Gratuitous "I've just re-built my road bike" Picture Thread

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  • Gratuitous "I've just re-built my road bike" Picture Thread
  • Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    After not really riding it much for quite a while, mainly because I’d ruined it with a few not very well thought out ‘upgrades’ and it’s general worn-out ness making it a chore. I decided it was time to strip the frame and re-build with new consumables, finishing kit and wheels and re-grease/threadlock everything to get it back to it’s silent, squeek free, best.

    Cannondale CAAD4 frame (56cm) and slice fork. Litteraly the only stock bit left 🙂

    Wheels:
    KCNC Ti QR’s
    Sokin (novatech?) 288g hubs,
    24/28 DT revolution spokes,
    brass nipples,
    Stans Alpha 340 rims (de-stickered)
    Continental supersonic tubes
    Schwalbe Ultremo ZX racestar tyres.

    Groupset:
    DA 7800 STI’s and r.mech
    FSA SL-K MegaExo chainset, 36/50
    FSA compact f.mech
    Ultegra 11-23 cassette
    Mavic chain
    Planet-X forged brakes with swisstop pads
    Black SP41 outer
    KCNC inner cables (red)
    Rithey cable adjusters mounted on STI hoods.

    Finishing kit:
    Ritchey WCS C260 stem (110x6deg)
    Ritchey WCS EvoCurve bar (42cm)
    Canyon VCLS seatpost (believe the hype, it’s good)
    Selle Italia C2 saddle
    Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm bar tape.

    Other:
    105 pedals
    CC S3 headset
    Carbon effect seat clamp

    Weight 7.4kg

    Bits i really like:
    7800 was a high point for DA (IMO)
    Seatpost; it really is more comfortable than letting 5psi out of your tyres.
    Chainset; probably placebo, but they feel both stiffer and less harsh than the alloy ones they replaced. And as long as I assemble them with the correct loctite rather than grease they’ve never squeaked.
    Bars; just the right amount of stiffness in the drops, and I really like the shape.
    Cable inners, geeky but KCNC red inners match the red in the letterign perfectly, and the red able ends match the red on the arms of the planet-x brakes, it’s the little bits that matter!

    Bit’s I’d like to change:
    Red chainring bolts
    SLR Flow team edition saddle (white with red bits)
    Fibrelite jockey wheels (pimp!)
    Red alloy bolt kit
    Frame? Maybe, it’s over 1700g if my memory’s correct and the forks are alloy/carbon so changing to something newer would probably drop the whole bike under 6kg. But then I really like the colour, and aside form lacking a little stiffness in the headtube compared to oversized frames it’s perfect.

    footflaps
    Member

    According to Weight Weenies your frame weighs 1205g (frame only, w/out integrated headset).

    I_Ache
    Member

    So you got the right size spokes in the end then?

    According to Garden SOS your weeds weigh 1509g (Excluding dandelions)

    Hey…know what? I like that…it just looks right!

    The only thing I’d query is why you went for a compact chainset rather than a traditional 39/53 or 42/52?

    Actually…forget what I just said…that’s one of very few bikes I see these days which make me think “I want a go on that…”

    Rorschach
    Member

    End of season so Ive just stripped mine.
    Anyone want to buy a 2012 Giant TCR Sl Isp frameset in large (<1000 miles).
    Now Super6 Evo,Ritte or R5 for next year?

    Premier Icon Kuco
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    Like that. Something about older Cannondales that I like.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    According to Weight Weenies your frame weighs 1205g (frame only, w/out integrated headset).

    I’m 99% sure that’s not my frame, I think Cannondale re-use the CAAD numbers, e.g the current CAAD8 isn’t the predecessor to the CAAD9. I’m sure I weighed it and thought ‘bloomin heck that’s a lot’.

    Then again maybe i was adding 1200g+500g (frame and fork) together in my head, in which case you’ve just saved me from spending £1k trying to lose weight!

    The only thing I’d query is why you went for a compact chainset rather than a traditional 39/53 or 42/52?

    Because my house is on a 1in5 hill and it only get’s steeper the further I go round here! When I moved to Reading (currently in the NYMs for work) I thought it would be redundant but actually the 50 means it works really well on the flat and it’s only the difference between 11t and 12t at the back comparing 50 and 53 so I’m only losing 1 gear, so I just never need the inner ring.

    Actually…forget what I just said…that’s one of very few bikes I see these days which make me think “I want a go on that…”

    Thanks, compared to the mish mash most of my bikes end up as I’m actually really please with how this ones looking.

    Premier Icon cynic-al
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    1.7kg frame (IIRC, I had one) and 600gm, you can lose 1.4kg there?

    900gm F&F?

    thomthumb
    Member

    lovely [and i hate cannoondales!]

    36/50 is the superior compact ratio.

    Premier Icon cynic-al
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    folk brag about compact ratios?

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    1.7kg frame (IIRC, I had one) and 600gm, you can lose 1.4kg there?

    900gm F&F?

    It’s going to bug me now unless I strip it an weigh everything again! I thought it was ~1700g, but then WW says 1200g and 1200+500 (ish for a fork) is 1700.

    I meant 900g frame +350g fork (something like a Felt F3/F4)

    jonk
    Member

    That looks really nice that does

    Nice, I’m after a CAAD ‘x’ frame, they seem to hold their value quite well though.

    I rescued my old Colnago frame from my dad’s shed last month. My first proper bike. Rebuilt it with some horribly un-period Veloce 10v & Ksyriums.. only original stuff is Shimano 600 chainset (will go as soon as I find the crank puller) and Athena aero seat pin.

