Hey gang,
Last year I went tubeless on my Rose Tusker the ghetto way…I like it so much I decided to change my sons On One fatty trails to the same.
I did the front wheel no probs….the rear wheel just won’t hold air..its a On One wheel with jumbo Jim tyre…ive used all my Co2 cannisters on it 6 in total, I even went down to the petrol station and used their air ..£1 ?wtf ..and that was useless as it only pumps air for about 2 seconds stops then another 2 seconds…useless
Have you guys got any tips …..?

Garage air lines aren’t compressors any more, they are inflators, you need one with an air tank for a decent sustained flow. A car tyre place would be a good bet.

However, the one thing I’ve always done to get stubborn tubeless seated is use an innertube first then take it out without breaking one of the beads. You’ve halved the air loss while inflating that way.

Yeah as above. You need a compressor or an Airshot pump.

In addition to the above, I found that filling the valley of the rim with foam camping mat or similar really helped carry the ghetto tube and stop it falling inwards of the tyre bead.

Another technique is to seat the tyre as best you can and put a roofrack type strap around the outside of the tyre and cinch it up a bit.
This helps the initial blast of air to pop the beads out and not get lost in the large volume of a fatty tyre.

Removing the valve core also helps with that initial pop you need.

Some great tips there guys , I will give them a go and report back which works….Im going riding tomoz….my so is giving me evils coz he can’t come..ha ha ha

Have a look at this vid from bikepacking.com, used it on my fat bike and regular MTB and worked.

Mmm…the wheel I had inflated went down the next day…today my 30 16g co2 cannisters arrived so I thought I would start with the wheel ihad already inflated, added 60ml of stans….nah!!
Took out the valve core, tried again…fail
Used my ratchet strap on one side…still fail
How can a tyre that gad previously inflated now not!!
Is it 4.8 jumbo Jim tyres aren’t great for tubeless?….so far I have wasted 7 cannisters of co2…

Does the bead appear to be seating?

Does it hold air long enough to spray the whole tyre/rim with dilute soapy liquid so you can spot bubbles?

Is this the split-innertube process?

If not, what tape are you using? Is it a single-wall rim? and What valves are you using and are they threaded right down to the rubber bung?

If it previously inflated, is there any old sealant stuck to the tyre bead that’s stopping it sealing?

cheekyget
Free Member

Is it 4.8 jumbo Jim tyres aren’t great for tubeless?

They;re great imo, even the really lightweight one. Which exact rims is it?

Fatbike rims just tend not to be great for tubeless unless they were designed for it, and also the sheer size of everything makes it much harder to get the tyre to bead on- you can have gaps between tyre and rim that are 10 times the size of what you get with a normal wheel and tyre. Which is where foam and whatnot can really come in as they just fill up that gap

Hi Guys….the rims are On one , I used the foam insert and spilt tube ghetto way, same as I have done on my own fatbike ….but my bike I have dt swiss wheels and maxxis tyres, and it was so easy, which is why I decided to change my sons….starting to regret it now …lol

What exactly is happening when you try?

Is it just not going up from flat, or does it go up and then deflate over time?

I’ve done ghetto tubeless before where the overlap of the tube has been a bit on the tight side and so as you inflate, you get problems with the tube edges popping back inside the bead and not holding air.
You need a nice wide tube really then trim off the excess later.

Getting ripples can also happen if the tube is a bit baggy.
Most people recommend going down a wheel size in tube so that it stretches taught.
For example, a 24″ tube on a 26″ wheel.

When the tube overlap has been borderline with me before, I’ve given it the minimum air needed to seat it, and then tried to manually tease out any slight ripples by pulling on the excess tube, then inflating fully.

Filling the rim valley with foam helps an awful lot with this issue as the tube doesn’t tend to pull in so much.

It can be hard to get suitable tubes. They’re rarely generous enough in width.

There must be something fairly simple going wrong as the ghetto method is pretty hard to do wrong in my experience.

No tear in the tube is there?

There’s at least 2 on one fatbike rims, if it’s the 80mm ones with the round cutouts (emmenthal?) that’s the same as my old set and they were a pain in the cock, very very loose, but did eventually go with lots of fannying about with foam and innertubes. But the tyres didn’t stay on reliably without pressure, if I got a flat or if they deflated in the garage between rides, they’d generally come off the bead and need to be reseated. Maybe it could have been ghetto’d better than I managed? But I was never really happy with it.

