I’ve no idea what a “commercial grade paint thinner” is, but why would you use that to remove glue? you need a degreaser.
and as others have said, just bung a couple of tubes in and go enjoy your bike…chances are you wouldn’t be able to tell if it was running tubeless or not

When tubeless goes bad it can be a nightmare to put right, I had a summer faffing around with a set of Stan’s Arch rims and electrical tape which would deflate and unstick themselves every single ride.

I ended up removing the tape and cleaning the rims thoroughly using surgical spirit and soapy water until I was confident that all the adhesive and sealant had been removed. Paint thinner is likely to be oil based and therefore it’s going to make the problem worse.

I bought a roll of orange Tesa tape from Amazon, so far so good – my Arch rims haven’t lost any pressure over the last couple of weeks.

The OP’s LBS are clearly being numpties, but for the sake of all the hassle it’s worth trying to fix yourself if you can.

Soapy water, then IPA (I get it in bulk from the GF’s business, but you should be able to get it from Maplins etc).

^^^This – although not Maplins as they don’t exist….
You can get IPA from Amazon etc.

The amount of time spent coming and going to the shop, you could have done it properly yourself.

^^^This – although not Maplins as they don’t exist….
You can get IPA from Amazon etc.

Every day is indeed a school day. Not sure how I failed to notice that.

Try Rumbelows, I’m sure they stock it, behind the video recorders.

Radio Shack?

Seriously, either do it yourself, or just put tubes in (it doesn’t make that much difference) and ride your bike.

It’s not unusual for tubeless tyres to do down if they are not ridden much.

A 2018 orange should definitely have “tubeless ready” tyres and rims – no need for a 2010 ghetto solution.

I’m a bit disappointed that orange doesn’t supply the rims taped and ready to go, with some valves in a box. (I know they cant ship them tubeless, as they’ll go flat sitting for months).

If you have got the rims clean by whatever method – and slick like an ice rink – you’ll want to sandpaper them down to a rough finish, so the tape grips.

For what its worth, I love gorilla tape on my hope tech enduro 23mms – they have a really angular internal profile, found the regular tape would lift off when removing tyres.

Of had any issues with Gorilla tape either…

Think it’s a mite unreasonable asking for a new wheel. Maximum you should really expect is a refund of the price you paid to get the shop to make them tubeless.

Maplin might not be on the high street anymore but they are definitely trading online:

https://www.maplin.co.uk/

Ok with tubeless if your not prepared to do it yourself then you should stick with tubes imo. And always carry a spare.

Isn’t WD40/GT85 on a washing up sponge the best for removing sticky stuff, followed up with hot soapy water then a good blast of disc brake cleaner.

Ok with tubeless if your not prepared to do it yourself then you should stick with tubes imo. And always carry a spare.

we all started somewhere – on my first tubeless bike (I bought second hand) I paid for the sealant to be changed, was too scared to take the tyre off the rim. Irrational fears of looking like a plasterers radio with a tyre I couldn’t re-seat without a compressor.

I remember my first time bleeding brakes, took me 2 hours.

5 Years later I can do everything* bar major suspension servicing and building a wheel from scratch. Will be doing frame bearings myself next time around.

If I never tried, I’d never learn, and would probably still be suffering with tubes to this day.

*everything is predicated on having selected bike components partly for ease of servicing. Lots of Hope, screw in BB and externally routed cables in my life.

OP. Where are you based…?  I would be happy if near Brum to give you a hand and at the same time, show you how to do it.

OP. Where are you based…? I would be happy if near Brum to give you a hand and at the same time, show you how to do it.

If you read the OP’s comment from the previous page:

I’ve fitted tubeless myself on at least 8 bikes in the last 10 years with 100% success.

johnnystorm

Maplin might not be on the high street anymore but they are definitely trading online:

https://www.maplin.co.uk/

Well smack my ass and call me Charlie…..
Everyday is indeed a school day.

End of my tether with LBS – any ideas?

Afraid not ?

A bit late now I guess, but a heatgun is good for removing Gorilla tape without leaving a residue.
Some rims are just terrible for sticking Stans tape on. Rather than resorting to Gorilla tape, I tend to tightly wrap one layer of electrical tape over the spoke holes. This then gives something for the Stans tape to stick to and no issues with it sticking to the sides of the rim. I’ve had 100% success rate doing this with temperamental rims.

Maplin might not be on the high street anymore but they are definitely trading online:

That’s not “Maplin”. That’s just someone who has bought the URL.

Some rims are just terrible for sticking Stans tape on. Rather than resorting to Gorilla tape, I tend to tightly wrap one layer of electrical tape over the spoke holes. This then gives something for the Stans tape to stick to and no issues with it sticking to the sides of the rim. I’ve had 100% success rate doing this with temperamental rims.

A few layers of electrical tape is plenty for MTB pressures anyway. I’ve only had it fail when I tried it on a road bike.

brand newly set up tubeless wheels ime need a good ride to adequately distribute the sealant, leaving then “a few weeks” before riding will almost certainly leave them flat

Most def, I also find that I need to top up the sealent if the tyres been a bit of pig as well.

Just for clarification, as always, Gorilla is the brand and they have many tape products, the proper tape to use is the clear stuff and not the cloth tape.

Few bits of advice from my own experience:

If a rim is a bugger to get Stans / Tesa 4289 stuck to it (and let’s be honest, it’s the least sticky sticky tape ever created!), rub the surface up with a bit of medium-grain sandpaper and wash down with IPA. In fact, I generally just clean up rims with IPA as people have said above and have rarely had to use anything more aggressive than this, but my next escalation would be Screwfix’s awesome degreaser, which is cheap as chips, great for cleaning stuff and doesn’t leave residue.

Ultimately, if it just isn’t happening, then stick a tube in it and go for a ride instead. My son’s wheels fall into this category and while they are very light, they just won’t do tubeless without a level of faff that I just don’t want to experience at the trail-side. I just use Conti’s lightweight tubes instead and in 3 years I think he’s only pinch flatted once or twice, so I don’t lose sleep about it any more.

For the sake of multiple 2 hour round trips, just fix it yourself. Lifes too short.