- Fully rigid
Big volume tubless run at low pressures tyres help immenseley.As do 29″ wheels.Good line choice is a necissity not an option.It takes a while to re-learn the technique of riding rigid..after 5 years of it riding with suspension feels SO wrong!There is some terrain that while rideable is just plain hard work.Posted 6 years ago
Me too, want a super light rigid for XC and commute, here’s my post:Posted 6 years agobigyinnMember
This is quite fun to ride. Can get a bit hard going with the on-one cro-mo forks, but it climbs really well.Posted 6 years ago
I’ve upgraded the brakes to M595s with 203/180mm discs, but the rest is as shown.
Plus I can JUST about squeeze my Float RLC’s on there too. Considering doing some of the SDW with them on it and some light / fast tyres on it.
Works significantly better on a 29er.
Failing that, IMO (from experimenting different set-ups), order of importance:
Wide carbon bars.
Thick grips. (Eg:LizardSkins NorthShore).
Non-O/S dia stem & bars.
If running a 26″ frame, try a 29er fork. For me, it did improve things till the 29er came along. I felt I had a lot of weight on my hands, even with a high rise stem. Running it as 69er didnt make much difference tbh.Posted 6 years ago
Thats said, I’m not daft enough to think that a rigid fork will work everywhere, so sourcing a sus fork for the odd day out in Wales etc.speaker2animalsSubscriber
Horses for courses? At one time we all rode rigid. For the majority of my riding my SS rigid (Pace RC30) Voodoo Wanga is fine. Am thinking of a return to gears and maybe a sus fork for occaisional fitting. Eventually I hope to have a geared HT alongside my SS rigid Wanga.Posted 6 years ago
rewski – Member
Probably a bit of a dumb question but…
…how easy is it to swap forks over, I’d like to alternate on a regular basis.
To some extent it will depend on your headset (particularly the crown race) but usually it’s very easy – takes about 5 mins for me. If you’re going to do it, try to get a headset with a split crownrace as they’re easy to take off the fork. Otherwise, get a second crownrace for the other fork or finally, you can actually cut a slot in most crown races without affecting the way they work.
– undo brake caliper from fork (assuming you’re using disc brakes)
– undo stem and take off
– take fork out (should just slide out)
– swap crown race over (as necessary)
– put other fork into frame
– reattach stem
– reattach brake caliper
For me, rigid = good for winter but I much prefer the bike with suspension forks as soon as things dry out.Posted 6 years agoloddrikMember
You’re not doing yourself any favours posting that next to a picture of llandegla of all places . You’ll be ok soon as they’re ‘tarmac’ing’ the section you can see as we speak!!
Was at Llandegla because it’s the smoothest place to ride up these ways, tried other places but there was no pleasure to be had. I sold it a week after the photo was taken…Posted 6 years agorobgarriochSubscriber
Got a carbon fork last year for another bike, ended up swapping it with the Reba-Races on my HT for a few winter rides
Really enjoyed the more considered approach needed, instead of just battering through everything. Also surprised me how much I rely on pre-loading the sus-fork before manualling. Have stayed off the proper rough stuff with it but do most of the usual bits round the Pentlands, just a little slower.
And Rewski, if I can swap forks over without immediate fatal fail, anyone can!Posted 6 years agodoof_doofMember
Rigid is an ace way of making those “easy” trails that you’ve effectively ironed smooth with a suspension into something fun again
Zactly. In a similar way that night riding makes the same old loops different/interesting, rigid freshens things up. And it’s great for winter too.Posted 6 years ago
+1 for stuffing the biggest front tyre you can fit on and runnign the lowest pressure you can get away with.IvanDobskiMember
I’ve had 2, an io and a love/hate both singlespeeds. I’ve used them all around the lakes, peaks and dales and I’m not a brilliant rider by any means so they’re not just for easy terrain. They’re actually a lot easier to ride off road than most people seem to think.
Buy a cheapish one 2nd hand to see if you like it, you’d prob not lose much, if anything; if you sold it on.Posted 6 years agotakisawa2Subscriber
A couple of years ago I had a spare fork with crown race, bar, stem, grips & front brake attached. A split clamp rear brake made swapping a doddle. I picked up a front wheel eventually & used to leave the stem clamped to the forks. The kids used to push it around the garden pretending.Posted 6 years agojamesoSubscriber
I started out on rigid and i’ve never been totally convinced by adding tech to my bike – seems that you add ability, add expense, add maintenance needs, add down-time – but don’t always add fun.
I’m happy on 2.2 / 2.4 rubber queens up front, on a rigid cr-mo fork and a ti frame. 26″. I like it enough to have stuck with it for 80% of my MTB riding and spent more on a new rigid bike fairly recently than any other bike i’v eever owned – because when there’s nothing to service or get outdated, it’s better long term VFM.
Rigid makes normal XC fun again. It made me stop looking for tech to ride my susser on – i had micro-tech on my doorstep if i rode rigid on rooty but basically mellow xc trails. fun, involving and challenging where before it was ‘i miss the alps’ all the time.
Try it – it’s not for everyone on every trail, but if you start to like it you’ll be glad you gave it a go.Posted 6 years ago
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