HiFi question – spikes and wooden floors.

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  • HiFi question – spikes and wooden floors.
  • lodious
    Member

    Linn do something called a skeet, which is probably crazily expensive, but you might be able to use it to google something sensible?

    TiRed
    Member

    Yes, but it will cost you four pence.

    CountZero
    Member

    You could get a set of these, drill a shallow dip into the centre of each, and sit the turntable spikes in the ‘holes’, and hold them in place on the floor with Blu-tac.
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/100-Natural-Black-Granite-Coasters/dp/B004SMSS28

    captmorgan
    Member

    In the old days we’ed use 2p’s with felt underneath them.

    Premier Icon edhornby
    Subscriber

    If the granite boards work stick with it

    For a turntable make a cupboard out of the heaviest dense wood you have and paint it a colour that Mrs rusty won’t complain about

    MDF is popular because it’s cheap and dense because of the glue content, many a home made speaker cab have been constructed out of it

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    ๐Ÿ™‚

    20p’s would do, as they have a raised edge, but I’ve seen some nice wooden floors with coin impressions left on them.

    Suppose I could put felt backing on the coins, but I’d prefer something a bit more, er, elegant?

    Would prefer to keep the Target table as I can level the Rega with the top spikes.

    Have tried one of those little Ikea coffee tables, but it sounds awful.

    Thanks for all the suggestions so far!

    brooess
    Member

    I read somewhere that coins will do the trick nicely so 8p should do the trick ๐Ÿ™‚

    wobbliscott
    Member

    Can’t you unscrew them and turn them round on the un spiked screw end? My old Mission floor slanders did this fir this very reason. I would have thought they’d not be fixed as you don’t want them to rock on a slightly uneven floor so they should be adjustable?

    deadlydarcy
    Member

    Sheet of tempered glass instead of the granite? One with the chamfered/rounded edges…

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    Nah, stands are Mission Stance and removing the spikes leaves an ugly bit of protruding metal.
    Happy with the chopping boards tbh.

    It’s the table I’d like to sort out.

    Off to felt some coins.

    I knew this would cost…..

    Edit – good plan dd – thanks once again for your advice – floor looks ace.

    Premier Icon midlifecrashes
    Subscriber

    Don’t faff with felt, Poundland sells a pack of wood floor protectors, Edwards brand, self adhesive.

    craigxxl
    Member

    2p piece under each spikes works fine. Start a hole with a drill for easy setup

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    Seting up the system after having new flooring fitted.

    Originally tried some small floor protectors from Custom Design.

    They failed almost immediately, with the spikes holing two of the protectors.
    Utter rubbish, going back tomorrow.

    Can’t remove the spikes from the speaker stands, so they’re now on granite chopping boards from T***o and sound better than they ever have.

    Target table for the turntable is a little more problematic.
    I could remove the spikes, tidy up the messy welding at the bottom of each leg and fit rubber/felt pads, which seems to be the most elegant solution.

    Can’t fit a wall shelf, sadly.

    Any other suggestions?

    mrmoofo
    Member

    I’ve always used 2 pieces …
    Unless I want to flash and then I go to 20 pences

    Premier Icon slowoldman
    Subscriber

    Philips headed screws in the floorboards under the spikes. You have to be very accurate putting them though.

    BTW your experience with granite chopping boards ought to tell you something about how worthwhile spikes are.

    daveh
    Member

    Hope you’ve got a nice heavy rug going down otherwise the spikes may not be your biggest problem.

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    slowoldman – Member
    BTW your experience with granite chopping boards ought to tell you something about how worthwhile spikes are.

    Always used them on carpet over floorboard going back, ooooh, 30 years?
    Why? It was the done thing, wasn’t it?
    They seemed to improve the imaging & bass when I first tried spiked stands with a pair of Royd A7’s as a kid, as far as I remember.

    Still have the spikes between the stands and the granite – as above, can’t remove them.
    It’s a floating wooden floor and the granite has tightened up the bass to the extent that even Ms S commented on it.
    Felt pads between granite and floor btw.
    Wish I’d tried it years ago.

    daveh – Member

    Hope you’ve got a nice heavy rug going down otherwise the spikes may not be your biggest problem.

    Go on………. ๐Ÿ™‚

    Premier Icon slowoldman
    Subscriber

    The idea of spikes on carpets is (probably) sound. It links through a wobbly surface of carpet and underlay to a more solid surface beneath. On a solid floor I would think some blobs of Blutack would be just as effective.

    Sadly I do have carpet and my equipment rack has spikes (because that’s how it came). Speakers however are pretty heavy ATCs sitting on pretty heavy subwoofers and no spikes. The spikes added nothing.

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    On a solid floor I would think some blobs of Blutack would be just as effective.

    I’ve never had a chance to try it.

    Read loads of guff on the net re coupling/isolation, but I only ever trust my ears.
    Love to give it a go, but I’m not spending 150 quid on new stands just to try it out. ๐Ÿ™‚

    Premier Icon ransos
    Subscriber

    Remember that coins are directional – always place them heads up, to make the soundstage really come alive.

