Up until July last year I was getting sick of paying (yet again) more massive maintenance bills. So from then onwards I started recording them. When I added it up it turned out that I seem to be paying even more than I expected.

From July to December I paid a total of £686 in maintenance costs. £686 for a 5 month period. This period seemed nothing unusual. That’s £137 per month to keep a bike maintained. It did 1680 miles in that period.
It didn’t even perform very reliably, failing twice in that period ( causing a wasted round car trip twice and a struggle to get back with a broken bike – a taxi ordered in one case!) so this wasn’t even really enough to keep on top of things.
At that rate I reckon it is £1644 for the maintenance of that bike per year assuming that average maintenance cost is the average.

The start of 2017 has been even worse.

The bike is a Specialized Camber Evo 2015 and it doesn’t even have a dropper post.
I can buy a much better bike than that for less than £1644 (the estimated maintenance costs for the year) what with discounts on previous years models, cycle to work scheme, etc.

I get repairs done by a local mechanic where labour is far, far cheaper than a bike shop.

Is it worth continuing to maintain this bike or sell it? (though I’d get very little for it, as it currently requires approx £300 worth of repairs to get it in ‘good mechanical condition’ according to the local mechanic.

That’s bonkers. What the hell is it getting spent on?

How can the bike need £300 of repairs when you’ve spent so much on it already?

Do you do any maintenance yourself?

The £300 estimate including new pivot bearings, multiple repairs to the braking system, new rear wheel required, new rear mech all immediately while a new chain & new bottom bracket bearing are due to need replacing soon). Also the rear shock needs a service as it hasn’t been done for a while and the fork needs new bushings.

I never do any big repairs myself (only small maintenance tasks like changing pads, chains etc) as I don’t have time , I’d much rather be riding than stuck in the garage

Hmm whats going wrong with it, is it being fixed properly and are you using cheap/rubbish parts?
An XT Groupset with brakes is less than your July to December spends so what is going wrong.

‘good mechanical condition’ according to the local mechanic – including new pivots, multiple repairs to the braking system, new rear wheel, new rear mech all immediately while a new chain & new bottom bracket bearing are due to need replacing soon

Whats wrong with the bakes? Unless you have smashed them are they covered by warranty?
Do you replace chains often enough to avoid trashing the entire drivetrain?
What the hell did you do to the rear wheel and mech?

Singlespeed hardtail FTW!!

Rigid if you think you can take it.

Crazy amount you’re spending!

Whats wrong with the bakes?

Are they Shimano??

It’s not difficult to learn how to do basic maintenance yourself. Plenty instructional videos on youtube and articles on the biking websites. A lot of the manufacturers have downloadable material as well.

Once you have an idea something needs done, do some research on how to swap out parts, a basic set of tools to do run of the mill tasks won’t set you back an awful lot. That will substantially cut back your costs.

I suspect someone is taking advantage of you if you are spending that much that frequently maintaining your bike. Perhaps if you share your location then nearby forum users can recommend somewhere else?

Are they Shimano??

http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/news-and-info/warranty0.html
If they are they are covered by a 2 year warranty so before you get anything done check if they can be sent back.

I live in Hindley and the bike mechanic is 0.5 miles away. I’ve only just moved from Hag Fold so these repairs were mostly done by the mechanic in Hag Fold. But the new mechanic has similar sort of prices so far.

The brakes need repairs, they are Shimano Deores. I’m suffering from contaminated brakes, Apparently the Olive insert is leaking mineral oil all over the pads and discs. The mechanic says it needs a new olive insert, assume re-bleeding, a new rotor (as the contamination is so bad it’s beyond cleaning – apparently) and definitely new pads.
Rear brake just needs new pads as far as I know.

I’ve just added it up again and July – December came to £751! I must have missed something last time.

