Does anyone have any experience of applying the 2 pack epoxy stuff. Is is worth the extra hassle over ‘normal’ paint ? Ta

Not exactly, I did paint mine with Garage Floor paint years ago. I pained it on a concrete floor, now I realise I probably should have sealed the floor with something first, then painted it. As a few years later its coming off.

I used the one-part Leyland stuff in my garage, worked fine (only prep was wire brushing anything loose and hoovering up all the dust) but it does need to be fairly warm to dry in a sensible time.

This guy just did his with floorsaver epoxy, quite a bit cheaper than others I’d looked at before and a decent finish.

Is is worth the extra hassle over ‘normal’ paint ?

I’ve only used the normal paint, at my old place. I doubt the 2-part is worth any extra hassle unless you’re actually going to be servicing cars in there, rather than just wanting an easily-brushable floor for keeping your bikes boat trailer on.

Ive just started the process of using the two pack paint.

I had the old leyland floor paint down and while it looked great to begin with it started to loosen and deteriorate quite soon after. I probably should have done more prep than i did before applying it.

I got paint from regal paints, seemed quite reasonable compared to some.

Did loads of cleaning of the old floor, and tried to go over the whole thing with a wire hand brush.

It has the under sealer on it, I was expecting it to cure quickly but think the slab temperature was too low so its taken a few days to cure with a heater on most of the day.

Hoping to get the first coat of paint later today.

I think with hindsight I might have used a floor scrubber to remove more of the old paint and I would wait for a few days of warm temperatures before starting.

Depending on the current condition/make up of the floor you might need to do different prep, but thats probably the same for the one pack or two pack.

Im going to apply two coats of paint and hoping that it leaves me with the hard finish that will take a bit of wear.

It stinks though, I had neighbours coming down to see what I was doing, i imagined it being like the old bisto TV adverts 🙂

Did ours with Ronseal garage floor paint just under 10 years ago. Sealed the concrete first with a sealant.
Its had a car in and out on a daily basis along with numerous spillages on it. Still looks as good as new.

when I looked at epoxying it said to do it on an unsealed concrete floor. Unfortunately I’d already sealed mine with PVC and painted so no joy, but to be fair it looks horrendously slippery. Painted is slippery enough when wet…think I might go over it again but mix in some course sand to give it some texture.

I looked at both but used Ronseal’s single part paint. It’s not as tough- it chips pretty easily- but it’s much easier to repair which balances that out. There’s some stuff that’ll damage any floor paint so it’s nice to be able to just patch it in seconds with a brush. I’d do the same if I was redoing it today.

I painted mine, it looked rubbish because I’m an impatient sod and probably didn’t clean up enough.

Have got plastic tiles now, much nicer.

Have got plastic tiles now, much nicer.

yeah, did my garage floor recently. Weighed up the options, considered doing a proper job (prep, levelling, painting etc) then decided that was far too much effort and bought some PVC tiles. Not cheap, but look great and was done in a day (including clearing all the crap out and then putting it back!!)

A 2k may not be necessary if you are going to subjecting it to light duty. In any case if it lifts or peels this is more likely to be to the substrate than the paint.

2k will be more expensive I guess. It is a little more difficult to use but nothing that should cause bother.

Key is always going to be substrate prep and application temperature regardless of product. Find the application instructions and read them! If concrete it will certainly need cleaning but may also need a primer.

A concrete floor is a massive heat sink. Paint drying and curing is very temperature dependent. Not only does the air need to be warm enough, so does the floor. I’d not be painting unless it was more than 10C. It should cure at that temperature but may take an age to dry. I’m guessing the 1ks don’t rely purely on solvent evaporation to dry and there is some cute so temperature will also be important.

Painting concrete is one area where water based can often be better than solvent based. Not all 2ks are equal either. In fact neither are 1ks. A good 1k may be the best for your needs and do better than a bargain basement epoxy alternative.

Likely they are all hazardous. 2k maybe slightly more so due to the amine curing agent. Area needs to be well ventilated and you should wear PPE. Info will be on the tin.

I did 2 coats of Screwfix no nonsense stuff and it’s OK. The proper epoxy is great if for heavy use like an engineering workshop or something. Overkill for home, if you ask me.

Thanks all.