Fork choice for a Mojo

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  • Fork choice for a Mojo
  • Premier Icon rickmeister
    Subscriber

    There is also a facetube Ibis Riders group too…

    I have a SL and using an Ebay aquired Fox 36 RC2 Talas, its smashing*

    *Other forks are available

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    A bit of recent bike auditing chez Goat means I am about to become the owner of a Mojo HD in 140 flavour. I want to build it in “trail” mode, given that I like a bit of rocky nonsense, but love flowy jumpy as much if not more. I’m too old and not brave enough to send it much, but I do like a bit of air where I can find it. It’s going to get a pair of Arch EX on Proll Evo and 2×10 XT. Now, I like Revelations, so I’m tempted to go for a 150 Rev. Having said that I’ve also been intrigued by the various views on X Fusion Slants.

    SO, given my not particularly aggressive riding and given that it’s to be ridden in some lumpy bits of the UK mainly, what do the massive suggest as a suitable fork? Budget suggests I can afford the Slant if it’s any better than a Revelation (though by the time I’ve got one from Probikeshop or whatever there’s not much in it for new) or of course I could simply get a decent secondhand Rev and spend some money on a skills course/beer

    waldo1
    Member

    If you’re keeping it in 140 mode I’d put 650b pikes and wheels.
    Hd is a great bike.
    I’ve had three now in various guises.
    Pikes can be found at very competitive prices
    (Circa 600 notes) hard to ignore the weight and performance per buck.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    How about a Lyrik?

    dirk_pumpa
    Member

    I run a 36, anything less substantial than that would be a bit pointless imo.

    Stevelol
    Member

    I have a Revelation on my bike, but have used a 34mm stanchion fork (Deville) and Lyriks. For the money, I would go for a Slant, they get very good reviews and are apparently much stiffer than Revelations, that’s going to be handy when you’re riding rock gardens and such. I think they run around 200g heavier than Revs which is hardly anything.

    julians
    Member

    A fox 36 has worked well for me for the last couple of years. I reckon anything significantly lighter weight is not going to do the stiffness and intent of the frame justice, but all depends what you want out of it I guess.

    Seems like a wasted opportunity to have an HD frame, but then put forks more suited to a lighter weight bike on it.

    My 36’s have just broken (my own fault – see other thread from thursday), so I’ve ordered a set of marzocchi 55 rc3’s. Heavier than the 36’s ,but hopefully even more controlled downhill performance too.

    godzilla
    Member

    I run Devilles at 140 and haven’t once wanted a stiffer front or felt under gunned, 36’s on a trail build could be overkill.

    Premier Icon chakaping
    Subscriber

    Marz 44 rc3 ti could do the job.

    Fair bit stiffer than a Rev and have sublime damping.

    julians
    Member

    I run Devilles at 140 and haven’t once wanted a stiffer front or felt under gunned, 36’s on a trail build could be overkill.

    You can clearly do whatever you like, but I would’ve thought that if you’re aiming for a trail build then it would have made more sense to start with a trail oriented frame (ie the mojo SLR/SL) rather than their enduro/all mountain frame. But each to their own and all that.

    Anyway, getting back on topic, in terms of lighter weight forks, the xfusion slants get decent reviews, as do the marz 44’s, the fox 32’s with the CTD damping seem to get poor reviews these days.I’d be tempted by either the xfusion or the marz 44’s, whichever was cheapest.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    I’m grateful for your inputs…..

    I’ve gone back round and read a few more reviews re the Slants, and it’s looking like they could be a contender. I can get a brand new Slant DLA for the price of secondhand Fox 36, so that’s currently looking favourite.

    eyerideit
    Member

    I’ve got Magura Thors on my Mojo,

    Stiff, light and squishy.

    They replaced some Pikes which were squishy, stiff but HEAVYYYYY

    dirk_pumpa
    Member

    Julian has it right, the HD doesnt deserve a set of noodles on the front. Its a really sturdy frame. Get an SL and a triple if its just mincing about you’re doing.

    godzilla
    Member

    The lad wants a tough trail bike and the HD is a good choice, I doubt very much 34mm slants are going to feel like spaghetti.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    Please don’t fall out on my behalf! I know it’s a bit of an enigma but I reckon the Mojo might just suit me with a burlier fork but want to be able to ride all day on it too. I reckon the Slant fills the gap we’re foundering in. Godzilla’s right, I want it to be a tough Trail Bike, For the money and the added 200g it’s looking good for the Slants. Now all I need to do is go out and learn to ride it to its potential. 😀

    Thanks for all your help. Now, do I want the DLA for the extra £40?……. 😕

    Lester
    Member

    ive got dt swiss exm 150s on mine, i know it should be at least 160 for hd 160 but it suits my riding and i dont feel compromised at all. The launch control is ace

    godzilla
    Member

    My trail enduro xc bike 😀

    Lester
    Member

    they really suit the mojo in white 🙂 great choice

    Premier Icon jamj1974
    Subscriber

    That is lovely Godzilla!

    mikeep
    Member

    I bought a mojo HD frame and swapped my stuff across. This included 150mm Revelations. I felt that the frames stiffness really exaggerated the forks flexiness (if that makes sense!). Felt that I couldn’t really push the bike to its limits.

