- Freewheel won’t spin if axle is torqued up
As per title really.
My rear hub has a bolt-through axle, which is supposed to be tightened to 10Nm.
As I tighten the axle, the freewheel becomes increasingly reluctant to spin. I don’t have a torque wrench to check the torque, but it doesn’t feel like I’m tightening the axle a lot before the freewheel starts to stick.
I’ve never come across this before with my bikes with QR rear hubs, where I tend to do them up tight enough that I can close them with my hand without it being uncomfortable.
Is this just normal, or does it indicate I’m e.g. missing a cassette spacer or something like that?Posted 4 days ago
Have you had the hub apart? Is it a Hope one?Posted 4 days ago
I had the hub serviced recently. It’s a DT Swiss one, although not one of the fancier ones (possibly a 370).Posted 4 days ago
I would put money on the freehub outer bearing needing replacing. If was done perhaps it was damaged on installation or was a poorly greased/sealed bearing.
Very easy job with a block of wood, a socket set, a hammer, another bit of wood as a drift, and 2 appropriately sized bearingsPosted 4 days ago
Sounds like the axle spacer that keeps the freehub from being squished into the main hub body is missing.
This thingPosted 4 days ago
@hatter should that presumably go between the freehub and the hub body itself then?Posted 4 days ago
Yes, it sits on the axle between the inner freehub bearing, and the drive side hub bearing.Posted 4 days ago
I will have a look to see whether that’s missing.
@boombang it has just had all the bearings done so I guess it’s possible that one was damaged during installation. Is there any way I could confirm that short of taking it all to bits?Posted 3 days ago
Doing the bearings would involve removing the spacer, looks like whoever did it neglected to put it back again afterwards.
Not unusual.Posted 3 days ago
Yes, have had this on a Hope hub before.Posted 3 days ago
You can do all the above in one go and yes it is equally possible the spacer has been left out.
Whip off freehub, turn bearings by finger. Unless they are super smooth it is worth changing them again.
You should be able to look through outer and see the spacer between that and the inner. If it looks like a tube it’s there, if a big gap it isn’t.
If spacer is missing it has to come apart and that will probably kill the bearings anyhowPosted 3 days ago
It sounds like I need to get the manual for the hub out and have a look. What a pain. I took it to the LBS to avoid having to get stuck in myself (having none of the appropriate tools), but having taken it back twice already now for various niggles I’m losing faith a little bit tbh 🙁Posted 3 days ago
Oooh, I had this issue last week! Mine manifested itself by the freewheel binding if axle done up too tight, though mine was the QR one. A difference of an 1/8th of a turn was all it took to go form working OK to being rubbish.Posted 3 days ago
What had gone wrong on mine was that that spacer had moved out of place slightly, and drifted along the axle. Apply much GT85, get the spacer off the axle (mine as all gunked up), put it back FULLY after cleaning) and working wheel again.
Spacer issue +1.Posted 3 days ago
370 is a rock solid budget hub, get someone to look at it who knows what they’re doing and it should see you right for years yet, they can be serviced easily and unlike most other budget hubs spares are readily available.Posted 3 days ago
If it has been serviced, with replacement bearings I would bet one of the bearings has not been fully seated on assembly.Posted 3 days ago
check that the freehub seal is fully seated and that the shim ring is seated properly tooPosted 3 days ago
I took it to the LBS to avoid having to get stuck in myself
Sadly, years ago I came to the conclusion that, for many jobs, it’s just easier to do it yourself then at least you’ll know it’s been done right. I reached this conclusion after a bike I had went in for frame bearings and was returned, 3 weeks later with none of them changed because “we just decided to lubricate them up instead – they’ll be fine”. Cost me a fortune in labour and, unsurprisingly, lasted a matter of weeks before grinding up again. I’ve rarely taken a bike into a shop since that day.
Also, being able to swap a BB, fix a freehub or what have you is useful when you have a son that races and you realise the day before a race that something is buggered, but you know the shops all have weeks of backlog.
Good luck getting it sorted and, yes, sounds like the internal spacer is missing to me too. Two minute job to check on a DT Swiss hub.Posted 3 days ago
Check also that the cassette lock ring isn’t binding on the dropout. I had this with my Crockett after a cassette change.Posted 2 days ago
I’m having this exact issue at the moment.
new sunrace 10-46 11 speed xd cassette replacing a sram go cassette. I’ve followed the instructions and torqued up but it just doesn’t fit. I’ve tried it on an old wheel too and the same issue, the lock ring is just binding on the dropout.
The bike is a g150s. Is there something obvious that I may be doing wrong?
chrisPosted 2 days ago
As other has said its likey a spacer missing or a bearing not seated fully.Posted 2 days ago
Sadly, years ago I came to the conclusion that, for many jobs, it’s just easier to do it yourself then at least you’ll know it’s been done right
Aye, you’re probably right.
I do most of my bike spannering myself, but the hub service docs all started off with “take your special DT Swiss tool…” and I figured better to let someone with the tools and experience sort it. I’ve probably now spent enough time driving to and from the LBS that it would have been easier just to buy the tool 😂😭Posted 22 hours ago
check that the freehub seal is fully seated
I had this on a Novatec hub: binding when the axle was tightened because the freehub seal wasn’t fully home.Posted 22 hours ago
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