agree with cynic-al there, whenever i need to tweak the wheels a bit i keep em in frame and just sellotape a small allen key or bit of card or anything really to the chainstays and move them closer to the rim as required when trueing.
I too am a yorkshireman and loath paying for LBS work when its pretty much common sense to do it yourself.Posted 3 years agoscruff9252Member
I Built a front wheel using the forks and my thumb against the stantions as a guide. Ended up with with a wheel less than 2mm wobble, which after tyre is on is unnoticeable. and I haven’t died yet.
I thanks your over thinking the complexity of wheel building. Its a piece of cake.Posted 3 years agoBrother_WillSubscriberMary HingeMember
I built my first set using frame and forks.
To ensure that the rim is central, when it is “nearly there” leave the pencil/pointer thing where it is and flip the wheel over I.e. disc on non disc side etc and see if the gap to the pointer is still the same. This saves messing around with dishing tools etc. Doubtless there are some frames and forks that aren’t symmetrical but most are and this worked for me perfectly.
I then made my own wheel jig from some 25 mm and 50 mm steel angle iron and that works perfectly, and is adjustable for different axle spacings, and the wheel flip technique ensures perfect wheels.Posted 3 years agomattsccmMember
Slinging the spokes in is best done on your lap whilst watching the Milan- San Remo tomorrow. You can get them dead near in the frame. Must admit I some time cheat and take them to the local wheel guru to tension and get any awkward mm wobbles out. At a fiver a wheel its good value and about a quid a minute for him.Posted 3 years ago
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