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  • Ground anchor, chemical fixing?
  • craig24
    Free Member

    Looking to fit a ground anchor to a 5″ concrete shed base. I have the ground anchor and some M10 bolts. I’m assuming I drill the hole, hoover / clean out dust, inject resin, push in bolt?

    Looking at resin fixings and there is quite a few to choose from, any experience / recommendations?

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    For 4 holes I’d be looking at capsules probably.

    What sort of nick is the concrete in? Fischer used to have a good click through guide on their website to end up with the right fixings (resin isn’t necessarily)

    (edit the user facing one seems to be for light DIY type things now)

    singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    Capsules are easier to use.
    Just make sure the holes don’t go through the base of the concretet.

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    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    Fwiw if the concrete is in good condition your best, easiest choice is going to be sheild anchors eg https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m10-x-115mm-5-pack/87759?tc=EA6&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fhc_3EBFghXT1xlEZtR07BOEsndqShXyaFb6DNSByU1k2VO-sYHBehoC5GoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds cheaper, easier and a 115mm m10 isn’t coming out of the ground short of busting the concrete. 1min with a grinder to take the edges off the heads and you’ll make it enough of a pita for anyone that if someone is going to the trouble of removal you wouldn’t be keeping your bikes regardless of what you’d used.

    maycontainnuts
    Full Member

    Looking to fit a ground anchor to a 5″ concrete shed base. I have the ground anchor and some M10 bolts. I’m assuming I drill the hole, hoover / clean out dust, inject resin, push in bolt?

    Yep.

    For M10 you need to drill a 12mm hole – dust is your enemy and you need to get as much out as possible. Hoover should suffice, a little bottle brush type thing is also handy.

    I’d always favour an injected resin over the capsules – this is a personal preference. Capsules require fitment by drill, with an adapter and chisel ends to the bolts to break and mix the resin.

    Injected resin is available in tubes that fit in standard mastic/caulk/silicon guns. Try to get the nozzle down to the bottom of the hole and fill from bottom to top (sounds obvious but very easy to get air pockets in the resin that can make it spongy when you push the bolt in or pop a bit)

    Once hole is 3/4 filled (or there abouts) push the bolt in twisting as you go leaving sufficient thread out the top – longer is always better!

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    Capsules require fitment by drill, with an adapter and chisel ends to the bolts to break and mix the resin.

    Plenty of hammer in options available for a handful of fixings.

    revs1972
    Free Member

    In laymans terms, Resin bolts are designed to have a threaded section sticking up for you to put a nut on to tighten down your item. Trouble is if you put the nut on top , then its easy to unbolt.
    Usually the ground anchors will come with countersunk shield anchor which you install then hammer a ball bearing into the hex socket.
    If the plate on your ground anchor isn’t countersunk then dangeourbrains suggestion of taking the edges off the bolt head is a good one, although with the head sticking up it gives them something to knock / grind off

    craig24
    Free Member

    Thanks, the anchor has holes for countersunk bolts, so the bolts will be flush when fitted. I did consider maybe ball bearings hammered in but don’t see why its needed as you can’t undo the bolts in resin anyway?

    Any suggestions on a decent injectable resin that fits in a mastic gun? There’s such a range and price difference.

    dashed
    Free Member

    Screwfix do some cartridges – used them a few times with no issues.

    mattbee
    Full Member

    Could always use resin bonded anchor sleeves with countersunk bolts.
    Hilti for the anchor sleeves (in whatever size you need). Drill appropriate size and depth hole, make sure you get it as clean and dust free as possible then Fischer resin (something like FIS-V). Fill hole from bottom, withdrawing the nozzle as you pump until around 2/3 full. Then insert the anchor sleeve slowly twisting it slightly as it goes in to remove air pockets. Easier to insert if you put a bolt in the sleeve first but remove it before allowing the resin to cure as if you’ve got any resin in the threads you’re buggered.

    footflaps
    Full Member

    Trouble is if you put the nut on top , then its easy to unbolt.

    Just use shear nuts, the hex head shears off at a pre-set torque, leaving a round cone which is hard to grip to turn.

