The other thing you may have issues with is the diameter of the shock body in the middle of the stroke where the shock swings closest to the frame. You can put an offset bush in the front mount to bring the shock down away from the tube but not alter the “length”, it will have the added bonus of fractionally reduce the regression on the linkage rate as it brings the shock slightly more in to the tangent of the rocker at the end of the stroke.

G150 and 160 are quite different in regards to linkage.

Oh and bumbag for the water bottle gains huge amounts of room in the frame and saves weight on the bike…

Oh and bumbag for the water bottle

stop right there.

@mashr- care to share which bottle cage etc you used? Would love to squeeze a bottle in on mine but every option I tried didn’t work.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kBSdAd]2021-02-15_12-00-43[/url] by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

Decathlon own side mount bottle cage. The water bottle is a Hoy. 450ml. I’ll try and see if my 550-600s fit when the DVO is on on Weds.

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kneebiscuit
Full Member

@mashr- care to share which bottle cage etc you used? Would love to squeeze a bottle in on mine but every option I tried didn’t work.

Wolftooth adapter
Specialized Zee cage
Elite Fly bottle (Prime Race appears to be identical, but not actually any cheaper)
All on a medium frame. Looks like:

G160 bottle

Thanks for that. I have the Monarch piggy back shock and I think the piggyback is a bit longer than the fox, hence my struggles. Shame.

I’m thinking of getting a coil for my 27.5 Jeffsy which is a very progressive frame, apparently quite well suited to a coil, thought I’d piggyback off this thread! Anyone have experience with the rockshox superdeluxe ultimate?

BPW fitted a factory DPX2 to my G160S (size medium) over lunch mid Mini-Enduro after the Monarch collapsed and they never mentioned anything about filing mounts. I never noticed that they had but it did get stolen only 2 weeks later.

That DPX2 was a massive improvement over the Monarch but unfortunately I obviously cannot speak for longevity 🙁

I believe I still have the box in the garage if any numbers of it would help.

I’m ok thanks Baldie, i went for the DVO Topaz.

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baldiebenty
Free Member

BPW fitted a factory DPX2 to my G160S (size medium) over lunch mid Mini-Enduro after the Monarch collapsed and they never mentioned anything about filing mounts. I never noticed that they had but it did get stolen only 2 weeks later

They definitely did, it’s miles from being able to put the shock bolt through otherwise

Well the DVO purchase fell apart, so once again we’re in a shock quandry.

So last night about 8pm i pressed the button on a Cane Creek DB IL Air Black, 216*63.

This morning the guys at Jtech called me with “shock is delayed, it’s due now in about a month, it’s held up in transit”

Shhhhesh. Not their fault, just the world in which we find ourselves currently as we all know.

Now weirdly I blew some air at the little holes that some people report as getting blocked on the Monarch shocks and, well, the Monarch is working like a charm currently. But I’ve mostly lost faith in it. However as I say, it is currently working fine, but for how long is anyones guess.

The great news is, Jtech will sort the warranty process for me if I want the Monarch doing for nothing more than the price if postage. Which is brilliant of them, but leaves me in a minor quandary now.

The weather next week is looking far more friendly and it’d be a shame to miss it all. So maybe the plan is to leave the DB air order in place and see if the monarch holds out until that arrives, then send it off for warranty once it does.
Jtech are also looking into their stock to see what they do have in 216*63 I can get right away, but I’m guessing, not much.

Then i spoke to TFTuned and they say they have a 216*63 DB air in stock and ready to ship…. So do i wait for J-tech, do i get the DB air from TFT or do i see if the Monarch stays alive for more than an hour LOL.
It really shouldn’t be this complicated i know… but yet somehow this is where we find ourselves LOL.

if you want to ride now,
Get the tf tuned shock.
Get the monarch fixed.
Either keep both or sell one.

I have ended up with 3 shocks down to this method, then broke my frame twice!

Get the tf tuned shock.
Get the monarch fixed.

Yeah that’s the road i’ve gone down. Ordered it from TFTuned.

not read the whole thread, has anyone mentioned fitting a progressive spring? that would help with the regressive rate

I’ve just bit the bullet too and ordered a new shock from TF Tuned, RS Super Deluxe Ultimate RCT Coil. Unfortunately they’re not getting any in stock until June but I’m happy to have it on preorder. Can’t wait for it to be summer now!

They were super helpful when I called them too, really friendly and knowledgeable.

Progressive spring was mentioned but Jtech and TFTuned said to go air. So the shock will arrive on Tues. Luckily I’ve got other bikes if my riding buddy plays out.

I may even throw some air in my boys SWorks and try it out. I’ve not ridden it with correct pressure in it.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kEPNWF]2021-02-25_03-30-07[/url] by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

Well the lovely Kashima coated shock arrived and based upon early testing, i love it. It seems more plush than the RC3, which i’ll find out more when i ride in anger tomorrow with the Shockwiz on 🙂

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kF6GEV]G160 fox rp23[/url] by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

Pretty darn happy with that for first try 🙂 not far off at all. I’m getting better at this 🙂

Thought you ordered a DB for TF?

I did, but we had a few delivery/sending issues so it was cancelled.

With needing a new shock for the Sworks too as the Ohlins died, plus a BikeYoke, it made more sense in the end cost wise as the RP23 was a refurbished one for £150, the new RS for the Sworks was £125 and the Bikeyoke £95, so came in about the same price as a new DB IL Air. Meaning we don’t need to spend another £360 on a shock for his Sworks, sometimes you can’t have the best and shiniest.