    Bought some slants and they are perfectly matched to the HD. Had two weeks in the alps not long after buying them. Love it.

    DLA worth it for steep climbs.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    Mmm, interesting. The guy selling the frame has some Deville 160s on it. They may come in at budget. They are the basic tapered (non TRC version) so will I miss the features on the Slant

    Godzilla, can I be really sad and ask whether that’s been on the scales in that guise?

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    oooooh, Freeborn have the Slants ready for posting out in the colour I want…. Trigger pulled!

    banks
    Member

    I bought a mojo HD frame and swapped my stuff across. This included 150mm Revelations. I felt that the frames stiffness really exaggerated the forks flexiness (if that makes sense!). Felt that I couldn’t really push the bike to its limits.

    Chris Akrigg runs revs..

    DLA is a bit shit btw, not very reliable, which may bother some.

    andymc06
    Member

    DLA is great on my Slants.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    They didn’t have the DLA in, and it’s only extra faffage, so the tapered 160 is on its way, as is the frame now. Only hope it looks as nice as Godzilla’s when it’s finished. :mrgreen:

    godzilla
    Member

    Cheers for the kind words, it took a lot of saving up for 😀

    Godzilla, can I be really sad and ask whether that’s been on the scales in that guise?

    30lds all in, that’s on bathroom scales.

    Chris Akrigg runs revs..

    Chris ackrigg is cool as sh!t..
    I would buy new forks rather than someone else’s problems if you can afford to, just looked at freeborn and they look ace value.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but here’s the finished article with the Slant 160s.

    Just got back from a quick maiden thrash…. looking and feeling pretty good so far!

    godzilla
    Member

    8) looks class! However one of us has our rear mech cable mounted wrong, maybe.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    However one of us has our rear mech cable mounted wrong, maybe

    Really? How have you mounted yours? Mine routes from the shifter to the carbon clip under the top tube, on the right hand side of the bike, then down through the polycarb hoseguard thingy, out onto the cable clip on the BB, up to the cable guide under the top of the rear triangle , passing behind the front mech cable as it does so, then under the top of the triangle to the cable stop on the mech.

    The rear brake hose follows the same route on the left of the bike, with front mech cable crossing around the head tube to follow the right of the top tube guides, and the Reverb passes along the top tube to the left hand side.

    godzilla
    Member

    silly me, was suppose to front.

    However one of us has our rear front mech cable mounted wrong, maybe.

    Looks like your is on the right, is that on purpose?
    Manual

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    The guy who sold me the frame still hasn’t remembered to give me the manual, so all that is new to me! However, routing it like in the manual means it crosses the top tube and round the seat tube, which looks a bit odd to me. Aesthetically I prefer my way, and it’s one less curve in the outer!

    However, routing the rear brake hose inside the triangle makes sense, as I could feel it brushing my ankle on the test ride this afternoon. Where’s my bleed kit?

    julians
    Member

    However, routing the rear brake hose inside the triangle makes sense, as I could feel it brushing my ankle on the test ride this afternoon. Where’s my bleed kit?

    you dont need to take the brake pipe off the caliper or lever in order to route the brake pipe inside the rear triangle, just undo the upper or lower (cant remember which) suspension bolts and then the triangle can move out of the way enough to pass the caliper through.

    Much easier than bleeding the brakes etc.

    Premier Icon Scapegoat
    Subscriber

    Experience with XT Brakes shows that you can swap levers without bleeding.
    Take the pads out, and gently pump the lever to show abut 3-4mm of piston. Unscrew the reservoir bleed port a turn or so so that it can “breathe”. Undo the hose at the lever inline connector, and moving it carefully so as not to let fluid leak from the end, re route it or swap it or whatever you want to do with it. Then reconnect it and snug it up tight.

    Once it’s all back together use the plastic wedges or an old set of worn pads between the pistons and use a tyre lever or flat screwdriver to reset the pistons. This sends any air that might have been in the top inch of the hose into the reservoir. Screw up the bleed port, refit the new pads and repressurise the brake by pumping the lever.

Viewing 33 posts - 1 through 33 (of 33 total)

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