    Premier Icon somafunk
    Subscriber

    Forget the spikes – not that effective, try sorbothane isolation pods/feet.

    We’ve organised our Dance tent at the Wickerman festival for the past 13 odd years and have had our fair share of isolation problems, especially when you factor in 20,000 watts of Martin or Funktion 1 sound system along with a prefabricated wooden stage set-up, the best product we have found to isolate the multitude of decks and equipment is sorbothane isolation pods.

    The basic early set up with two 1210’s and two CDJ 2000’s

    Craig/Graeme (silicone soul) played with 3 decks and two cdj’s and despite the tent being rammed wi folk going apeshit and a helluva vibration through the ground we never experienced a skip with the decks at all, we do use heavy concrete slabs under essential equipment but they sit on Sorbothane feet and the deck stands also sits on Sorbothane feet.

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    ๐Ÿ˜€

    I’ll be trying some US coins for Steely Dan and have some spare Euros in caser I fancy a little Krafwerk.

    Ever heard of Peter Belt?

    Tuck in.

    somafunk, that is very, very interesting.
    Thanks.

    daveh
    Member

    Room acoustics. I reckon half of a good system is the components, half the room (totally unproven HiFi mumbo jumbo). You may find it sounds ‘brighter’ – could be a good thing though generally reflective surfaces are bad.

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    Ta.

    Will try with and without and see which I prefer.

    mrmoofo
    Member

    BTW , also use a paving slab under the speakers

    Premier Icon somafunk
    Subscriber

    Also what daveh says above – In my sitting/living room i have corner bass traps, various frequency responsive acoustic panels on the walls and acoustic tiles across my ceiling – needless to say i do not have a GF ๐Ÿ˜‰

    dave_rudabar
    Member

    I’ve just bought 2 packs of these rubber floor protectors from Wilkinson to use, if they work ok i’ll colour them black to fit in better:
    http://www.wilko.com/hardware/wilko-rubber-buffers-4pk-075in/invt/0190411
    They’re cheap though so couldn’t possibly be up to the job for a hifi purist ๐Ÿ˜‰

    These might work well instead: http://www.wilko.com/hardware/wilko-furniture-glider-round-4pk-40mm/invt/0344701

    Alternatively, coach bolts screwed in might do, but they might still mark the floor if the stands & speakers are heavy.

    Premier Icon slowoldman
    Subscriber

    Alternatively, coach bolts screwed in might do, but they might still mark the floor if the stands and speakers are heavy.

    Of course a true purist wouldn’t be concerned about marking the floor. They would probably also want a fleet of these:
    Some snake oil bollocks

    oliverd1981
    Member

    I’d and make new legs to screwe in place of the spikes and cover the protuding metal with sufficient diameter to protect the floor. Otherwise I’d cut some lengths of tubing to cover whatever bodge I’d done with a the two pence pieces and blu tack these disguising sleeves in place.

    oliverd1981
    Member

    TBF the “Spike boots” linked from that page are quite an elegant solution to the OP’s problem, provided they match his flooring

    Premier Icon bigjim
    Subscriber

    halved squash balls, because I don’t want to turn my floorboards into extensions of my speakers.

    Premier Icon slowoldman
    Subscriber

    Actually, just a small point. If your spikes aren’t removable, are they adjustable?

    nick1962
    Member

    Speakers with spikes on clayterracota tiles(there what I had leftover from tiling a wall)with blutak underneath focuses the speakers but isolates them from the wooden floor in snakeoil hifi speak.
    I’ve got a hi fi specific stand for my amp and sources with spikes on the legs on a carpet with a solid floor underneath which skips whenever I walk past it so will be doing something similar with that.

    Premier Icon Rusty Spanner
    Subscriber

    slowoldman – Member

    Actually, just a small point. If your spikes aren’t removable, are they adjustable?

    Yep, on adjustable on table and speaker stands.
    Removable on table, with a little tidying up afterwards.

    As I say, happy with the speaker stands now, just the table to sort out.

    Mr Woppit
    Member

    slowoldman – Member
    Philips headed screws in the floorboards under the spikes.

    This.

    Milkie
    Member

    Sorbothane – I use it for the decks, sub and gaming consoles. Works a treat. The sub actually sits on Sorbothane feet then a slab of Granite then another set of Sorbothane feet.

    Ah I remember the daze of bass traps aka books & curtains, I mean acoustic tiles. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Somafunk do you have a twitter feed?

    Premier Icon molgrips
    Subscriber

    I replaced the spikes in mine with bolts of same thread, and felt pads on the bolt heads.

    ericemel
    Member

    I have used Soundcare superspikes before and they work really well

    http://www.soundcare.no/design.htm

    breatheeasy
    Member

    I got a large slab of acrylic from a very nice eBay seller who flame polished the sides for me and it was only a couple of quid. Rubber/sorbathane feet of your choice and it was basically the same as what many sites were selling for ยฃ100.

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