Help! Messing up lockout on Fox 32

Hi all,

I got some Fox 32’s fitted at the LBS.

The lockout wasn’t really doing anything, so I tried to adjust it and now am confounded.

I can see there are two screws, one which nips the cable and one on top.

Can anyone give me clear instructions on how to solve this? I can’t find anything helpful on YouTube.

Thanks!

FM

So it’s currently fully open? When you rotate the top cap by hand, does it lock the fork? I take it you’ve got the grub screw to hold the cable in place.

The lever/twistloc needs to be put into the locked position, drawing wire through. Then you rotate the cap against the spring by hand so that the fork is locked out, then clamp the cable in that position using the grub screw. Then when you hit the button on the remote to unlock, the spring tension snaps it back into the open position.

It’s weird. I think maybe they’ve fitted it in the LBS so that when the lockout is clicked in, there’s not enough cable to take actually lock it on the forks.

Do they not have an inline barrell adjuster?

(PS what a faff these things are, I can see now why people avoid them. Is it possible to remove the whole unit and put a manual remote on??)

Nixie, yes! it does actually – but turning it all the in/out doesn’t seem to make any difference.

What year at the forks, are they open or locked when there’s no cable connected?

What lever are you using?

Are the forks 2 position or 3, the 2 position and 3 position forks require different levers as the 2 position is a 0 / 10mm pull to fully lock, the 3 position are 0/7/17mm pull to give Open / firm / locked, if the lever came with the forks it should be the right one – unless you bought them form Merlin recently and they supply the 2 position lever with 3 position forks!

Here are the instructions on how to do it on the fox help pages, a quick google of “fox lockout lever fitting” brings it up.

Must’ve been half asleep when I wrote my post earlier, why did I think it was Rockshox push to lock?

Basically do the reverse of everything I wrote (or take them back to the shop to get them to sort it.)

looks like they’ve refitted the adjuster knob 180 deg rom where it shoud be. Thecable anchor shoud be pointing forwards when the fork is ‘open’.

as it is, it may still be open, but you’;ll not be able to physically pull enough cable to lock the fork out.

remove the blue knob, reposition it so the grub screw faces forward, attached cable and tension using the inline barrel adjuster on the lockout lever. should work to go from open/mid/lock then.

That ^ . The blue knob is in the wrong position. The cable clamping grub screw should be oriented so that at ‘rest’, the cable does a u-turn round the knob and is clamped at the opposite side. You’ve got nowhere left for it to pull.

If you use the Fox website you can enter the forks serial number and it will give you all the details on the fork including if it’s push to lock or push to unlock. Fox will have a video for fitment/set up. It also depends on the orientation of where the cable enters.

This should help:

https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1029

Martin was essentially right firt time.

Grip damper is a grip damper, there’s no different version for 2pos/3pos..it’s the remote lever that takes care of that.  The link above is for fit4 which is entirely different.

The fork pictured is push to lock

So, start with a new inner as that one’s knackered.

Lever in locked out position, rotate the blue knob CW against its own return spring tension with an Allen key to the locked position..i.e a hard stop

Insert and tighten the grub screw. Doing this first without a cable in place will show you if you have access the the grub screw when in locked position..it may be hidden by, or past the cable port in the housing, in which case you’d need to make alterations

So yes you may have some “clocking” issues and this can sometimes be sorted by lifting the black cable housing directly upwards and rotating it to change its orientation relative to the grub screw (also may alter how much oiter you need). This is a “loosen and lift” job vs unseating the entire blue knob where you can change the blue dials position but this involves a spring and getting it seated/tensioned.

Vid here of the relevant damper and lockout

https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1028

First time for everything I suppose. Fox are push to lock now?

Depends which link you’re referring to BearBack cos the video I’ve linked to is for a Grip damper.

Yep, The link with the fit4 info. First time I tried setting up a grip remote after years with fit4 remotes I got very confused and had to reset my process.

Martin they only added push to unlock as an option in 2018 to provide compatability with brands like orbea I believe.

I’d assume push to lock predates 2006, that was my first remote fork on a the new Spark

I disabled mine by taking the little grub screw out.

Now for the life of me I cant find were that little grub screw screws into.

It’s possible the little grub screw has now gone missing.

Problem solved 😀

Hmm thanks all!

It’s a FOX 32 Rhythm GRIP. I think its an OEM fork.

In the end, I took it back to the LBS and they’ve fixed it.