This afternoons tinkering:

Fit an old spesh fast track to my new monstercross’ers rear wheel, no problems.

Fit an old WTB Bronson to the front, explode off the rim showering me in atomised sealant.

Fit a WTB nano, cut in the sidewall/bead, so that goes in the bin too.

Fit a Spesh Captain, tyre blows off the rim so hard it breaks a nipple and Im now covered in a slightly thicker layer of latex.

Give up and go to put the first one on the bike so I can at least hang it up again, and its gone flat.

About the only positive I can take from this is at least my spare tyre pile now takes up a bit less space!

Venting over.

Why are you putting the sealant in before seating the tyre?

Setting up tubeless is somewhat binary IME, it’s either dead easy or impossible, even with the same rim/tyre combo.

After a couple of early disasters following the original Stans method of sealant in before fitting second bead, I only add sealant through the valve now and make sure the beads are properly popped before doing so.  Sounds like an entertaining afternoon though!  Any idea what the problem (apart from the torn tyre) was?  Damaged beads?

 Why are you putting the sealant in before seating the tyre?

Seat tyre, pop off one bead, scoop of goop, bead back on, 35psi on the compressor, give it a shake and KABOOOOOOOMMMMMM.

Problem with old tyres is it still takes 30+psi with the sealant as all the old holes still need resealing, starting with 20 leaves you with a flat tyre long before you finish the stans dance.

 Sounds like an entertaining afternoon though!  Any idea what the problem (apart from the torn tyre) was?  Damaged beads?

I think just old tyres and non tubeless rims (not even tubeless ready, DT x470) which don’t have much/any shelf for the bead to sit on.

Yeah, don’t put the sealant in until it’s seated and do so through the valve. It makes life a lot easier.

Seat tyre, remove valve core, add sealant, replace valve core, re-inflate tyre.

I always just leave a section of the tyre popped out and pour the sealant in and never had a problem.  Sometimes when I let all the air out the tyre it pops off the rim I only use tubeless easy tyres thigh bit ust.   Woukd the tyre stay in the rim with ust tyres ?

As above seat tyre, remove valve core and add sealant.

Woukd the tyre stay in the rim with ust tyres ?

I’ve run them with both UST and normal tyres perviously, I think its just a combination of old tyres and rims that were never designed to be tubeless compatible.

I mean would they stay on the rim when deflated ?   I’ve got tubeless ready wheels and tubeless easy tyres but if i let all the air out without sealant in they will pop off the rim.

As above seat tyre, remove valve core and add sealant

Yep, easy peasy.  Setup my non tubeless Durano Plus 25c on tubeless road rims (DT R460 DB) a few weeks ago and took about 10 minutes to have both wheels done and have stayed up since.

The only tubeless wheels I ever had any trouble with were non tubeless rims and non tubeless tyres along with a rubber rim strip.  The other 10 or so sets of tubeless specific rim and tyres have always been as easy as putting on a tyre and tube.  Worth using the right equipment for the job.

The sealant isn’t there for the installation it’s for sorting out small (and not so small) punctures when you are riding. Do the setup right and you don’t need sealant for the tyre to stay seated and inflated, admittedly I don’t get all my installations perfect so I’ll use the sealant as a post install fix. Most current rims seem to work fine, even those not explicitly marked as tubeless ready.

Inflate the tyre to the maximum pressure marked on the casing and everything should pop, and fix, in place.

Anyone used Stans Race Sealant and poured it in through the valve with core out, or is it too thick ?

The sealant isn’t there for the installation it’s for sorting out small (and not so small) punctures when you are riding. Do the setup right and you don’t need sealant for the tyre to stay seated and inflated, admittedly I don’t get all my installations perfect so I’ll use the sealant as a post install fix. Most current rims seem to work fine, even those not explicitly marked as tubeless ready.

Yep, although popping one bead off the rim shouldn’t change anything, the only reason for doing a dry run without sealant is really just to prove its going to work and not be a waste of sealent.

If it goes up once without sealent it’ll go up again.

Inflate the tyre to the maximum pressure marked on the casing and everything should pop, and fix, in place.

With a few caveats,

1) non tubeless tyres frequently dont survive to anywhere near their max pressures (55-60psi for a lot of mtb tyres).  I’ve blown two off the rim today at a smidgen over half the pressure printed on them, and had others blow off in the past. Even had one bead snap entirely in the past.

2) rims often aren’t rated to 60psi.

3) some rim/tyre combinations are explicitly prohibited. Stans IIRC have at various times said never to use schwalbe and WTB tyres on their rims for various reasons like the bead being the wrong shape, or too tight (to the point of failure).

Anyone used Stans Race Sealant and poured it in through the valve with core out, or is it too thick ?

No, but I use OKO which has the consistency of yogurt, ive never tried but just assumed it wouldn’t work.

Anyone used Stans Race Sealant and poured it in through the valve with core out, or is it too thick ?

It’s not noticeably thicker than the standard stuff really.  Works fine through the valve.

I think its just a combination of old tyres and rims that were never designed to be tubeless compatible.

Yep

it could be worse, you could have sold off an old cotic soul as the wheels you had on it wouldnt go tubeless..

i did like that bike, just not the tubed wheels

I just hope your chest isn’t too sore ..they can do marvellous things with cosmetic surgery these days and I’m sure your new nipple will look just as good as the old one …