- Fixing a window to a steel lintel
One of our upstairs windows was getting harder and harder to open. On investigation there was no lintel fitted above the window from new and the courses of bricks above had become loose and started sagging.
So we’ve had a builder out who has now fitted a lintel. Unfortunately due to how the lintel fitted on the courses of bricks the window isnt secured at the top and is very wobbly.
Any ideas on how to secure it to the lintel ??
Cheers.Posted 7 months ago
Rivnuts?Posted 7 months ago
How wide, and sashes on it?Posted 7 months ago
How wide and what material is the frame?Posted 7 months ago
Get the Builder back and point out he’s only done half a job.Posted 7 months ago
The window is 211cm wide with fixed windows measuring 47cm each side. The main centre window is 110cm and opens from the bottom.
Looking at it you can see it had one fixing in the top right in the centre previously.
Window material is white upvcPosted 7 months ago
Funnily enough the builder isn’t replying to texts or calls.Posted 7 months ago
That’s a decent width!
But yeah, the builder should have sorted that.
Couple of self tappers through the frame into the lintel should work.
Maybe some decent adhesive might work.
But the builder should do it properly.Posted 7 months ago
No “builder” would leave it like that! What lintel was 8t? Simple L just picking up the external leaf or a catnic type? The catnics can be bastards to drill due to the holes underneath.Posted 7 months ago
You must pack the frame before screwing up or it will pull it out of level and look shit. 2 fixings 700 in from each end then foam the shit out of it. I foam every window every time on top if fixings anyway.Posted 7 months ago
Try expanding foam first. I’m not saying it’s correct but it’s what a lot of window fitters use. A lot don’t like fixing through steel lintels due to water ingress risks so if you do fix put some silicone in hole. Can fix with bay pole screws or similar.Posted 7 months ago
Filling any gaps with foam will also hold it in place if you can’t fix up into the lintel.Posted 7 months ago
Thanks for the replies.
It’s a simple L shaped lintel for the outer course. The internal course has a concrete lintel.
There is now a gap of around 8mm between the lintel and the top of the uPVC frame.
I’ve tried to drill through the lintel but it’s solid and my drill bit isn’t long enough to reach through the window frame and the gap to get a decent bite at the lintel.
Would any of these self tapping fixings work ??
Thanks.Posted 7 months ago
Would these fixings work …..
The problem with foam is that it will expand and push down on the top of the frame making the window catch more and make it even harder to open and close.Posted 7 months ago
Sorry for the near duplicate postPosted 7 months ago
Use low expanding foamPosted 7 months ago
Problem with any fixing in to the lintel is going to be the brick above it which could foul the fixing if too long which will then stop you getting the glass in. Foam isn’t like it used to be and doesn’t expand at ridiculous rates as the old stuff. Personally I’d buy a gun some cleaner and a tin of gun grade, it’s far better and more controllable than the single use stuff.Posted 7 months ago
+1 for foam. Holds it remarkably well. Had to remove one that was just foamed in recently and it took some effort. Don’t over do it and it won’t bend the frame and will be easier to clean up.Posted 7 months ago
I would just drill through the lintel with HSS bit and use a standard masonry fixing so it bites into the brick rather than the steel.Posted 7 months ago
As a final thought has the plaster head been removed from inside, if so just get some frame straps from the window supplier, always the best option but not usually available to use on replacement windows due to not wanting to disturb the reveals.Posted 7 months ago
Thanks for the replies peeps.
The frame has been drilled in the window opening previously so I’m guessing it’s not an issue about the glass fitting.
The builder did tell me that the first row of bricks is hollow on the bottom face so I’m hoping that if I can get the right length fixing it shouldn’t interfere with the brick.
Also I only need to fix the frame and raise it around 2 or 3mm to stop it catching.
So if I can get two fixings in and then foam it that should be ok yes ??Posted 7 months ago
As a final thought has the plaster head been removed from inside, if so just get some frame straps from the window supplier, always the best option but not usually available to use on replacement windows due to not wanting to disturb the reveals
Unfortunately the plaster hasn’t been disturbed so reluctant to mess with it tbhPosted 7 months ago
You shouldn’t drill up in a upvc frame
Foam itPosted 7 months ago
I’ve never used a mechanical fixing through the head of a window but that’s not to say it’s bad practice to do so. Drilling into any lintel of any material is hard work.
Plastic or wood shims/packers knocked in will hold the frame steady and depending upon the size of the gap, I would use either frame silicon or foam to finally secure. The latter if the window hasnt been measured correctly and the gap is greater than 10mm or so.Posted 7 months ago
I think the problem with no upper fixing is that because the window is so wide and has a massive central opening it is making it sag so making it hard to open and close.Posted 7 months ago
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