Viewing 37 posts - 41 through 77 (of 77 total)
  • FS 29ers – "xc" vs "trail bikes" ?
  • ahwiles
    Free Member

    roverpig – Member

    but would you really be comfortable riding down a steep technical section on something with 100mm of travel and a 71 degree HA? That’s a genuine question. I have no idea, but would be nervous of getting a bike that would exclude me from some trails.

    short forks can be great on really steep techy stuff, they don’t dive as much when you use the brakes.

    and we like slack head angles when we’re riding down steep stuff as it pushes the front wheel out in front – which helps with the weight balance. More or less the same thing can be achieved with a longer ‘front centre’ (BB to front axle).

    i may be wrong, but it seems to me that there’s a trend towards longer front-centres on bikes these days – paired with shorter stems.

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Thanks. That ties in with my experiences too for what it’s worth. I’ve been playing with an old Five with a 150mm fork that I’ve set up to be very slack (66 degree HA) and a newer Trance with a 125mm fork and a 69 degree HA. What surprised me was that I felt more comfortable on the shorter steeper Trance than the longer slacker Five. Not what I was expecting at all, but it’s basically for the reasons that you state. The longer travel on the Five means larger changes in geometry as the fork compresses. The Trance is also a large, where the Five is a medium. So, despite being steeper the distance from the BB to the front wheel is pretty much the same on both bikes.

    Of course this doesn’t mean that longer and slacker is wrong. For those that want to fly down without touching the brakes I’m sure the self centring effect of the slacker HA comes in very handy. But for those of us who nervously pick our way down steep sections it doesn’t seem that longer and slacker actually provides any benefits at all. In fact, if anything, it makes things harder and that’s before we even get to climbing back up again.

    mattjg
    Free Member

    @roverpig if that all adds up (& it makes sense to me) I think you’ve just confirmed slack & big boing isn’t what I want. (Thx).

    roverpig
    Full Member

    No problem, although I’d wait to have it confirmed by somebody who knows what they are talking about before spending any money 🙂

    ryreed
    Free Member

    dickie – Member
    Went to a bike demo recently at Dalby & tried a Pace RC129, Santa Cruz Tallboy, Santa Cruz Superlight 29er, Santa Cruz TRc, Scott Genius 720 (650b) but the best & last bike I tested was a Scott Spark 920 (29er). It just felt right, light & capable.

    I had a Spark on loan and agree that it’s a really nice bike which fits well between the full-on xc race type FS and a slacker longer trail bike. When locked out it was super quick on the climbs and it felt great descending. My only bike is a Spesh Enduro so I expected it to be lacking on the descents but I really liked it. I had a Carbon version with alloy rear end. Spark 30 I think. Well worth a look.

    teamhurtmore
    Free Member

    Ahwiles/Roverpig, thanks for that. I helps to explain exactly how I felt. Matt thanks for the heads up on the demo day, I will check that out. I will also let you know when there is a not well known sale of stock near us – includes spesh stuff if you can if you can overcome the emotional resistance 😉

    Annoying that my bike is at LBS at the moment. Glorious morning and I found some new cheeky bits of ST that I want to try out.

    mattjg
    Free Member

    Ahwiles/Roverpig, thanks for that. I helps to explain exactly how I felt.

    Yeah me too. I don’t mind picking my way down stuff. I don’t see the point of “let go the brakes and let the bike smooth it all out”, where’s the fun in that? Smooth it out enough and we may as well all go road riding.

    (Beautiful day eh, what are the odds of heatwave March, hosepipe ban in April and then it’ll start raining again!)

    Gotama
    Free Member

    Entirely agree for round us re travel length. Based on faffing around with various bikes i reckon 69/70 degrees on a 29er is perfect for all the fun downy hill stuff round us.

    Re that Canyon Nerve – no, they’re not out until april and even then i don’t think there is anywhere that you can demo a canyon which is the main problem with them.

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Nice bike by the way Tom B. A big part of the reason why I haven’t moved to a 29er yet is that my 26″ Trance X2 is so capable.

    nickc
    Full Member

    short forks can be great on really steep techy stuff, they don’t dive as much when you use the brakes.

    You’d really use a front brake on a techy descent?

    GaryLake
    Free Member

    If you’re looking for more XC biased but to be used as a Trail bike. Both the Tallboy AL and Superfly 100 AL cover the XC bike that needs to double up as a trail bike very well. Superfly is a bit lighter than a Tallboy but no less capable IMO assuming you run the TB at 100mm. Superfly won’t take a 120mm fork, TB will.

    I’ve ridden Superfly and Gyro back to back for some time now. Gyro is very much the trail bike of the two but very surprising as an XC bike. The Superfly is very much the XC bike of the two but very surprising as a Trail bike.