1st July £52 new discs
7th July basic repairs £5
9th July new freehub body £30 + £25 fitting
31st July £11 new brake pads
1st Aug £31 attempt by mechanic to fix contaminated brakes including new pads
4th Aug £30 forks repairs
14th Aug £15 more forks repairs ciclip had come off
14th Aug £15 brake bleed
19th Sep £4 new spokes
26th Sep £55 replacement headset bearings and wheel trueing & re-nippling some of the corroded spoke nipples
26th Sep £15 new pads
28th Sep £80 full fork service got sick of having constant fork problems despite several repairs done by the Hag Fold mechanic so went to someone else (Rebound Suspension in Horwich) and the problems still came back very soon later (and just had it fixed again by local mechanic for £52 a couple of weeks ago but tha’ts another story altogether).

14th Oct £220 replaced entire drive train and replace bottom bracket
17th Oct another basic £17 repair not recorded what it was
17th Oct £36 new brake bleed kit & mineral oil, funnel – attempting to fix on-going brake problems myself
17th Oct 2x new brake calipers £50 plus new brake lever £20 in attempt to do repairs myself
3rd Nov 2x new tyres £40
Strangely no record of any repairs done for rest of November, December & January, IIRC I was just riding and putting up with the shit performance of the forks and brakes rather than throwing more money away trying to fix them.

Then in early this month I paid £72 for full fork service (had no choice, it had locked up completely), wheel & drive train repairs and got told the bike still needs another £300 spending on it to get it in good condition.

I could possibly get some money back by sending 2x Calipers and 1x Brake lever back to Shimano ?
But I doubt they’d refund me for all the contamination on the brake pads and rotors, and all the brake bleeding jobs that come with changing calipers/levers/olive inserts/, which each time it is done, it’s either a shit job for me or £15 to the mechanic (I prefer the latter option)

Do you replace chains often enough to avoid trashing the entire drivetrain?

Yes I get 3x chains out of it until I replace the cassette and the chain ring. I estimate I’m doing well over 2000 miles until I have to get the lot replaced.

1st July £52 new discs
7th July basic repairs £5
9th July new freehub body £30 + £25 fitting
31st July £11 new brake pads
1st Aug £31 attempt by mechanic to fix contaminated brakes including new pads
4th Aug £30 forks repairs
14th Aug £15 more forks repairs ciclip had come off
14th Aug £15 brake bleed
19th Sep £4 new spokes
26th Sep £55 replacement headset bearings and wheel trueing & re-nippling some of the corroded spoke nipples
26th Sep £15 new pads
28th Sep £80 full fork service got sick of having constant fork problems despite several repairs done by the Hag Fold mechanic so went to someone else (Rebound Suspension in Horwich) and the problems still came back very soon later (and just had it fixed again by local mechanic for £52 a couple of weeks ago but tha’ts another story altogether).

14th Oct £220 replaced entire drive train and replace bottom bracket
17th Oct another basic £17 repair not recorded what it was
17th Oct £36 new brake bleed kit & mineral oil, funnel – attempting to fix on-going brake problems myself
17th Oct 2x new brake calipers £50 plus new brake lever £20 in attempt to do repairs myself
3rd Nov 2x new tyres £40

Right the stuff in bold – if the circlip came off the froks 10 days after they were fixed you don’t pay for that one.
Got to ask how did your spoke nipples get corroded? Get on top of cleaning!! (I had it once after a couple of race stages on a beach but thats been it and lesson learned)
Your fork issues – seem to be chucking cash at people who can’t fix things there – again one of those that probably could have been fixed first time around.
You have new calipers and still have leaking hoses? Suggests they are not fitted properly
Whats trashed the drive train in 4 months?

Right the stuff in bold – if the circlip came off the froks 10 days after they were fixed you don’t pay for that one.
Your fork issues – seem to be chucking cash at people who can’t fix things there – again one of those that probably could have been fixed first time around.

