Going from 3×9 to 2×9

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  • Going from 3×9 to 2×9
  • TandemJeremy
    Member

    Would it just be a question of setting the high stop on the front mech so that it can’t shift any further than the current middle ring?

    Yes

    ryreed
    Member

    As said above…you’re on the right track. You may also want to consider removing a few links from your chain now that you won’t need the length for the big ring?

    Premier Icon soundninjauk
    Subscriber

    As said above…you’re on the right track. You may also want to consider removing a few links from your chain now that you won’t need the length for the big ring?

    Yup, that makes sense. So will make the adjustment to the high stop mean that the front shifter will only go one click each way rather than two?

    cycl1ngjb
    Member

    Depending on which bash guard you fit you may need new chainring bolts

    If it’s a metal bash, then you can sometimes use the existing bolts

    If it’s polycarbonate (plastic) then you usually need longer chainring bolts

    The only other thing you may want to do is (once your current chainrings have worn out) go for a higher tooth count on your middle ring

    I went up from 32 tooth to 36 tooth when I did the same as you’re considering, which helped with the loss of the big ring gears

    Premier Icon soundninjauk
    Subscriber

    Probably noob question here, but I’d like to be sure of things before I start buying the wrong bits.

    My bike has a 2006 XT drivetrain with 2006 Race Face Evolve XC cranks/chainrings on it, and I’m considering taking the large chainring off and replacing it with a bash guard as I use it basically never. How easy will this be?

    The main obstacle in my mind is setting the front shifter/mech so that I can’t try and shift into the bash ring. I know some newer shifters have a switch on them to flip from 2x to 3x, but I can’t see one on mine and I suspect it’s too old. The window on the handlebars also has 3 obvious sections.

    Would it just be a question of setting the high stop on the front mech so that it can’t shift any further than the current middle ring? Or is it more complicated than that?

    Thanks in advance.

    Premier Icon Johnny Panic
    Subscriber

    As well as considering upping the middle ring size to a 36T you may also want to consider gettiing a steel Deore one. Reasonably cheap & lasts longer. Also a chain guide like the Stinger

    Premier Icon soundninjauk
    Subscriber

    I was wondering whether a chain guide would be overkill. It’s an Orange P7 with a Hope BB, it doesn’t have any chain guide tabs on it and dropping the chain on the front is a pretty rare occurrence. On the other hand, if it makes it look better then I’m mostly sold on it.

    Good call on upping the tooth count on the middle ring, although to be honest I’m so rarely in need of gears higher than what’s currently on the middle ring that I’m not sure it’s necessary (hence the bash guard in the first place!).

    I was considering the Hope guard (not sure on size yet, haven’t counted the teeth on the largest chainring), any idea on whether I’d need new chainring bolts?

    Premier Icon Johnny Panic
    Subscriber

    Get a BB mounted chain guide and it doesn’t require tabs, it just replaces one of the BB spacers on the drive side.

    ryreed
    Member

    “Yup, that makes sense. So will make the adjustment to the high stop mean that the front shifter will only go one click each way rather than two?”

    Yep, if you try to shift in to the big ring/bash guard you’ll just get resistance through the shifter…you’ll not ever do that though after a ride or two.

    My AnthemX is like this. Bash/36/22 at the front. The 36 is a steel Deore ring. Mech is adjusted appropriately. Winner.

    Premier Icon soundninjauk
    Subscriber

    Ok, sounds great so far. Final question, what size bash to go for given that it’s currently a 44/32/22 triple? The one I’m looking at comes in 3 sizes, 32t – 34t, 36 – 38t and 40t. I’m thinking that 36t – 38t would be the most sensible as it’ll let me change up my middle ring from a 32 to a 36 steel Deore when it wears out.

    steve_b77
    Member

    Sounds right if you’re planning on fitting a bigger ring later

    mudmonster
    Member

    I ended up taking off my bash ring as as I’ve only managed to get a rock to hit it twice. Saves a bit of weight and I can clean the outside of my chainring now.

    freeagent
    Member

    I’ve got an SLX 22/36/bash chainset on my Boardman, only thing we had to do was wind the stops in on the front mech so you can’t change up onto the bash ring…
    The bash ring has a few scuffs and scrapes out of it, so it must be working!

    Premier Icon Johnny Panic
    Subscriber

    I ended up taking off my bash ring as as I’ve only managed to get a rock to hit it twice. Saves a bit of weight and I can clean the outside of my chainring now.

    Bash ring also guards against ‘toothing’ yourself on the calf during mishaps 😀

    cycl1ngjb
    Member

    I think there’s a fair chance you’ll be able to get away with the existing chainring bolts for the Hope bash

    I have a Truvativ Rockguard on one of my bikes & a E13 Supercharger on the other

    Both are Polycarb/Plastic & did require longer bolts

    I did briefly have a Race Face metal bash which I think used the standard size bolts

    I only switched as I prefer the plastic/polycarb bash guards

    I’m also running one of the Blackspire Stingers on one of my bikes & this has been a good buy

    Premier Icon soundninjauk
    Subscriber

    One of the reasons I’m going for this is to reduce the chance of a tooth/leg interface.

    I’m also not really however the most gnarrrr/airtime is king type of rider, so will probably start without the Blackspire and see how I go. The rear mech is only long cage rather than super long cage or whatever anyway to start off with, so I’ve not got yards of chain flapping around back there.

    Cheers for the advice, I’ll grab a bash once I’ve been paid and then see how I go!

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