Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • tubeless!
  • rossburton
    Free Member

    One bike the front is leaking from between the valve and the rim. The other bike rear is is mysteriously leaking from… somewhere. It just goes down. There must be a litre of stans in it.

    I’m never going back to tubes full time but sometimes I’m just so tested… 😡

    Wally
    Full Member

    Tomorrow is sunny, try again then. I find soapy, warm flexible tyres with clean bead fit best. Cup of tea time now.

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    is leaking from between the valve and the rim

    possible but not necessarily true – that’s just where the air finally escapes, not always where the failure is. My money’s on the taping

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    Scienceofficer
    Free Member

    There’s always some poor bastard that’s 10 years behind.

    Tip. Under the special tubeless tape, run a wrap of electrical insulation tape. It’s slightly rubbery a tends to seal all the show holes, and valve hole, rather better than without it.

    On the other one, have you done the ‘Stan’s shake’ to ensure the sidewalls are coated?

    Generally, it’s best to go for a ride straight after you tubelessing then so the spooge gets well distributed and the tyres seat down nicely on the rims.

    RobHilton
    Free Member

    Tip. Under the special tubeless tape, run a wrap of electrical insulation tape.

    I only use electrical tape. It takes a few wraps round, but works just fine.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    My money is also on poor tape. Tubeless road saved me a puncture in a race tonight 😀

    Kahurangi
    Full Member

    Back when my rims were narrow I struggled to get a good seal between the valve stem and the rim bed. Blu-tack worked a treat. Also considered some silicone seal.

    In your case I’d first suspect a leak in the tape somewhere.

    rossburton
    Free Member

    If its poor tape, it’s failing tape. The bike with the failing tape has had these wheels for a couple of years now. Done the shake etc etc, been running tubeless a long time now.

    Just typical that two wheels failed at the same time when I wanted to go out!

    whitestone
    Free Member

    A mixture (on different wheels) of Stans tape and Gorilla tape works for me.

    One thing to be aware of is when changing tyres you can catch the edge of the tape and lift it slightly. It’s really hard to spot – usually the air seeps round and escapes from around the valve.

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    my taping tip is to put in an inner tube overnight after you’ve taped the rim. Pump up moderately high (watch the rim & tyre limits) and it’ll press the tape down & maximise the seal

    mark90
    Free Member

    Just done the inner tube over night on freshly taped rim, also helps shape the tyre if new. After that the new Shorty went up first time with track pump and a squirt of soapy water to lube the bead. Not a hit of sealant escaping. I’ll probably find it flat in a pool of sealant on the morning now having said that.

    daern
    Free Member

    I’ve never felt the need to do the innertube trick, mostly for two reasons:

    1. My tape is always put on super tight (think, banjo string!) so it’s not going to settle much more than it does when put on
    2. I nearly always seem to end up doing it at the last minute, so the gap from putting the tape on to riding the bike is measured in minutes rather than days 🙂

    Never had any issues with leakage through the rim, only through the bead.

    PJM1974
    Free Member

    I feel the OP’s pain, despite being tubeless for nearly ten years, it can be a very frustrating exercise.

    Last weekend, I had six goes at getting a tyre to seat on the rim. Each time, the tyre deflated almost immediately. I must have gone through three reels of electrical tape, but the issue was the sealant I was using – it wasn’t viscous enough to slop around the inside of the rim and seal a tiny gap in between the rim tape and the valve.

    Back to the OP – Electrical tape should be stretched as it’s wound round the rim. I’ve even seen a freshly inflated tyre force the electrical tape to bulge into the spoke holes and force a puncture. There’s no sealing that, it’s a case of starting over and salvaging as much sealant as possible. If you’re using the correct rim tape, then this should be less of an issue, unless the tyre bead is forcing the tape to bunch up and is exposing spoke holes.

    When tubeless goes pear-shaped, it’s an absolute massive bellend.

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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