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  • Fitting engineered oak T&G flooring
  • Premier Icon petrieboy
    Free Member

    so after some help on here finding suppliers, i’m cracking on with fitting this tomorrow

    has anyone got any top tips for me? In particular i’m not clear on what bit of the tongue or groove i put the glue (if it matters) instructions say work left to right with groove to the wall but very vague about glue placement

    i’m floating it over a new chipboard floor which is in turn floated over PIR insulation, DPM and concrete.

    Premier Icon Cougar
    Full Member

    At that price I reckon I’d be budgeting for a sacrificial extra pack to use for practice in the shed first.

    Premier Icon BlindMelon
    Free Member

    Underlay?

    Premier Icon Cougar
    Full Member

    Premier Icon petrieboy
    Free Member

    cougar – this room is only 3.6 x 2.3 (study) so its sort of the test run before i commit to 80m2 for the kitchen and dining room

    BlindMelon – basic foam stuff that came with it. didnt bother with the fancy gold plated shizzle as i know my DPM is all good

    Premier Icon colp
    Full Member

    Cut a small V shape on the glue nozzle and run it along the tongue.

    Premier Icon muddyjames
    Free Member

    Think about where best to start and finish. I think this depends on how you will deal with the edges.

    If with a beading then probably less important where you start but if you’re putting new skirting on then you probably want to start from the door so you can tuck it under the architrave.

    I’m no expert though.

    Premier Icon dirksdiggler
    Free Member

    I work with the tongue edge facing away. Left>right seems more natural but depends on you boards/room config.
    Take the loose next row board and tilt up a little and squeeze a line of glue along the groove then slide it onto the tongue of the board that’s already down.
    Less glue ooze that way. Use a decent t&g glue though!
    Blue painters tape to keep things together.
    Offcut of your last board is starter for your next. Stagger your joints and watch the manufacturers joint offset minimums. Aim to have none of the first boards being the same length so you don’t end up with a repeating pattern.

    Premier Icon dti
    Free Member

    Just keep a damp rag on hand to wipe the excess. Spray cork is a good edging if you’re not replacing the skirting.

    Premier Icon highpeakrider
    Full Member

    I work left to right, so the tongue is facing forward on the ground and you put the glue in the grove.

    Hold wood at an angle the fill the grove them attach to piece on the floor.
    Make sure you create a a random pattern and don’t have joints next to each other.

    On your first row put spacers between that and the wall, ensure you use a scrap off cut to tap the joints together to help stop shrinkage.

    I used to get the wife to sort the order and pass me the next piece while I glued and layed.

    Premier Icon petrieboy
    Free Member

    Ok chaps – good tips there, I’m going in!!

    Premier Icon tarquin
    Free Member

    Bloke who did mine had a series of ratchet straps with special fixings to hold the flooring together tight as it was glued/assembled.

    Not sure if you have these but wasn’t something that jumped into my head he would use.

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