Yes and the mechanic at Hag Fold kept charging for repeat problems which I felt was a rip off because it should have been fixed first time. But I didn’t want to go to Rebound Suspension and pay their much higher prices plus the inevitable 4X trips in the car (1# Drop it off #2 Drive Home #3 Pick it up #4 Drive back home). Anyway I went to them in the end and got more issues earlier this month and the local mechanic at Hindley said that Rebound Suspension did an awful job and said the forks were missing a circlip. He claims now that he has fixed everything on the fork except the Bushings, which will require more money thrown at them if they are to be fixed.

Whats trashed the drive train in 4 months?

The cassete and chain ring is alright. The drive train only needs a new chain as the current one has done 880 miles and is getting near the 1% wear point on the chain checker tool.

The rear mech needs replacing because the current one is bent, not sure what’s caused it but I suspect I was storing the bike in a way that was bad for it for those 4 months only. (this has now been addressed)

Got to ask how did your spoke nipples get corroded? Get on top of cleaning!! (I had it once after a couple of race stages on a beach but thats been it and lesson learned)

The wheels & nipples are still the original from May 2015 so is it not just usage that’s caused it ?

The mechanic says its better to replace the wheel when the nipples get in that state.

Jeez… I bought a second hand Trance over a year ago. I’ve bled the brakes in that time. That’s it. Of course, now I’ve mentioned this the bike will no doubt fall to pieces.

The wheels & nipples are still the original from May 2015 so is it not just usage that’s caused it ?

I have 8-9 year old wheels in the spares that have had a solid life, current wheelset are over 2 years old and never had an issue. You can buy a decent wheel also, is he going to build them for you or just order one? If the rim and hub are decent you don’t need a new wheel just a rebuild.

At this point I’d suggest going to the shop that sorted your fork.

The brake stuff sound like a right mess and should have either been diagnosed as a fault for warranty or with Shimano it’s often cheaper to bin and replace.

I keep my bike in good working order, but this is so complicated on scratching my head at your bad luck. Cheap parts on my Reign have caused more maintenance than previous builds so there is value in buyingvdecent parts – however…corroded nipples? Are they alu? I use brass in my wheel builds and pretty much dont give a famn if they corrode a little. I replace stuff when it breaks – your mechanics seem to be replacing things like aircraft mechanics – replacing before predicted failure – that costs money.

“The mechanic says its better to replace the wheel when the nipples get in that state.”

No way, get decent hubs like Hope or Kings and theyll last a lifetime. Then again my old man has a wheel truing stand.

Your bike mechanic is taking the piss.

Your bike mechanic is taking the piss.

This. You’ve spent waay more than mstomhoward and I have in the same period, and we have 11 bikes between us.

Who is suggesting that work needs doing, you or the mechanic?

Simple, learn to do it yourself or get a bike shop who are trustworthy.

The one you’re using are taking the p in my opinion.

YOu need a better mechanic and a better maintenance routine. I get more than 2000 miles out of a single chain for example

The brakes need repairs, they are Shimano Deores. I’m suffering from contaminated brakes, Apparently the Olive insert is leaking mineral oil all over the pads and discs. The mechanic says it needs a new olive insert, assume re-bleeding, a new rotor (as the contamination is so bad it’s beyond cleaning – apparently)
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That’s a new one. I’ve never had a rotor that can’t simply be wiped off with some solvent.

Suspicious cat, etc…

I get more than 2000 miles out of a single chain for example

That’s not a realistic expectation to be fair. I’m fastidious with cleaning, but 7-800 miles from a chain isn’t unreasonable.

Spesh wheels are infamous for their shit alu nipples, but you don’t need new wheels.

Mechanic is definitely taking the piss. You don’t need new rotors. If the calliper joint is leaking it’s because they fitted it wrong. You replaced the sliders to stop the leaking, for them to say the repair is causing the leaking is just a total piss take.

Find new bike shop. Buy new SLX brakes. Clean rotors.

