Headset cups …. Push in by hand …. Okay or ball of fire death?

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  • Headset cups …. Push in by hand …. Okay or ball of fire death?
  • Premier Icon letmetalktomark

    I have an original MK1 Inbred that I’m just mulling over building up using spares?

    I have tried two headsets in the frame and both can be pushed in by hand.

    Once in they have needed taping out so they go in by hand but I cannot remove them by hand.

    Is this the case for a little loctite or should I consider retiring the frame?

    I was planning a fresh powdercoat 😕

    Might one option to be to ask for the HT not to be masked off hoping that the inside of the HT might gain a layey of “packing” paint?


    Premier Icon richmtb

    So how hard are they to get out once they are in?

    So long as the cups are straight and aren’t likely to fall out I can’t see an issue.

    The loaded part of the headset / fork region is mainly the fork steerer.

    If you’ve sufficiently pre-loaded the bearing and tightened the stem properly I don’t see how having less tight then normal headset cups is going to effect anything


    I’d go for some loctite just to be sure – it’s also possible to knurl the cups for a tighter fit.

    Premier Icon roverpig

    What’s the worst that could happen? If they are not a tight enough fit then they will move and eventually destroy the frame, at which point the steering will get a bit wobbly. But they aren’t suddenly going to fail on you. I had a loose cup on an old steel frame, which I shimmed with a bit of kitchen foil 😳 Actually still feels fine a few years later.

    Premier Icon ourmaninthenorth

    I had a loose cup on an old steel frame, which resulted in me flaring the head tube (explained why the h/seat was either loose or too tight to steer). Slightly different sized headset and loctite fixed it.

    Premier Icon njee20

    Punch on the headset cup with a bit of Loctite.

    The worst that can happen:

    The headset cups become loose and rock in the frame causing the steering to go stiff under braking as the steerer tube makes contact with the cups.

    If you get to that stage expect to have to buy a new headset as well as frame as they’ll both be worn. If you’re going to continue to use the frame for now get a headset with as long a press in section as you can find. Dirt jump headsets usually fit that requirement.


    Couple of wraps of ptfe tape should tighten it up enough

    Premier Icon smokey_jo

    FSA Pig headsets are a bit longer than normal and solved my loose cups issue.


    i’ve got a marin frame with the same issue, although a bit worse than yours as i can insert & remove both cups by hand. ridden for more than 2 years (since i got it 2nd hand) without any issues.

    Premier Icon letmetalktomark

    Cheers guys.

    I had posted up an earlier thread after thinking the HT was flared but I don’t “think” that it is.

    @ Ben – I will firstly look for a headset that has a deeper insertion (fnar, fnar) but failing that might you be able to knurl the cups on your fancy knurler (again fnar, fnar)

    Premier Icon brant

    There was an early batch that had that issue. Headtube was a bit out of spec. A problem with Chris King headsets, no problem with FSA Pig’s. Bearing fit fixed it. It’s a sliding fit, not a rattle. All fine really with a bit of help.

    Premier Icon letmetalktomark

    Brant – Thank you.

    I think I will look for an FSA Pig and go from there.

    Which loctite number do I need?

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