Well so I thought, steerer needs cutting, fair enough, new crown race needed, as old one is impossible to get off and to top it off there is no star nut supplied! why do the manufacturers not supply these thinks, with the forks, jeebus what a faff, sorry rant over.

It’s a quick and easy job, do you not have the tools?

Crown race should come off with a large flat screwdriver. Just hit it harder!

Tools consist of a multi tool and a hammer! star nut and crown race ordered.

Just pop it down your LBS and they should be done in 20 mins.
Got a pipe cutter?

new crown race needed, as old one is impossible to get off

get an old sharp knife (use your current one if you want, don’t blame me for any domestic situations that arise from this tho) work your way around the race sticking the sharp edge between the race and fork crown and tapping with a hammer/mallet. Once you’ve worked your way around if it’s still not free you should be able to get a screw driver or other lever in there.

(you can **** it with a hammer/screwdiver combo if you want but you may end up with a deformed race if it slips, don’t think it’s possible on marzocchi M crowns tho)

Just **** it with a nylon hammer, remember to lube with striped grease for best results

I have given up now, even with my rudimentary maintenance skills, I can’t see how it is possible to salvage a star nut, they cost a couple of quid, surely they could include these, it was going so well, new rear mech, indexed, with new cable fitted. I must confess to only really trying to service my own bikes recently, a bit frustrating but I will get there.

PS. Would it be a bad idea to attack the steerer with a hacksaw, without a vice. I think it is going to end in tears.

Star nut and crown race usually supplied with headsets, not forks.

Star nut you could just knock all the way through, old broom handle would do the job. Though may as well just get a new one and a new crown race. They are pennies to buy.

Crown races can be a tight fit. Just get a bolt and wrap some duck tape around the base, then use that and a hammer to gently knock the crown race into place.

Pipe cutter is a lovely clean way to cut a steerer too (unless it’s carbon!)

PS. Would it be a bad idea to attack the steerer with a hacksaw, without a vice. I think it is going to end in tears.

I have done this. Just mark it up with some tape and go very slowly, rotating the steerer tube doing a few strokes at a time. Can end up looking like a good job.

Would it be a bad idea to attack the steerer with a hacksaw, without a vice

Nope a fine-toothed hacksaw should go through it easily it doesn’t have to be perfectly level the spacers will take care of small variations.

Wrap an old inner tube around the steerer to give you some more grip

If you’ve only got a hacksaw and vice wrap some tape around the steerer at the point you want to cut. You should be able to follow the edge of the tape to get a nice, square cut.

fergal – Member
PS. Would it be a bad idea to attack the steerer with a hacksaw, without a vice. I think it is going to end in tears.

Use an old stem as a cutting guide – win.

Thanks guys, top tips.

I can’t see how it is possible to salvage a star nut,

Why would you want to?

Well exactly, I was to dumb to realise they were not supplied with the forks.

They often are tbh, you get one with boxed Rockshox (or I did). Most Halfordses stock them, if you want to pick one up in a hurry.

There’s ways to bodge it too, you could just use a bit of threaded bar for a clamp… Or I once deflated the tyre, jammed the bars under a shelf then inflated the tyre to apply pressure on the headset, then bolted it up. Pro bodge.

If you’ve got a workstand, that’s a perfect clamp for sawing steerers btw. Don’t get it wrong, but if you do, let us know so we can make ourselves feel better about our own inadequacies by ripping the shit out of you.

Pro bodge.

hmm dunno about pro, but it’s certainly a bodge for when you’ve got nothing else to hand. Cheers 🙂

I chopped my current steerer whilst it was installed in the bike, just with the stem off, one foot on the wheel to stop it moving.

a vice is too much like doing it properly.

FYI – both pairs of my marzocchi forks came with a top cap and star nut.

So they are included in some cases

Or I once deflated the tyre, jammed the bars under a shelf then inflated the tyre to apply pressure on the headset, then bolted it up. Pro bodge.

Don’t know about Pro but using a tyre to preload a headset must win an award for inventiveness. Did you have a top cap?

mrblobby – Member
Star nut and crown race usually supplied with headsets, not forks.

This. And that is why I have a load of star nuts spare as I’ve changed headsets a few times but forks less.

Did a bit of research and preparation and the last fork was a doddle. I had the star nut. Had a brand new crown race ready, mainly as this was a tapered fork and the old one was straight. Got a star nut installer and already had a rubber mallet. Plus already have both pipe cutters and hacksaws.

Hacksaw was easier than the pipe cutter. Just make sure you use something to mark the cut line all around and I find doing it in stages around the tube easier and provides a straight line. Fine sanding block to smooth it after. I just sat forks on the floor and kneeled on top to hold it while cutting and used masking tape for the guide.

Star nut installer, just whacking with mallet basically until it’s set. The one I have ensures it’s bang on the right depth.

Crown race fit with block of wood, mallet and work round until it’s seated correctly.

An old one usually comes out with a screwdriver and tapping underneath going around the race.

Age old thing with cutting of course – measure twice, cut once.

richmtb – Member

Did you have a top cap?

I did, but it was a carbon steerer and I didn’t have a bung that fit

Pipe cutters deform the headtube so you end up with a prodtrudance that prevents you putting the stem on, which needs filing down.

If you use a hacksaw you don’t get this. The way to do it is use tape or mark it out as they say, then cut a little all the way round until you are a good way in – then you can saw through the walls in bits all the way around. If you attempt to just saw through it in one go it’ll wander and you’ll end up crooked.