For anyone that grew up around the mountains, Hamish McInnes was a bit of a legend. Never actually met the guy, but heard lots of stories.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-55044054

Another legend gone…

Such a figure I’d have had him three generations ahead of me, not just one and a bit.

For some reason the first story which comes into my mind, which I’m pretty sure was about him but they blur, concerns a doubtless desperate gully climb on the Ben, blocked by a massive cornice at the top which he had to tunnel through to finish the climb, emerging on the summit plateau an apparent 20 feet or so from the edge. Surfacing from hole in the snow in front of a bunch of scouts, he shouted: ” Oi, you laddie! What year is it?”

RIP Hamish. Maybe a testament to his skill, insight (OK and luck) that he died of old age. There will be lots of mountain rescue teams globally who will recognise his passing – surely no individual has made such a contribution to their existence.

First shown in Scotland earlier this year and recently on BBC4

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000hp3m

“Final Ascent: The Legend of Hamish MacInnes”

The legend of Hamish MacInnes began early. At 16 he climbed the Matterhorn, and at 17 he built his first motor car from scratch. He attempted Everest in 1953 with his friend Johnny Cunningham and almost stole the peak before Hillary and Tenzing claimed it. As an explorer, expedition leader and engineer he achieved world fame. As inventor of the all-metal ice axe, author of the International Mountain Rescue Handbook and founder of Glencoe Mountain Rescue, he has been responsible for saving hundreds of lives, perhaps thousands.

However, at the age of 84, his accomplishments could not save him from being institutionalised against his will, suffering from delirium. After a spell in psychogeriatric detainment in a hospital in the Highlands of Scotland, during which he made many escape attempts, he emerged to find his memory had disappeared.

This film tells the story of his life by mirroring his greatest challenge – to recover his memories and rescue himself. He did this by looking at the many thousands of pictures he had taken over the previous 60 years, which were stored in his basement. He was able to look at the many films he had made, both BBC archive and feature films on which he was stunt co-ordinator, such as The Eiger Sanction, Highlander, The Mission and Five Days One Summer. He was able to reabsorb and stimulate his mind using the many books he had written, memoirs of a life spent in the mountains.

The film beautifully mirrors that process, and features testimony from his old friends Sir Michael Palin, Sir Chris Bonington and the American inventor, businessman and environmentalist Yvon Chouinard

Got told off by him twice! Once because he and his pals had to head out and rescue a university group that got themselves benighted on the Aonach Eagach and once because of inappropriate clothing (in his view) walking up Ben Nevis.

Wouldn’t have been a problem but I was sat in the pub for the first one, just happened to be a student from the same uni! Second one, the guy he was moaning about just happened to be stood near us as we were already descending! Tbf, he was dressed in trainers and blowing hard a third of the way up the footpath!

Always had time for a chat though and genuinely seemed to care about keeping people safe.

I think we can apply the oft overused “legend” epithet.

Mountain safety wouldn’t be where it was if not for him. Sad day for his friends, family & the mountaineering community.

Watched Final Ascent recently, worth digging out.

RIP

R.i.p.

My dad and Hamish were rescued from Ravens Gully on the Buachaile after a failed first winter attempt.

Hamish was leading and ended up jammed in place for 8 hours until friends realised they were stuck and got to the top to effect a rescue.

Mentioned briefly in

https://www.heraldscotland.com/news/17376945.hamish-macinnes-final-ascent-tells-incredible-story-scotlands-mountain-man/

My Dad and his mate were “helped down”after being avalanched down from the top of Gardylou Gully when he was 18, my middle name is Hamish.

Hamish was leading and ended up jammed in place for 8 hours until friends realised they were stuck and got to the top to effect a rescue.

I’m sure this is described in the documentary ^^

A legend and RIP but man what a life! For a real period piece try and get a copy of Climb to the Lost World – cracking stuff!

An absolute legend and as said an innovator of so much kit. From my Dads generation when Scottish climbing was a smaller world. Met him twice and was in awe of him. A life well lived; Godspeed man.