Can it be done to non boost hubs? Has anyone done it? I’m thinking of a new bike and I’ve got some carbon wheels I’d like to use…..

Front can be done with this kit.
110x15mm Pro 2/EVO Front Conversion (Converts a 100x15mm) HUB1009-14N

Rear is a little more tricky.

Realistically the rear can’t be done

A case of stripping down the wheels and reusing the rims then. Well, keep the front

I spoke to hope and their boost hub is not even a straight swap for their pro2, so new spokes as well. Bit of a pain when ive got two pair of newish carbon wheels and i wanted to get a frame that now comes with a boost rear !

It’s only 3mm extra offset each side.It won’t make a massive difference to spoke length (unless they are already too short…in which case shame on you) and can be mitigated s little by using longer nipples (ooh err missus).

I spoke to hope and their boost hub is not even a straight swap for their pro2

Or use the adaptor kit with your pro2.

Or use the adaptor kit with your pro2.[/quote]

The adapter kit only does fronts

The adapter kit only does fronts

I know.

singlespeedstu
Front can be done with this kit.
110x15mm Pro 2/EVO Front Conversion (Converts a 100x15mm) HUB1009-14N

Rear is a little more tricky.

Not really up on spoke lengths so when hope said it was unlikely i thought it would of been something they would of looked in to, ie. make the flanges a touch bigger to compensate.

I’m about to transfer a set of Arch EX 29er rims from a Pro 2 to a Pro 2 Boost and the spoke lengths have, indeed, increased. I think the new Pro 4 (out real soon, honest) might have larger flanges.

I still think hope (and everyone else) are missing a trick by not doing 3mm extra endcaps for the rear hub, a 3mm disc spacer and machining a 3mm offset b-link for shimano mechs. It wouldn’t solve the problem for SRAM, but it would potentially help a fair few people!

I think they’d be better off doing a 6mm longer non driveside endcap, 6mm disc spacer with longer bolts then re dish the rear wheel. Drive train stays in the right place and the rim would be more centred between the flanges.

True, but in re-dishing the wheel you’d potentially be running into issues with spokes lengths one side or the other, and you wouldn’t be able to use it in old frames. Keep it central and you don’t have to change the wheel at all.

Just pondering…3mm per side is surely within the deflection of most frames without causing them any trouble? I guess hardtail only, full suspension will be a lot stiffer in the rear end.

Cotic used to build the roadrat with dropouts set at 132.5 on the theory they could flex 2.5mm each way. It was supposed to be OK because it was steel. I’m not sure I’d want to be doing it long term on most frames though, not sure it would do to alignment etc. Almost certainly not a good idea on al.

My VN Amazon has 132.5 dropouts. It’s Ti so works fine. Just means a little extra fiddling when fitting the wheel.

I can’t see how flexing the dropouts out would work with a through axle, it wouldn’t align properly and as far as I’m aware there is no such thing as QR boost.

I thought this was worth sharing since even the front adapters are not an entirely simple job.

Type 25:
– Convert To: Boost Front Wheel Thru Axle (15x110mm)
– Convert From: Front Wheel Thru Axle 15mm (15x100mm)
– Compatibility: Pro 2 / Pro 2 EVO / Pro 4
– Factory Number: HUB1009-14N
Note from the manufacturer: The adapter is only mounted on the right side. The hub wheel will need to be trued so that the hub is centered in the rim and the wheel in the fork.

I spoke to hope and their boost hub is not even a straight swap for their pro2, so new spokes as well.

Thats true but also not true from a complete wheel perspective. The flange diameters and spacing are different, but the effect on the spokes is negligible. I would happily use the same spokes for a Pro 2, Pro 4 and Pro 4 boost rear… assuming the spokes were a good size to start.

I still think hope (and everyone else) are missing a trick by not doing 3mm extra endcaps for the rear hub, a 3mm disc spacer and machining a 3mm offset b-link for shimano mechs. It wouldn’t solve the problem for SRAM, but it would potentially help a fair few people!

In the same spirit of helping after 4 months, Lindarets Boostinator.

Resurrection time…..
I’m assuming the Hope kit puts 10mm on the non-rotor side to avoid having to space the rotor?
Any alternatives which avoid relish of the wheel? Can’t find what I’m after at the Lindarets link above.

There’s an Ebay seller in the states that does spacer kits that fit on both sides of the hub and also a disc spacer so you don’t have to re dish the wheel.
Can’t remember what his name is but it’s something along the line of MTB tools or something like that.

Don’t bother with spacers, it’s messy and not structurally as sound.

Buy a wolftooth boostinator for the rear wheel. Try worldwidecyclery.com

Info here too

Boostinator

I’ve done my rear recently for a new frame. Just need to true the wheel over 3mm to compensate.

Buy a wolftooth boostinator

Great if you’ve got a hope or DT hub.
No use whatsoever if you haven’t.
Also pointless if you don’t want to redish the wheel like boxelder was asking for..

Thanks all. Hope Pro 2 and Pro 2 Evo, Front only.