(IIRC the narrower ones that came with the OG fatty were worse? But I never owned a set of those)

The DTs are a different kettle of fish, they were designed with an eye on tubeless- not <quite> tubeless ready but at least tubeless adgacent. There was supposed to be a kit available for them, but for whatever reason DT never produced it, or if they did I’ve never seen it for sale. But they have a better overall fit and the beads are basically tubeless ready and that’s such a massive difference, once they’re on they stay on.

I wouldn’t personally ghetto tubeless those rims again, tubeless readiness is a spectrum and they were a long way from it. I know it’s a big expense but at the same time, unreliable wheels are death to fun.

Hi Guys….the rims are On one , I used the foam insert and spilt tube ghetto way,

Is it definitely seated on top of the tube all of the way round fairly tightly before you start to inflate?

Try putting the tyre fairly central on the rim (covering the valve obvs) and put plenty of washing up liquid on either side to allow the tyre to move smoothly over the tube and act as a slight extra seal.

Morning guys, yes these are the On One rims with circle hole cut outs…the tyres do seem very loose.
What’s happening is nothing loads of co2 noise where its escaping, I’m guessing it’s escaping from too many places to see.
With my ghetto split tube I have around 15-20mm over lap of the rim.
Maybe over the weekend I’ll get my son to help hold the tyre on the rim while I blast co2 into it

I would try a strap around the tyre to hold in the central tread section a bit and then I think you need a proper compressor.
I don’t reckon your little Co2 canisters will do it.

Maybe try a local tyre fitter or some industrial place that’ll have an airline.
Remove the valve and give it a blast.

Or you know, fire.

Anywhere near Warwick and I’d help (minus the fire)

In my experience, if the tyre isn’t reasonably tight against the rim/inner tube strip then you’ll spend a new wheel’s worth of cost in camping mats, inner tubes, CO2 cannisters, sealant, blood, sweat and tears.

If the tyre is slightly baggy when you start then you’re on a hiding to nothing. Perhaps try another wrap of foam to pad out the tube closer to the tyre but if it’s still loose – give it up as a bad job or get a different wheel.

Good news…one of my mates has a compressor and lent it to me last night…took a while but I got the both wheel blown up….the rear took ages and the only way that worked was to put a strap around it…but we got it done
The success was short lived because 3hrs later the rear wheel was flat even with Stans inside.
The reason is because the rear is a On One wheel , but the front stayed hard and that reason is because its a Rose Tusker wheel…so take note peeps
Hope this helps save someone a load of time and money.

Thanks for all the help guys….now I’m off out , to get muddy

The reason is because the rear is a On One wheel

Doubtful imho. The whole reason that the ghetto tubeless method works is that it’s a closed system. You’re effectively creating a chamber with the split tube and tyre together. In other words, the wheel doesn’t really have much to do.

Sure, it needs the rim wall to force the two parts to be crushed together at the ‘seam’ but as long as the rim wall is sticking up enough, this shouldn’t be an issue.

I’d be surprised if it was the brand of wheel that’s causing the issue.
I’ve always had more trouble trying to seat used tyres. Often they’re just a bit too baggy.

I gotta say the tyre on the On One wheel was so loose, you wouldn’t need tools to remove it….the split tube method is great and on the one on wheel there was almost 20mm over hang…I put in 80ml of Stans in it, sprayed my washing up mix around the rims ….blew it up with the compressor then reached max tyre pressure with the floor pump…it was solid, spun the wheel to spread the stans around ….no leaks where found/noticeable….and yet it only lasted 3hrs…..
The front tusker wheel done the exact same way…it still solid,
Conclusion is the On One wheel is not great…..or Its me….jury’s out..lol

I’d say it’s likely to be your tyre.
I reckon if you had a newey you’d be grand.

Your probably right… but as things stand as they are, I wouldn’t have any confidence with the OnOne wheel as tubless, one puncture could turn into a long walk home.

Incidentally I got a puncture on Sunday with my Maxxis fat tyres, the puncture got sealed OK but the pressure was well low but quick blast with co2 topped it up nicely….but If this was the OnOne wheel that tyre would have fallen off the rim