Maybe post up on STW the next time you have a problem and start saving the pennies 🙂

Definitely shouldn’t be spending that money…

Bike mechanics course. Treat yourself! And if you are spending out on labour, there is an argument to replace rather than repair.

Wow, just, wow. Your mechanic(s), are/have been, taking the pi$$ royally out of you. Its time to buy some decent tools, and get on YouTube…literally every job is on there. Ive been Mountain Biking since 1988…you’ve spent more on mechanics maintenance in a few months than I have in 29 years!! Oh yes, and NEVER pay full RRP, which no doubts your LBS is charging…get on Wiggle or Merlin where most parts are way cheaper and learn to sort things yourself.

Problems with brakes like that are ridiculous, you can buy a new deore brakeset for £80, so why would you pay so much to mend,
do you keep your bike well cleaned and oiled, and check bolts from time to time, that should save you a few quid..

A lot of my local guys charge time, and are quite happy for you to supply the parts.. no point paying double/triple the price

Granny, I live in goose green just down the road. PM me next time you need maintenance work/tutorial.
I charge 8 cans a day 😉

Holy ****! I haven’t spent more than £300 total over 2 years and that includes a back end bearing replacement.

how long until this makes it to the STW facebook list of exciting posts 🙁

OP – are you an estate agent or banker?

Same as others above, some of those repairs and costs seem excessive compared to the parts and difficulty, others just seem inappropriate.

I’d also make another comment about accounting methods. You obviously do decent mileage to know how long chains last, etc., so that says you’ve had a bike for some time. You can’t claim that it has cost you £137/mo if that estimate comes over a relatively short period, when the actual miles and months that led to that failure were before the period. eg: discs and freehub body. They might have lasted 2 years before needing doing, just because they needed doing in that 6mo period doesn’t mean they ‘failed’ in 6mo.

Just making that point for two reasons; 1/ yes, stuff does wear out and it does have a habit of wearing out all at the same time. 2/ put some cash aside each month towards a maintenance bill – if it isn’t needed, all good, if it costs a bit more you’re still not having to suddenly find the total cost, or it might be the right amount.

Oh and 3/ get a HT singlespeed, and learn how to maintain your brakes. I treated mine to a new chain this year, £8, and it might need some new pads in a month or two depending how much it rains.

I’ve spent £69.99 maintaining my Anthem in 2 years, new chain, cassette and pack of 4 brake pads from disco brakes.

Go rigid. Use Deore. Spend on tyres.

x

About £50 last year on maintenance (new chain, some oil and new pads) but I save money by using my old pants for rags.
Maintenance is very easy, doesn’t take much time and can be quite relaxing with some Radio 4 and a couple of beers (it’s better than watching telly).

You’ve spent more on maintenance in 6months than my whole bike cost, and in the 2 years I’ve had it cost me £10 when I chewed the BB trying to remove it using cheap tools, so went to a mechanic. Once.

Get a less complicated bike if you can’t maintain it yourself,a hardtail or SS, learn some spannering.

Get a new mechanic that isn’t taking the piss.

Does seem you are being had. The only way you should be paying that much in ‘maintenance’ is if you use it like me as a blatant excuse for shiny new parts 😆

Hasn’t then Camber Evo got a Reba on it? they’re normally pretty reliable forks. I’d be really surprised if the bushings are worn to replacement in less than a year!

I think since May last year when I built my current bike, I’ve replaced some brake pads!

Take the bike to this guy in Chorley :-

http://www.thebikecabin.com/

He fitted a new drivetrain to my bike [parts supplied by myself]
and an XTR bottom bracket [supplied by the shop] for the grand total of £71

I would ask him what parts are required and ask him to give you a price , if it seems excessive ask him for a fitting only price and pop up to merlin cycles and save a few quid.

OP do you check your bike over before and after a ride and how often do you clean and lube it?
Putting a muddy bike in the shed and pulling it out again for the next ride is going to increase wear massively over a properly cleaned and lubed bike.