Hope bolt-in vs bolt-through vs just normal QR rears?

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  • Hope bolt-in vs bolt-through vs just normal QR rears?
  • Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    Just got my Hope Hoops, well pleased so far, but just mulling over the options… The rear can be converted pretty easily to bolt-in or bolt-through to run in standard dropouts, just wondering if it's worth doing (on a Hemlock, currently with older chainstays but will be getting the new version at some point) and if so, which option's generally better? I use a bolt-in "QR" anyway so I'm not too bothered about having a tool-free wheel.

    Hi Northwind,

    Just been looking into this one as well recently and heres what I have found out so far:

    The 10mm bolt thru wont work on my P7 frame as the dropout is 10mm, so the outer edge of the hub that fits into the dropout will be more than 10mm, this has been confirmed by Orange & Hope.

    The 10mm bolt-in I was told, would work as the bolts that tighten up against & through the dropouts are something like 8mm which then has the internal axle of 10mm, again Orange & Hope have said the same thing, BUT, my concern with this option is that the bolts either side of the dropouts grind directly into the dropout and to me anyway looks like it could damage them?

    So I'm toying with just staying with the 9mm QR for now?

    HTHs? 😀

    10mm axle works on 10mm drop outs – just very tight.

    Premier Icon singlespeedstu
    Subscriber

    Neither the bolt up or bolt through are supported by the axle itself.
    The axle sits flush against the inside of the dropout and the 10mm bolts or the 10mm bolt through sit in the dropout.
    Rear dropouts are 10mm front dropouts are 9mm.

    Premier Icon takisawa2
    Subscriber

    my concern with this option is that the bolts either side of the dropouts grind directly into the dropout

    Unless they've changed recently, the bolts have a serrated washer thats free to spin as the bolt is tightened. I've been using them for a while now & they do no more damage than a skewer.
    Mine came on some S/H Pro2 wheels I bought, & when I recieved them they had small radial cracks eminating outwards from the corners of the hex key slots. I replaced the bolts straight away, & the replacements havent cracked. Can only assume they might be succeptible to overtightening.

    @ takisawa2,

    would you say that you notice the difference using the 10mm bolt ups over the 9mm QR? If what you say is still true of the current setup then I may still consider them.

    This is the kit: click me

    Premier Icon singlespeedstu
    Subscriber

    If you're using a 9mm in the rear there's something very wrong…

    Rear dropouts are 10mm fronts are 9mm.

    oh and yes it'll make the back end stiffer with a bolt up or bolt through in there.

    If you're using a 9mm in the rear there's something very wrong…

    Rear dropouts are 10mm fronts are 9mm.

    This may sound silly but arent QRs 9mm? or have I got that wrong?

    What actually makes them stiffer, is it just the internal axle due to the size increase?

    Thanks 😀

    Premier Icon singlespeedstu
    Subscriber

    The QR's themselves are the same diameter front and rear.
    The ends of the axle's are different sizes though.
    9 at the front and 10 at the rear.

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