HT frames suit 120mm forks?

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    Easy if you have the tools and the skills, but it can be a minefield if your parts aren’t compatible – Steerer lengths & diameters, BB widths, brake mounts, seatpost diameters, brake hose lengths etc….

    bradley
    Free Member

    That was my worry. I don’t have the skills probably but will learn as I go. Is it likely to be a total ball ache?

    chakaping
    Free Member

    And you could easy spend more than the secondhand value of your FS frame on a new HT frame.

    So are you really sure you will prefer one? Have you tried one?

    I hope that doesn’t come across as patronising, it’s just that I’ve noticed a few riders on here doing this and then getting a rude awakening – and ending up out of pocket.

    bradley
    Free Member

    I used to ride a cheap hardtail but an unfortunate accident involving a motocross bike and the frame caused a huge dent when the motocross bike fell over in the garage and then decided to buy the full susser.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    In that case take no notice of me 🙂

    It’s pretty easy to swap stuff over IMO. Do you know if you fork has a tapered steerer and if your BB is press fit or external?

    I’m guessing the frame has QR rear dropouts.

    patriotpro
    Free Member

    Do checklist/spreadsheet of all your existing parts’ sizes measurements and types and enter the same of the frame you fancy adding a column in for you to add in the extra costs when you come across incompatibility.

    Might sound boring but it will allow you to go into the project knowing full well what potential costs will be.

    Don’t forget to budget for tools…

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    Areas to watch for are headset/fork diameter, seat post, seat clamp, front mech band, bottom bracket, rear drop-outs & rear brake mounts. As said above, make a list of what you have first.

    As for suitable frames, you haven’t mentioned a budget, so to suit 120mm forks, I’d suggest an On-One Inbred for £140 or a Cotic Soul for £500.

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    And also allow extra budget for new cables & brake hoses if required.

    456mocha
    Free Member

    Did not regret my attempt. It may cost a bit more but i now have the confidence to do my own maintenance
    tools will last for ever too. Just leave headsets to the pros. For most jobs google and youtube are your friend.

    loddrik
    Free Member

    I’ll guarantee you’ll end up getting fed up swapping over and build up both frames.

    It’s exactly the sort of excuse which is needed, as many on here can testify to, myself included…

    bradley
    Free Member

    That’s a good idea regards writing everything down to make checking compatability easy.

    I want a new 2×9 front mech anyway so the old 3×9 will become a spare. New seatpost/clamps aren’t too expensive so that’s ok. I would probably buy a new headset and bottom bracket anyway, so given this, does it make it a lot easier?

    tonyd
    Full Member

    What travel is your full suss? I had a hardtail and a 140mm full susser but wasn’t riding enough to justify keeping both bikes so consolidated them into a shorter travel full susser more suited to my general riding.

    A 3×9 mech can easily do 2×9, just move the stoppers.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    I want a new 2×9 front mech anyway

    I’m not sure you can get such a thing.

    Manufacturers only bought in 2x drivetrains with 10-speed.

    And a lot of mechs will do both anyway.

    davewalsh
    Free Member

    IIRC you could get a 2×9 SLX front mech to suit the 22/36 chainset.

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