- Ford 2.0 tdci starting problems
Have they actually checked/replaced the glowplugs? Although it might be a bit warm for them to be causing a problem. My 1.8 focus on similar mileage started being really hard to start in the winter. No fault codes, but I replaced all the glowplugs (~£6 each from eurocarparts for Bosch ones IIRC) and that fixed it. All of them were dead when I checked with a multimeter.
I also had loads of white smoke coming out and a rough idle for 20 seconds or so, but only really when it was cold. Again, that’s now sorted.Posted 10 months ago
Two days ago the mighty Galaxy 2.0tdci/145k took about 10 goes to start (having started first time, every time before).
This morning I did a ‘one more go, then call RAC’, after 20 mins of trying and checking under bonnet for bits and bobs.
Turns over well, I can hear pumps start up. Today it must have turned over 50+ times.
Battery is a bit low (12.8v)
Some air in the fuel line I can see. Air filter is clean and dry.
When it does start up, a fair bit of white smoke (unburnt fuel?) and then runs just fine.
Garage has drawn a blank – no fault codes on glowplugs or similar (my first thought).
Suggestions?Posted 10 months ago
Major service in March, about 5k since.
Garage said they double checked fuel filter, for sealing and confirmed it was dated from the service.
Glow plugs are next thing to do I think, poss new battery.
The only other fault it has (apart from battered and scratched…) The central locking doesn’t always undo. Related?Posted 10 months ago
I doubt glowplugs considering the time of year- I had only 2 working in mine and it’d still start even in winter, it just made a bloody fuss about it. Smoke after starting could just mean that it’s spat a load of unburnt diesel into the exhaust/cat while churning over so I wouldn’t count that as a symptom in itself.
It’s getting a wee bit off classic symptoms but if I’m playing TDCI Cluedo I generally blame the crank or cam sensors. It fits the starting/not starting/no codes nicely but usually it’d also cause an occasional cutout or limp mode while driving too so I’m not going to bet the house on it. But I think it’s a better bet than glowplugs.
If you own a ford diesel that’s more than 5 minutes old, getting a fault reader is a very good idea. I don’t know for sure about the galaxy but I have the F Super reader and software, needs a laptop but it’s powerful stuff- code reader with some interpretation, real time data, and can recode injectorsPosted 10 months ago
The only other fault it has (apart from battered and scratched…) The central locking doesn’t always undo. Related?
I’m wondering about the battery, and maybe not enough juice to get it to starting revs- there could be a stickyish central locking solenoid that the battery, which is weak, just cant fully energise.
Do a deep charge and retest?
Whats the battery voltage when the engine is running?Posted 10 months agomcMember
2.0TDCI will start in this weather without glow plugs. They’ll also normally start with minimal cranking in the depths of winter without functioning glow plugs.
My initial thought was timing jumped, but the white smoke rules that out, as if the crankshaft and camshaft aren’t seen as being synchronised fuel won’t get injected.
Instead the white smoke would make me look at the fuel system. Air ingress is not likely to produce white smoke, as if there’s no fuel pressure, the injectors won’t even open, however if there’s a leaking injector it might, and also a leaking injector may prevent the fuel rail pressure from building high enough to open the injectors, but so could a few other things.
Realistically, unless you can recreate the fault with live data available to monitor the engine basics, everything is a wild guess, and you’re simply playing parts darts in the hope something fixes it.Posted 10 months ago
IME EGR will usually give a load of other symptoms though, generally unmissable while driving- massive violent lurches especially while trying to accelerate from steady cruising revs. Not saying it can’t possibly be, but it’s not a great fit.
(mine is dead, but blanked- if I remove the blank it’ll start and run but you’ll know about it the first time you get out of the 20mph zone)Posted 10 months ago
“Ignition off reads 12.6v and 14.4v running…”
Sounds about right. Its not run out of fuel recently, has it?
Diagnostic software: this is good: I’ve used it.Posted 10 months agoMarkoMember
If it happens again I should be able to record the faults.
Maybe . . .Some faults will be logged and it will also depend on how good your scan tool is.Posted 10 months ago
Bit of a minefield I’m afraid, but crank sensor and the pick-up ring are known faults on some engine variants. I’d need the year and engine code to confirm.MarkoMember
Looks like there are only three versions for that year (engine codes: QXWA, QXWB and AZWA). The code is on the engine block, but no matter as they all seem to be the same really.
If there are no fault codes, look at the live data on your scan tool when the non start happens. Crank sensor is the primary ‘wake up’ sensor and should be present to enable a start – with the caveat that a lot of systems will realise that the crank signal is missing and use the camshaft signal to enable starting. I’m not sure on a 2006 model, but I would have thought that a hard fault would be recorded and the EML light would be on if the crankshaft sensor signal was missing.
When it runs note down (or save) all the live data displayed by your scan tool. You need to capture all the engine data – EGR position, fuel rail pressure etc (there should be loads).
When you have a non start (and assuming no fault codes) checking the know good data against the ‘bad’ no start data should point you in the right direction – maybe . ..
HthPosted 10 months ago
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