- Frame Tolerance, Is This Acceptable?
A new SS 29er arrived today mail order, on closer inspection it seems the rear triangle has been welded wonky, ive tried the wheel in both ways it’s not a dishing issue, it’s out by a good 5mm, is this a acceptable tolerance for a frame? or should i send it back and see if i get a better one?
Posted 5 years ago
The the top tube looks slightly out where it joins the seat tube, this has had a knock on effect on the non drive side seat stay which looks (by eye) that its been welded on lower that the drive side, and this has made the dropout lower on the none drive side, i think this is what’s causing it.
Just don’t want the manufacturer to turn round and say it’s within tolerance.Posted 5 years agoircSubscriber
Just don’t want the manufacturer to turn round and say it’s within tolerance.
Surely it doesn’t matter what they say? It mail order you can return it under the distance selling regs.Posted 5 years ago
Yeah Cannondale SS 29er, thinking about i got a Canyon 29er in summer ‘which has a thru axle drop out, if that had a come this wonky i think id have trouble getting the axle in without cross threading it.Posted 5 years ago
Will send it back a hope the next comes one comes without the wonkyness!
Will update the thread when the new one arrives.MrSalmonMember
My Giant XTC was out about that much and I got it replaced under warranty. Couldn’t honestly say that it really made an appreciable difference, but it bugged me- if it’s new and it’s not right why put up with it?
And I wouldn’t let it put you off Cannondale (or whoever), at least until they’ve had a chance to make it right- all brands will have the odd duff one.Posted 5 years agoJoeGSubscriber
Asymmetrical chainstays are usually made for drivetrain clearance. Often the drive side chainstay is lower and/or curved, and may attach to the bottom bracket in a different manner or location than the other chainstay.
It still puts the tire/wheel on the bike centerline, though. The OP’s frame clearly does not.Posted 5 years agogearfreakMember
Wrap a piece of string from the outside of one dropout, round the headtube and back to the outside of the opposing dropout. Measure the distace from the string to the centre of the seattube on each side. If it’s not the same then it’s the frame, if it’s the same look for other possibilities.Posted 5 years agorootes1Member
how the wheel rim meaure up against chainstays? seattube?
if this is a dropout issue(axle not horizontal across both dropouts) then on a small issue (like paint etc) at the dropout will lead to a big error at the wheel rim (vertical – setastays, for and aft – chainstays)
my caad8 road bike has a slighly larger lefthand drop hole to always have to make sure axle is right place before tighthening the QR or it is out at the chainstaysPosted 5 years ago
Its still out at the chainstays and off at the seatube im going to double check it now, but i think the rear triangle has just been welded wonky, ie seat stay junction weld is lower on the seat tube, effecting the er… drop of the dropout. I dont mind stuff being out by a bit, but this is noticeable by eye from the front of the bike.
Cheer for the comments and help everyone! 🙂Posted 5 years ago
Rack mounts aren’t the kind of thing I’d take critical measurements from. They should be reasonably straight, but I wouldn’t count on it. The critical measurement is whether the axle is perpendicular to the seat tube, and to measure that you either need a frame jig, or a straight wheel you can eyeball against the seat tube.Posted 5 years ago
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