    The key difference is that I wouldn’t enjoy attempting something like the FOD DH trails on the Superfly. The Gyro on the otherhand was a surprisingly good giggle and not particularly slow doing that stuff.

    londonerinoz
    Free Member

    I’m considering an XC race capable full suss 29er too and I’m trying to understand if I need slack geo and 120mm travel rather than traditional and 100mm. I haven’t bought a bike since 2004 and things really seem to have changed!

    What gets me is that I rode my Stumpy FSR 100mm with 70.5 HA downhill in Morzine for 2 weeks no problem, and I’m not some extraordinary talent, so what are people riding in the UK that requires slacker, longer travel trail bikes?

    mattjg
    Free Member

    Gary looking for an FS I think, if you’re a Trek guy did you try Rumblefish?

    Yeah the Gyro is in the mix.

    milodog
    Free Member

    Specialized Camber 29er. Buy one, wear out all the cheapo bits and replace with uk spec stuff hope/shimano/maxxis etc and ride til you pop. ace bike, tried nearly all on demo days last year, specialized was the one i put my money on

    GaryLake
    Free Member

    mattjg: no not ridden a Rumblefish but very interested in getting on one at some point.

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    nickc – Member

    You’d really use a front brake on a techy descent?

    er, yes, if i needed to – why wouldn’t i?

    anyway, simply riding down a steep descent will move your weight forward, and can/will cause a bit of fork-dive, and short forks dive less than long forks.

    i’m not saying that short forks are better than long forks for steep/techy descents, i’m just suggesting that they’re not necessarily worse.

    oomidamon
    Full Member

    I nearly went down the carbon Tallboy route after demo’ing an Alu one at Afan but stopped myself when I saw the Trek Rumblefish Pro – great spec and a hell of a lot cheaper. It’s a really nice ‘trail’ FS & does all I want it to very well. It could do with going on a bit of a diet tho (owners, bikes…). If you’re looking for a bargain take a look at this site

    mattjg
    Free Member

    Trek are really good at uglying-up potentially nice looking bikes.

    nickc
    Full Member

    awhiles,

    because front brake on techy descent will sometimes pitch you over the front, and will compress your forks, whereas back brake will never do that…the worst that will happen is you fall over sideways, or if you’re in the right place you’ll just sit on your rear wheel.

    anyway, simply riding down a steep descent will move your weight forward

    err move your weight back?

    svalgis
    Free Member

    If it’s steep and loose enough the rear brake alone won’t do you much good though. I’d be terrified to ride down the “gnarliest” (by my humble standards) stuff around here without the use of the front brake. It’s extremely probable that my braking, and overall technique, is shite, though.

    nickc
    Full Member

    If it’s steep and loose enough the rear brake alone won’t do you much good though

    it will slow you down enough to bail if you have to. but really if your going into steep techy stuff fast enough* that you have to use your front brake, then you might want to re-asses what your’re doing.

    *speeds may vary depending on levels of lunacy… 😆

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    nickc – Member

    awhiles,

    because front brake on techy descent will sometimes pitch you over the front, and will

    this has never happened to me.

    maybe my forks are too short?

    seabass
    Free Member

    Had an m109s demo over the weekend, very impressed.
    Yes it does feel heavy when you give it the heft test but largely irrelevant IMO. Yes for XC racing you’ll be carrying some weight but……
    I’m about 14 stone all in and was very impressed at how stiff the frame, forks, wheels and the interfaces between were. Very fun to ride in a popping off every kerb on the way to the trail way. The question for me now is how much of the feel is in the wheels

    sambob
    Free Member

    My Salsa feels quite heavy during the heft test, but really does ride quite light, may sound like a loada bull but it’s true.

    love
    Free Member

    …the long vs. short fork thing…I think that it is more to do with forks without low speed compression damping Vs. forks with low speed compression damping 😉

    mattjg
    Free Member

    The question for me now is how much of the feel is in the wheels

    Potentially quite a lot. Rotational mass matters on a 29er.

    Thx for the review. Would you buy one?

    If I bought one I’d want a dropper on it so that’s another pound.

    Tom-B
    Free Member

    My Trance above weighs over 33lbs with the dropper post fitted!! New wheels and a Revelation fork should get it close to 30lbs.

    GaryLake
    Free Member

    I’d say the wheels are more important than ever on a 29er. Quite a lot of sub 2kg, £250 ish wheelsets are dreadful for just being wobbly, flexy messes. The bigger wheels have more room to be compromised than 26ers and it’s harder to get a good/cheap wheel…

    The Pro IIs/TN319s that came on the Gyro are about 2.1kg but they’re plenty stout and I’d prefer that and suck it up a bit in terms of the weight than have a soft wheelset.

