- Gear Gurus
Looking at a new bike and I have a choice of 1×11 or 2×10.
Not ever having ridden a 1×11 I was thinking I would miss some of the ratios and it may feel like a real effort.
The 1×11 is a 10-32 rear and 32T front while the 2×10 is 11-36 rear and 22/36 front.
I am sure bike manufacturers have thought this through just a little concerned it will be a big and noticeable difference.Posted 4 years ago
10-42 you mean. You can’t get a 10-32.
You will lose a bit off both ends. About 1.5 gears off the bottom end and 0.5 gears off the top end.
You can change this by playing with chainrings – a 28 would give you the same bottom gear as the 2×10, by trading off the top end slightly.
If you need the entire range of the 2×10 it’s probably not for you. What do you run currently?Posted 4 years ago
Conan257 – Member
That’s a massive difference between 1×11 and 2×10 if it’s the same bike…
Is there? The ranges are very close – just there’s 22/20 steps on 2×11/2×10 versus 11.
Shimano 28 x 38 tooth chain rings: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections)
SRAM 30 tooth chain ring: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections)
You lose a small amount of range, sure – but you can adjust chainring size to minimise that – as for the smaller steps, a lot of those steps overlap or are very close together – if you’re the type of rider that’s riding long distance and value maintaining cadence with small steps in gear change, then 2x is probably of value. If you’re more the winch up and plummet down, then 1×11 with a suitably sized form chainring is lighter, quieter and cleaner.Posted 4 years ago
njee20 – Member
The OP mistyped and said a 10-32 cassette on the 1×11 though, which would
seriously compromise the range.
I assumed he meant 10-42, although I’ve got no doust someone from SRAM’s marketing department will have a eureka moment and begin eulogising the benefits of the narrow-range 11-speed XD cassette.Posted 4 years agopingu66Member
Sorry it was a typo it should be 11-42 on the 1×11.
I struggle a great deal in the really low ratios as its spinning out and real low speed balance. Currently ride a 2×10 and I agree there is a lot of overlap in there sometimes finding the right gear but I usually just ride on the smaller ring anyway rarely engaging the lowest ratio possible.Posted 4 years agowhitestoneMember
Here we go again 😀
Generally 1x systems are less faff, there’s still some faff but just not as much.
You’ll lose some weight from the bike but not a lot, probably around 500g
You’ll lose some of the range of a 2x or 3x setup, where you lose that range depends on what chain ring you fit so you can choose to keep the low ratios but potentially spin out at the top end or accept you’ll have to get off and walk on steeper hills but be OK at higher speeds or split the difference and lose a bit at either end.
You don’t lose as many ratios as you might think – as someone else has said there’s a lot of duplication or near duplication in 2x & 3x setups. With a 1x it’s simple: when it gets harder to pedal go down a gear; when it gets easier go up one. There’s no “I’ll change chain ring so now I have to move the derailleur as well”
With a NW chainring and a clutch mech you are unlikely to have your chain drop off, it might happen but in a year and nearly 3000Km of riding it hasn’t yet happened to me.
I went the 11-36 cassette with 40T extender. I don’t notice the loss of the 17T to make way for the 40T as the gap between 19 & 15 is about the point where I go from climbing mode to speed mode but I know someone who does notice it. (with a dedicated 1×11 cassette you won’t have this problem)
It’s not for everyone.
It takes a little while to get used to.
Personally I like it and doubt that I’d go back to a 2x or 2x setup.Posted 4 years ago
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