Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)
  • Harsh feeling Fox 38?
  • Premier Icon renton
    Free Member

    Ive got a Fox 38 performance elite on my Levo and have set the sag and then followed the fox recommendations for rebound and compression.

    It feels very harsh and occasionally on a big hit I’ve had my hands jolted off the bars?

    Which setting do I need to look at to prevent that happening HSC, LSC or HR, LSR?

    The fork feels very different to the 38 I had on my last bike but that was a cheaper model?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

    EDIT: SAG !!

    Premier Icon honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    Maybe spent a bit more thyme making sure your sage is correct.

    Jokes aside, sounds like more (slower) rebound needed

    Premier Icon renton
    Free Member

    🙂 Good skills lol

    So do I need to make the fork slower to rebound?

    Premier Icon markspark
    Free Member

    A harsh feeling fork could be due to any of the adjustments, so too much or not enough pressure, compression damping not allowing the fork to move, rebound too fast so pushing back or slow so packing down. And that’s before you even take into consideration what the rear is doing to effect the front. As you’ve got all the adjustments you’ve got to spend plenty of time fiddling with it.

    I’d start with both compressions open and play with pressure first. Just remember that changing pressure will also effect rebound speed

    Premier Icon Onzadog
    Free Member

    What’s the bushing clearance like? Can’t remember the last time I checked a fork and didn’t need to do a bit of tweaking.

    Premier Icon joebristol
    Full Member

    I’d have thought hands jolted off bars (assuming it’s as you hit the compression hard) mean you’ve got too much high speed compression damping on there – stopping the fork using as much travel as it could do. It controls high speed piston movements – like landing a drop or jump.

    Lsc is more about diving / bobbing.

    Rebound more likely to cause the fork to pack down over repeated bumps if it’s too slow.

    Whilst it’s Cane Creek – I find this is a useful basic guide to symptoms / what to do to correct them. I think you’ve got too firm a feeling from your description:

    Premier Icon jpacey
    Full Member

    Have you tried the baseline settings from fox? If not it’s a good starting point and I often don’t need to vary much from
    it

    https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/my21/605-00-217_RevA-38-Tuning-Guide.pdf

    Premier Icon pampmyride
    Full Member

    I had this o a 38 too. The lower air side chamber had way too much grease in it. Stripped & clean it. Much better. Upgrading to the posher damper unit really helps. My take is that the fork is over damped as it comes – for a lightish slow rider. Try no compression damp & just a few clicks on rebound. Worth experimenting… I found Fox settings too stiff.

    Premier Icon jpacey
    Full Member

    Sorry just read your post again op

    If the fork is way out despite using fox baseline settings I think I’d be searching for issues rather than tuning damping

    Premier Icon haggis1978
    Full Member

    I was speaking with a bike mechanic up the Golfie the other day and he says all Fox forks are shipped with too much grease in the damper cartridge side. Only needs a slight coating and once removed and wiped off, his and plenty of other forks work as expected. Apparently Fox do this as a precaution because people don’t always stick to the service intervals.

    Premier Icon BearBack
    Free Member

    What’s the bushing clearance like? Can’t remember the last time I checked a fork and didn’t need to do a bit of tweaking.

    Can you explain what you are seeing and what home tweaking you are doing to the fork bushings to adjust the clearance?

    Premier Icon poah
    Free Member

    It feels very harsh and occasionally on a big hit I’ve had my hands jolted off the bars

    what do you mean by harsh?

    If your hands are getting jolted off then you don’t have enough HSR

    Premier Icon mulv1976
    Free Member

    Same as mentioned few times above, it may be too much grease in the air shaft on assembly. My 38 factory was harsh no matter what adjustments I seemed to make, but I noticed loads of grease when I was changing tokens. When I researched it, I found that this may be quite a common issue. I sent it off to tftuned for a service since sods law that the top end model needs a special tool or I would have done it myself. It came back a totally different fork and now feels amazing.

    Interestingly they agreed that for lighter riders, the 2021 38 forks seem over-damped and too stiff. Not so bad with the 36 or heavier riders. Apparently the 2022 models have been altered to not be as ‘spiky’.

    Premier Icon argee
    Full Member

    First thing i do is open up the compression, high and low, you’re on an ebike, unless you’re really wanting to firm it up on small and big hits for a certain reason (bike park stuff) compression isn’t really your friend if you’ve got the right pressure in the forks.

    After that, rebound, low speed first, then high, i tend to do this through the kerb drops, up to 1 metre drops or jumps, to make sure the forks are recovering in time for the next hit.

    As others say, if that’s not sorted it, then it may be time to get them to your LBS or wherever you bought them to check the inners, too much grease, hardened grease, etc can be an issue.

    Premier Icon Onzadog
    Free Member

    What’s the bushing clearance like? Can’t remember the last time I checked a fork and didn’t need to do a bit of tweaking.

    Can you explain what you are seeing and what home tweaking you are doing to the fork bushings to adjust the clearance?

    If I strip the damper and air spring out of the fork as well as the foam rings and garter springs from the seals so all I have left is uppers, lowers and seals (or better still, during a seal change so the seals are out as well), the CSU should drop in under their own weight. Typically, they don’t.

    Most times, the bushings are too tight, and/or out of round. If so, I burnish them with a die 0.07mm greater in diameter than the nominal stanchion diameter. 35.07mm for my Rockshox and 34.07mm for my Fox 34s.

    After enough passes, the CSU will drop in under its own weight and you get a much smoother, more supple fork action.

    Premier Icon singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    OP.
    It’s obvious you need a new bike to solve this problem.😜

    Or just drop the lowers off and check for excess grease in the air side as a cheaper alternative.

    Premier Icon mashr
    Free Member

    If your hands are getting jolted off then you don’t have enough HSR

    Could be either. I guess you’re assuming massive bottom outs? The opposite would be too much damping resulting in spiking (or something close to it) that will also be horrid but well before full travel

    Premier Icon renton
    Free Member

    Could be either. I guess you’re assuming massive bottom outs?

    Not necessarily on bottom outs.

    It tends to happen when I hit a rut or big root.

    Yesterday I fitted a 170mm airshaft and removed two of the 3 volume reducers and give everything a good clean.

    I’ve been up FOD today and it feels loads better. Coped really well with all the roots on freeminers.

    I will give it a few more rides to bed in and go from there.

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