Full lengh vs interupted cables outers
I never did understand why an exposed cable inner under the bottom bracket through a plastic guide fell out of favour. There was nothing to clog and the movement of the cable cleared out and dirt.
I find the best answer is gore cables. They give the low/no maintenance of a full run but without the (minimal) weight penalty and because they use shorter sections of housing (compared to a full run) the shifting is crisper.Posted 7 years agoPJayMember
My last 2 bikes have had full length cable outers, although I never really thought much about it. My new frame has guides for interupted outers (not sure if that's the right term) leaving exposed runs of cable (it's not a problem and fortuitously the XTR cable kit I bought isn't full length) but since different manufactuers vary in what they provide I assume that there are pros and cons to both systems. Genesis bikes for example route the exposed cable down the underside of the downtube (right in line for spray off the front wheel) and under the bottom bracket shell.
Full length outers presumably provide more protection to the cables but might generate more friction (and more places for muck to accumulate) whilst exposed cables presumably offer less friction but provide more points for water and dirt ingress.Posted 7 years agoIntense-PilotSubscriber
Pros and cons for each. I have normal/ interrupted outers on most bikes, but have run a full length outer on my 66 to stop ghost shifting – I reckon nearly 7" of rear suspension was more than the short outer sections could cope with, and the inner became taught as the suspension compressed. I've not found it necessary on hardtails, on the 4" Tunner or 5.5" Intense. Just a theory! I use XTR cable sets on all bikes, but buy XT for the full length outer.Posted 7 years agobristolbikerMember
swapped to full length brake cables on my commuting bike nearly 4 years ago, and with rubber wipers at the cable exit they've needed zero maintenance in that time. Seriously thinking about doing the same for the rear mech next time it gets gummed up with cack as it's been a revelation.Posted 7 years ago
I won't ride anything without interrupted cables, it just seems stupid to have it full length.
smart arse! A full length cable will keep things clean and require zero maintenance, also means less faffing about with little bits of outer, i don't see any benefit to having interrupted cable outers, oh you might save a few grams if your into that i suppose.Posted 7 years ago
i don't see any benefit to having interrupted cable outers
Cables work best in tension, the best way of getting tension into the system is to use the frame, rather than the shifter and the mech stops. interrupted gear cable will always shift better than un-irrupted. Crap will always get into full length outers.
Whatever floats your boat really though, if you're happy with full length then go for it…Posted 7 years agobristolbikerMember
How about just cleaning it next time it gets gummed up with cack…works for me.
Yeah, but why bother? If there is a solution to stop the problem, why not do it? Once filth is pulled into the cable, not only does it cause friction but also starts to wear the cable outer/PTFE liner, and then eventually the outer needs replacing – it's just a constant battle to keep it all clean or replace the cables. I would have said the same as you before actually trying it.
interrupted gear cable will always shift better than un-irrupted.
Disagree with that – ghost-shift on FS as has been mentioned above as an example where full length is the way aheadPosted 7 years agodocrobsterMember
I have both. Not noticed a difference.Posted 7 years ago
Muck will get in at the ends. Full length only got 2 ends so less muck gets in, but interrupted is much easier to clean the individual runs- detach from frame, move along the inner, lashings of WD40/GT85/WHY, run them up and down a bit, re-attach to stops, done. Easy job that can be done every time you wash the bike.
With full length outers I would tend to ignore them till they get graunchy then replace the whole lot. Horses for courses.
The fact that both systems are used tells me neither one is better.snowpaulMember
Heres the one true solution : go to wiggle and buy their cheap sealed cable set made by transfil- 4 quid or so
You still run interrupted sections but the ferrules seal into an outer straw which more or less makes the system waterproof with wax / minimal greasing – the system can be taken apart for some cleaning and it just simply works for ages – I only ever need to replace the outer on the rear mech once a year or so as that sometimes gets crappy as the seal at that end isnt 100pc
sorted – now go ride yor bike
paulPosted 7 years ago
I'm still using the same cable, cable outer, rear mech and shifter that came on my 2006 enduro, so four years later it still works perfectly, no cleaning, lubing or anything. I'm tempted to take it apart now just to see if there is any gunk or rust or anything up there, but it just keeps on working.Posted 7 years ago
The topic ‘Full lengh vs interupted cables outers’ is closed to new replies.