    At 9.2kg & 42×23 it is poorly suited to its new home in the Basque Country.

    Premier Icon cp
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    Seem to remember you mentioned the wheels previously, are you still enjoying them? Wish they were something different or you happy?

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    42×23

    Carefull now, you’ll have the “compacts are for men who aren’t real men” brigade going into heat.

    Premier Icon kayak23
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    Your doors look like they’ve dropped quite substantially judging by the gap present at the bottom. They also look to be drawing significant moisture from the ground, evidenced by the flaking paint.

    I’m sure the degree to which you’ve allowed weed and grass to propagate between the flag stones must be in part attributable to this moisture-ingress.

    I’d get that sorted quick smart if I were you.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    Seem to remember you mentioned the wheels previously, are you still enjoying them? Wish they were something different or you happy?

    Mehhhhh,

    They were a bit of an anti climax. Yes they weigh f*** all. But they still feel sluggish. Could be that they’re less aero than the shimanos they replaced, or could be the tension. I’m going to ride them a bit longer then have another look at the tension as I reckon that once they’ve bedded in a bit I might be able to even them out a bit. The rims didn’t take the tension very well during building, getting even tension resulted in their being all over the shop true-ness wise, trueing them sent the tension to pot. I guess this might be the price to pay for light rims as I’ve never had MTB wheels be that far out during a build.

    But then they are 500g lighter than anything off the shelf for £200. So if I was doing it again the first thing I’d change would be aero spokes and maybe look for some stiffer but heavier rims like the stans alpha 400.

    Your doors look like they’ve dropped quite substantially judging by the gap present at the bottom. They also look to be drawing significant moisture from the ground, evidenced by the flaking paint.

    I’m sure the degree to which you’ve allowed weed and grass to propagate between the flag stones must be in part attributable to this moisture-ingress.

    I’d get that sorted quick smart if I were you.

    Indeed,
    a) you should see the rest of the ‘garage’
    b) handed my notice in today so it’s the landlords problem.

    TiRed
    Member

    Lovely bike. I think there is a real place for vintage frames with new kit. But….
    Please put a nice period Flite TI on that dale. Another 5psi. See bob’s cool ago for effect. And you can buy a new one as they are back!

    Looks awesome. Some Dura Ace 7800 cranks, a yellow SLR and some yellow bar tape would make it looker better though.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    Looks awesome. Some Dura Ace 7800 cranks, a yellow SLR and some yellow bar tape would make it looker better though.

    I’ve had yellow tape before and it’s too much. I think it’s because there’s black forks, cranks, wheels, there needs to be black near the top too, so the black saddle and bars balance it.

    I think there is a real place for vintage frames with new kit.

    Vintage? It’s 2004 not 1904! Unlike that Colnago which is properly good looking.

    I’m going to ride them a bit longer then have another look at the tension as I reckon that once they’ve bedded in a bit I might be able to even them out a bit.

    I got bored and re-built the rear and it came upto tension much better this time. Maybe there’s a knack to building with Rev’s, maybe the spokes have stretched a little, or maybe the rims dome likewise. Either way the tensions much closer this time. I’ll report back after a few rides.

    Premier Icon turboferret
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    TINAS,

    You’ve upset me with your critique of your new wheels 🙁

    I’ve been super busy since getting back to India so haven’t had time to tension mine since lacing them up a few weeks ago, so now I can look forward to freshly built sluggish wheels 😥

    Ho hum, let’s hope I’m not as disappointed as you, although mine haven’t been quite so much of a rigmarole!

    Nice looking bike by the way 🙂

    Cheers, Rich

    oldgit
    Member

    Nice dale. If I didn’t get a deal on Giants, it would be a Dale every time.

    bob summers, that 600 stuff never dies I’m still riding my 1986 stuff.

    Oldgit, my 600 group is from 96 and still looks and works like new. My car is the same age and everything in it is broken or wobbly… Go figure!

    Premier Icon cynic-al
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    thisisnotaspoon – Member

    They were a bit of an anti climax. Yes they weigh f*** all. But they still feel sluggish. Could be that they’re less aero than the shimanos they replaced, or could be the tension. I’m going to ride them a bit longer then have another look at the tension as I reckon that once they’ve bedded in a bit I might be able to even them out a bit. The rims didn’t take the tension very well during building, getting even tension resulted in their being all over the shop true-ness wise, trueing them sent the tension to pot. I guess this might be the price to pay for light rims as I’ve never had MTB wheels be that far out during a build.

    But then they are 500g lighter than anything off the shelf for £200. So if I was doing it again the first thing I’d change would be aero spokes and maybe look for some stiffer but heavier rims like the stans alpha 400.

    THis is in your head IMO. Mine (24/32H) feel great, although the rims do seem a bit fragile. I can’t see how aero spokes would make them less slugish, though non UST tyres migft, which is what you are using IIRC?

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
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    Ultremo ZX and supersonic tubes, no idea how much better tubeless is, but I’m comparing against my old Shaimnano R-550 and schwalbe blizzards so if thy feel odd they must be!

    I’ve just re-built them and they came together much better this time. the tension still varies by as much as 30% on the NDS but they’ve all got enough that I’m confident they’re doing a job. Maybe the spokes or rim have bedded in a bit, or maybe I just had more patience and wound the tension on slower.

    I’ll go ride at some point and report back.

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