- FSA XC 300 SL freehub service / strip down
Anyone actually managed to get the free hub apart?
I have removed the freehub from the axle , and from the hub .
I want to open it up so i can clean and inspect the pawls , re – lube and re-asemble.
I can see no way of doing this am i being a div and missing something obvious? Or do i need a special tool for the job that inserts into the 2 slots adjacent to the outermost bearing ?
Thanks . RobPosted 7 years ago
I’m doing this at the moment! You need a 12mm allen key to release the free hub (look carefully through the centre of the hub and you’ll see where the allen key fits. The instructions are on the FSA website but you need to look carefully ‘cos they’re not labelled as ‘FSA XC 300 SL’ instructions but something like [/i]Wheel Service 100.
Instructions are the same as the Wheel Service 100 option on the above link.Posted 7 years ago
one step ahead of you there mate! the local hardware shop only had a 1/2″ allen key , so an hour of trimming with the file on the leatherman was required to pop the freehub off the hub body .
i want to get inside the freehub , but it wont let me . it was making some intersting mechanical ‘twangs’ so i think i might be a pawl down.
robPosted 7 years ago
I haven’t even tracked down a 12mm allen key yet! Maybe the freehub is non-serviceable then. I might just put the new bearings back in mine ‘cos the free wheel was fine, I was just getting all mechanically bold ‘cos I took a campag hub apart last week and regreased the pawls ‘n stuff and it’s like brand new again…….
Good luck & let me know if you get the b”gger apart 🙂Posted 7 years ago
wiggle did sell fsa replacements as they they are a bit odd ballPosted 7 years ago
Looking at the design i think they are never meant to be disembled .
I think on construction the outermost bearing is crimped with a sprung O ring , then inserted into a slot . There is no method of compressig the steel O ring to pop the outer splined bit from the inner pawl assembly.
My local hardware shop had a 1/2″ allen key , for radiator fitting , not ideal , but workable with some modification.
For £32 i might try a few oil flushes through mine to see if it stops twanging , as the bearings are in really good nick .
Nice to have you back Tazzy from your enforced sabaticalPosted 7 years ago
Yep , but warm the body with a full kettle of boiling water as its an interference fit bearing . When its hot give the axel a tap with pref. a rubber mallet . the link shows a piccy on the FSA wheel pdf .Posted 7 years ago
Then its a 12mm on the freehub , allowing flushing with oil.tmparry01Member
This is an old post but I serviced one of these today here’s how. Remove cassette. Remove aluminium cones/spacers from each side of axle. Knock the axle out of the disc side (hit the drive side of the axle with mallet). Prise out the drive side rubber seal. Knock out the drive side bearing by putting a bar thru the hub from the disc side. Next u will need to make a tool- a piece of rectangular steel/alu about 39mm wide x 4mm thick x xx long. Put this in the drive side retaining ring slots and inscrew CLOCKWISE (LH THREAD!!!). The free hub outer can now be lifter clear of the pawls. Careful the balls are LOOSE BALLS. Clean all parts an regrease to hold balls into races. Lower wheel downwards from above to insert the outermost race and balls into the free hub. Reassembly reverse of assembly. It’s pretty easy to do. Just fiddly with the separate balls..Posted 6 years ago
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