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    If you’re set on resin

    https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/10mm-hammer-in-capsule/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fnffmf-3-VLu047aY4Ji_xL5IzX9hvkZxNf4RWaf4qt4BHEd7yhakRoCewgQAvD_BwE

    Drill. Clean. Clean again. Clean again to be sure. Insert into hole. Whack bolt down. Leave.

    (bear in mind you can’t load a resin fix until it’s cured, your “you can’t turn it” is [if I understand you] the wrong way round, fixing into resin, let it cure plate onto fixings, tighten nuts down onto fixing, cut fixing and peen for security if required. To do as you intend you’ll need to force the bolts down to hold the plate flush to the floor and weight them whilst the resin cures)

    craig24
    Free Member

    Thanks, this is the method I was going to use –

    Just can’t easily get that specific resin locally and wanted to do the job tomorrow, Toolstation have this which I think is similar – Everbuild Anchorset

    Flaperon
    Full Member

    dust is your enemy and you need to get as much out as possible. Hoover should suffice, a little bottle brush type thing is also handy.

    Use compressed air and for god’s sake wear eye protection. 🙂

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    Use a bottle brush in the holes too.

    If your floor looks like that, shield anchors.

    eyestwice
    Free Member

    Not sure if I’ve missed something? Why do you need resin for concrete instead of standard security anchor bolts with ball bearings?

    Genuinely interested as I’m fitting my ground anchors this week.

    jamiemcf
    Full Member

    As said above with resin (I’ve used Rawl R-Kem and it seems decent, about a tenner from screwfix). I’ve used a lot of Hilti HIT resins at work and they are solid but pricey. (m16 bar pulled at 16kn in fractured masonry)

    Prep is key for eresin, drill hole, blow dust out (or hoover) use hole brush to clean then blow again. resin in anchor in wait to cure, crank that sucker up.

    As also said the nut is easy to remove.

    I have a Pragmasis double doofer and used their expansion bolts.

    TheDTs
    Free Member

    Is sure that resin will be fine OP. We aren’t talking peak structural requirement in this use so use what you can get. Cleaning will be more critical but I think that’s been covered?

    craig24
    Free Member

    Thanks, I’ll make sure it’s hoovered / brushed and hoovered again. I’ll pop to Screwfix and get the Rawl stuff.

    dangeourbrain
    Free Member

    Not sure if I’ve missed something? Why do you need resin for concrete instead of standard security anchor bolts with ball bearings?

    There are a few advantages to resin in use though only 1 is likely to apply here.

    The main advantages of mechanical anchors are speed and lack of sensitivity to dust and contamination and lower cost.

    The main advantages of resin are its suitable for use in broken/cracked/mixed materials. It’s suitable for use much closer to the edges of those materials. It tends to produce a better bond (with proper anchors). Suitable for use in weaker materials which would split when mechanicals are used eg soft brick, breeze block, aerated concrete blocks.

    The only real advantage of resin over mechanical in this sort of application is down to material (you don’t want to fix 20mm from the edge of your slab). If it’s a solid pour concrete like in the video it’s an expensive faffy solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. If it’s cracked, damp, block work etc resin is the right answer.

    WorldClassAccident
    Free Member

    I have just recently fixed many metres of Glass balustrade around our patio an had to use 130mm M10 bolts every 10cm. We used a resin bond from Screwfix which was great but had about a 4 minute useable life before it set solid during the sunny days we were using it. Really good and with muti nozzles provided per tube as we couldn’t use a whole tube before it went off. Will try and find the name in the morning but definitely good stuff

    sturmeyarcher
    Full Member

    I’ve recently fitted one of the Torc anchors (as in the video above). It came with everything needed (drill bit, resin, bolts, bottle brush, ball bearings and caps to close the bolts, even a blow pipe to get the dust out). Dead easy to fit and seems like a great piece of kit. I’m using it with one of their 16mm noose chains.

    sirromj
    Full Member

    Is there a minimum concrete depth for these? 3″ ok?

    eyestwice
    Free Member

    @dangeourbrain Thanks for the explanation, all makes sense 👍

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