Made by HT Components in the same factory that make Superstar and Nuke Proof pedals (as far as I’m aware). Cheaper than Superstar, and FAR cheaper than Nuke Proof 😉
GW – Member
I hope for your sake you don’t ride techy descents in very muddy conditions often
Firstly the stupid recesses around the pins fill with mud rendering the pins almost useless and to top it off the outer edge is has cut aways rather than a raised edge meaning your feet have a nice slope to slide off to the outside.
thats why you run longer pins in gusset slim jims. double concave shape is nice and the longer pins mean even in the shittyest slop i can razz without slipping and having to wear special shoes.
definitely recommended. but you do need the longer pins.
just goes to show that pedals are a personal thing. i’ve tried loads of the ones recommended above but these have been the best for me.
First pair both seized and needed rebuilding, When I rebuilt them hardley any grease.
Second pair, play in the axles straight out of the box.
Third pair screws holding plates on not enough locktite and they fell out and plates came loose and one of the pedal bodies is moving on the axle even though the bearings are good and the nut is done up.
On the plus side I like they way they ride and the importer is very helpful at sorting things out on the phone so far. Need to send them back to let them look at them for me soon.
Might try the Canfield Crampons though as they are on a Sunday and any improvment in ground clearance has to be a bonus 🙂
thats why you run longer pins in gusset slim jims. double concave shape is nice and the longer pins mean even in the shittyest slop i can razz without slipping and having to wear special shoes.
definitely recommended. but you do need the longer pins.
just goes to show that pedals are a personal thing. i’ve tried loads of the ones recommended above but these have been the best for me.
FFS! if they weren’t so stipidly designed you wouldn’t need to change the pins, would you?. and that double concave you think they have isn’t actually complete with those **** stupid cut away sections at the shoulder/edges. Also you shouldn’t really ever lose your feet riding shitty conditios until it gets rough, steep, technical or a mix of all 3 even with no pedal pins.
FFS! if they weren’t so stipidly designed you wouldn’t need to change the pins, would you?. and that double concave you think they have isn’t actually complete with those **** stupid cut away sections at the shoulder/edges. Also you shouldn’t really ever lose your feet riding shitty conditios until it gets rough, steep, technical or a mix of all 3 even with no pedal pins.
lol. you only have to look at the pins to see they are shorter than 99% of other pedals. its bloody obvious you need longer pins for anything muddy. i thought they were originally designed as a ‘bmx’ pedal hence the short pins.
lol. you only have to look at the pins to see they are shorter than 99% of other pedals. its bloody obvious you need longer pins for anything muddy. i thought they were originally designed as a ‘bmx’ pedal hence the short pins
LOL indeed! you absolute **** ‘tard! the pins are 8mm grub screws! exactly the same length as in almost all standard off the shelf pedals, it’s the (I’ll shout it as you clearly are a bit special) BADLY DESIGNED Mud trappig RECESSES around them that drops
the height of them!! take them out and measure them if you don’t believe me. 🙄
Why do you feel the need to defend a blatatly obvious flawed design in a cheap far eastern catalogue part anyway?
My gf has slim jims, they’re pink, she likes them, i fitted longer pins before i put them on her bike. I use a combination of azonic a-frames and wellgo b-54s on different bikes, both are great pedals.
Si has the best pedals, the lack of pins on the outside of the hasn’t been an issue for mr, I’ve size 10 feet but I tend to rub the cranks so not really suffered my feet sliding off the sides, on a plus point the pins sharpen up when bounced off rocks and although the platform is not as wide as some the grip is good
Why do you feel the need to defend a blatatly obvious flawed design in a cheap far eastern catalogue part anyway?
why do you feel the need to tell me what parts i should (or in this case shouldnt) be riding? i like em and you dont. we have a different opinion. yay!. thats novel for here isnt it.
VH – Where did I tell you what to ride? oh, yeah.. I didn’t, did I? I simply pointed out a couple of design flaws in a random part you for some reason seem overly fond of. 😉
I like how passionate we can be about flat bits of metal
MG1s… Not as tough as some obviously, cast mag pedal bodies after all but they’re not fragile any more than they’re bombproof. One of mine is a wee bit bent out of shape and they’re both scarred to hell but they keep going and they’ve had some pretty solid whacks. Some of those impacts, I wouldn’t blame them at all if they’d broken but they didn’t, so good stuff.
The Superstar ones seem good but never really given any of them a hard time, always just used them on borrowed bikes. The basic ones are a bit pricey though.
Now, you look at the things and think they won’t grip, only 6 pins per side, no edge pin (photo shows 5, they have 6 now). But since we’re all wearing stupidly grippy shoes anyway, it turns out 6 pins is fine for me, and destroys my leg less when I’m careless pushing the damn bikes round the garage. Not got a longterm opinion, oh and the claimed weight is crooked but I’m pretty pleased so far. Need to give them a bit of a beating to be sure, so far they’ve scraped but not suffered.
Northwind those are the pedals I’ve been banging on about, they seem surprisingly strong and the pins seem to get sharper! Check your fingers though, mine only have 5 pins per side
I have Funn Soljams on my singlespeed and find them very grippy, used in conjunction with 5:10’s. They are a bit heavy, pretty wide too and have drawn blood a couple of times. 😯
I really like them and they have sealed bearings too. 8)