getting a full suss frame ready for powder coating????
I would suggest maybe get the frame back to turner for a rebuildPosted 4 years ago
The Turner Rebuild Program includes re-powder coating the main frame and rear, complete pivot rebuild kit installed, new down tube decals and a stainless head badge.bencooperMember
Grease nipples normally unscrew. A decent powdercoater will mask off threads and bearing surfaces. Don’t use anything plastic, it’ll melt into a sticky mess.
And take the bearings out of course – I recently had a horrible time sorting a frame that someone had had powdercoated with the bearings in.Posted 4 years ago
I’m going to get my frame repowdercoated but o have a few questions about getting it ready.
My frame is a five spot and has these little grease nipples fitted, what do I do aboit them?
Can I fit an old bottom bracket to stop the threads getting gunked up? If so how do I remove it afterwards without damaging the powder coat around it?
Can I fit a set of old plastic bushes I have and then use a scalpel or something to remove them?
What about the seat tube a d headtube?
If anyone has any tips for me that would be great.
StevePosted 4 years agocrofts2007Member
I would make sure the bearings/bushes are out as they will probably melt and then need replacing.Posted 4 years ago
Also the bush housing needs masking as if it gets powdercoated it will mess up the loading/friction of the pivots. (i.e. more friction as they will be a tighter fit.)
Hi Renton,agree with Ben, the powder coaters normally use a high temp blue masking tape. How old is your frame? My 2010 Turner has grease nipples that screw in, some earlier ones are push fit. If there is a slot in its a clue. They And all the plastic bushes MUST come out before powder coating. The heat will melt the grease which will contaminate the finish. The bottom bracket,headtube,seat tube and all the bush faces (frame and swingarm) need masking. The shock mount areas are Ok without. The colour is up to you, wanted a light blue on mine but they didn’t have it so went for yellow which looks sweet. Thought about new decals? If I had it done again I think I would have it clear lacquered as well. Can Email you some pics if you want 🙂 if you want any more help give me a shoutPosted 4 years agomactheknifeSubscriber
Renton, have a chat with whoever is doing the powdercoating, Let them know that the tolerances where the bushings go are extremely tight. They will do what needs to be done.
Oh and post some pics up when its done please, im thinking about doing mine as well. I was gonna get a new 5 spot frame but for now they have stopped production. So a respray is a good option.
Oh and stealth black is the way ahead 🙂Posted 4 years agoandysredminiMember
I just had my frame powder coated again by the company I normally use but unfortunately the bloke who usually does it was on holiday. Normally he wipes the powder from the threads, headset and bearing faces before it goes in the over. This time pretty much everything is powder coated and rebuilding has been a pain. I have had to have the bottom bracket threads chased out twice (not chased deep enough the first time) and have had to tap/clean all the other threads and clean out the headset faces. The first time I took a frame for powder coating I masked all the threads etc. but the painter said not to bother as it would burn in the oven. He said he just wipes it out with his finger before cooking.
In short make sure they don’t get powder coat anywhere you don’t want it.
AndyPosted 4 years agoFarticusSubscriber
My old XCE front triangle is at Triple S now, and my 5 Spot was painted by Argos a few years back – both have the older press fit zerks.
Strip it down, including plastic hats. Tell them what to cover, but they can pretty much tell anyway. i’ve sent them a couple of replacement zerks as the old ones will come out anyway. If they’ve done bikes before they’ll know what they’re doing.Posted 4 years ago
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