    The American Classic All Mountains I’ve since put on at 1750g are lighter than many ‘xc’ wheels, not insanely expensive (compared to carbon and other top end wheels in this day and age), have wonderfully wide rim and are very stiff too. Landing sideways, dropping to flat, they’re still as straight as can be.

    If I was speccing a new 29er build, I’d choose my wheels before I’d even chosen the frame I reckon.

    love
    Free Member

    Second the comment on wheels…esp if on an am/trail 29er. I have ridden a range of 29ers now inc. xc hardtail, more trail hardtail, epic and am full suspension…wobbly wheels (rear) after fun rides on the faster and more able in rough/jump terrain bikes…my conclusion is that to run a bike like this and ride it how you want/to the capability of the bike then good strong (but light(ish)) wheels are required and this means £expensive. 😕

    mattjg
    Free Member

    Anyone able to give a meaningful opinion on the Whyte wheels that come on the M109S?

    roverpig
    Full Member

    I guess it makes sense that wheels are pretty important on a 29er. After all, what we are talking about is a new wheel size. What isn’t clear, at least to me yet, is whether 29ers make sense as a full suss trail bike, but if they do they key will be getting the wheels right.

    So, what is a good choice wheelset for a full suss Trail 29er? Personally I’d like something as light and as strong as my 26″ Hope Hoops with Flow EX rims and tubeless Nobby Nic 2.35″ tyres. But is that even possible in a 29er and what would it cost?

    GaryLake
    Free Member

    American Classic All Mountains, £499, 1750g – They’ve survived FOD DH on the Gyro no sweat without mincing, and I’ve generally tried to not be precious with them, with a set of Hans Dampfs on, plenty wide enough rims.

    Had the 26ers too, can’t fault them, even stingy-radar gave them 4.5 stars: http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/components/wheel-sets/product/review-american-classic-all-mountain-wheelset-12-46217

    I gave the 26ers 5 stars: http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/gear/components/wheels/american-classic-all-mountain-26-tubeless.htm

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Look good Gary, but surely an Orange has to have Hope Hoops. Or are you more interested in function than form or something 🙂

    teamhurtmore
    Free Member

    Incredible to think that we are talking (generally) about spending £2k on a bike (give or take a grand) and still taking about needing better wheels. Its an insane world!! 😉

    GaryLake
    Free Member

    Self building is always going to better value if you can manage it though.

    Well the rims aren’t Hope on Hope Hoops, so as nice as it would be to retain the Hope hubs, I’m more interested in the rims.

    mattjg
    Free Member

    @th yes – and that can be another 50% on top of the purchase price

    Crell
    Free Member

    A bit of a thread revival, but back to the OP’s questions I had a 109s on demo last week and took it to CYB on the Beast.

    It’s not light – we weighed it at about 28.5 lbs (with XTR pedals) but even being a bit of a weight weenie I can’t say I noticed the weight at all when riding.

    The (carbon) wheels were a revelation. They are incredibly stiff, track like they’re on rails and don’t really deflect in a “side” impact. I was worried about them given the cost, but I didn’t really hold back at all. I noticed there were a couple of marks on the lacquer but they held up very well.

    The riding position is great, (M, 5’10”) and you can shift your weight around when needed. With the CTD shocks though, despite my scepticism I did what the shop suggested and left it in descend all day bar a couple of road sections. NO discernable pedal bob when climbing seated, and only a little out of the saddle. It’s such a comfortable bike.

    Gearing seemed high (er), noting the cadence of others compared to me as we were riding along in bottom gear, but perfectly manageable.

    Climbing was interesting. Generally excellent, with good traction (even from the undernourished looking Ikons). I stopped on one rocky uphill section which was quite steep but then struggled to get the bike moving again. By the time I was clipping in the wheels just stopped rotating. Something to do with the wheelsize maybe as the section didn’t look like it should have given me as many problems as it did.

    Where the bike excelled was descending. For a 100mm bike it’s very capable. It just seemed to hold and gain speed really easily. The Icon tyres didn’t seem to like wet rock however. I’m no downhiller but some of the Strava section times were pretty respectable. At no point did I wish I had more travel, or feel underbiked.

    The one thing I struggled with were low speed corners. The bike was slow to turn in and I kept having to put my foot down (and fall off).

    Would I buy it? It’s the only 29er I’ve ridden and was very impressed.
    Slow speed cornering (I put that down to my lack of experience) and weight (though that’s a mental thing) are the only two things I could hold against it. Oh, and the colour scheme, which I really don’t like (the standard 109 looks much nicer).

    Given that , the shop still has my 2k deposit so I guess I’m still thinking about it 🙂

Viewing 37 posts - 41 through 77 (of 77 total)

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