I’ve also got the Monarch RC3 which i’ll get back sometime from SRAM which will act as an emergency spare for both our bikes

Just to say I had a rockshox monarch rl that wore out very quickly on my Kona Process 134 (2016 old frame design).

There was some discussion about maybe my frame being misalignment or the suspension design being an issue when I posted about it on here.

I fitted a fox dpx2 and it has lasted much better. TfTuned said it’s insides were immaculate at the last service.

So I think either the monarch shock is rubbish, or there were some duff batches!?

Some rave about the Monarch RC3, it’s supposed to be a great shock. However, the RP23 deffo feels nicer than the RC3 did to me. I won’t actualy fit it unless we have to once it comes back from SRAM. If i thought anyone would give me a decent price i’d sell it LOL.

Well jeepers this saga is on-going WAY more than i’d like.

I bought and fitted the Kashima RP23, really nice, really plush and excellent. It also allowed me to run a proper sized water bottle, again, GREAT.

However, 2nd time on the bike i re-set up with Shockwiz, which means you cycle the suspension without air in to measure the stroke etc. After that i have sucky/squelchy noise, which is somewhat irritating, well more than somewhat actually… VERY irritating.

So it’s going back to the service center i got it from to either be repaired, replaced or refunded. Dunno which at this stage.

Good news is, the Monarch RC3+ came back from SRAM and is sorted, i was going to sell it to a forum guy, but i’ve now had to fit to the G-160 while the Fox is away.

I must admit, i’m sitting here thinking “Sod it, i’m going to buy the bloody coil shock” even though it’s thought to not fit the profile and suspension style of the bike, it would at least remove this issue with having shocks irritating me lots.

Happily, the RC3+ is quiet and i know it works well (when it’s working anyway) so i’ll happily run it at the moment for sure. But i must admit, my confidence in it isn’t high.

Bit of an update on this saga.

The RC3+ was a pain because i couldn’t run a water bottle… simply doesn’t fit in the frame unless 400ml… which was also then still a nightmare to get in and out. So the RC3+ was sold on.

I ran the Fox RP23 until today… because yesterday (or earlier in week) it started with the slushy noise again so that’s going back to the guy i bought it from and being repaired or possibly even replaced with something to use as a spare.

In the meantime i decided it was time to man up with the wallet and a Cane Creek DB IL Air has been ordered from TFTuned. MTBing is my main activity and expense and sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and get the bank account out

You should try and tune it yourself using the CC guide before attaching the shockwiz to it.

You should try and tune it yourself using the CC guide before attaching the shockwiz to it.

Sounds like a plan… well it would if my lad hadn’t lost my sodding shock pump in the last week, so i’ll have to borrow one from a mate.

Lol this is getting **** silly now. Bloke I got the RP23 from sent me a Monarch deluxe RT to replace the faulty rp23. Brilliant, well it would be if it actually fitted lol.
It’s a known issue on Whytes that the yoke only fits specific models, but it can be filed to fit the others. However not this one.
My lad has a Deluxe in his SWorks so i also tried his with my yoke and yup, it doesn’t fit either.

So I’ve now got the following

1. Monarch deluxe RT, doesn’t fit mine but fits my lads nicely
2. Monarch RCT, squelch noise
3. Monarch R, squats no return

2021-05-08_12-51-35 by Steve Weeks – Flickr2BBcode LITE

2021-05-08_12-50-59 by Steve Weeks – Flickr2BBcode LITE

This is an absolute farce !!!

I reckon you’re right buy a coil.
When I had endless ( 4 failures in the space of one cassette) on my bike the accepted wisdom was Ohlins TTX. Which Spec eventually got me.

No idea if it was any good as I got fed up and sold the bike immediately, but some kind chap on STW gave me loads of info which was really helpful.

Weird thing was that some internet random messaged me on Gumtree after it sold, not to buy the bike, but to get the full skinny on what the accepted procedure was to force Spec to provide the TTX as the warranty replacement.

Apparently the Enduro link is rigid in one particular dimension, which it shouldn’t be. It places loads of lateral force on the shock, which the Rockshocks can’t handle.

Could your Whyte have a similar issue?

I think it comes down to some poor luck and some poor decision making.

The RC3+ was the best shock out of the ones i’ve had, but i had issues with that and because it was from Germany it was trickier to warranty, that added to the water bottle/cage issue meant i sold it on.
However, i do have one arriving from Tredz….. Yes an RC3+ Even though it has the bottle/cage issue, it worked well (until it broke)

I can keep the 210*52.5 Deluxe as a spare for my lads bike…. so there’s no big issue there, but i have listed it and will try and get a good price.

My big questions are.
1. Do i send off the RCT and the Monarch R next week to Sprung Suspension for repair.
2. Do i sell the RCT at a loss (been offered £100 on ebay up to now, paid £160 for it)
3. Do i just fit the RC3+ that arrives early next week from Tredz (It’s been shipped by TNT)

Obviously i don’t need the RC3, Monarch R and the RCT for my bike, that’s crazy talk. So i’m leaning towards selling the RCT at a loss, then sending the Monarch R to sprung to see if they can repair it.. If they can, it lives in spares box, if they can’t, well at least we know. Then fitting the RC3+ from Tredz next week and using it until it explodes, or hopefully until it doesn’t explode.

The coil option, every time i think of it, someone from here puts me off them saying about the suspension/linkage/etc not being suited to the Whyte and it will ride badly…But heck i’m not even sure i’m good enough to notice. I also don’t know if i can find a coil at a sensible price at the moment in the right size. I could get the Cane Creek potentially but is that going to be any better/worse than the RC3+, heck i’m so deep into this with shocks i don’t even know the answer any more.

the final curveball is this
https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/bikes/frames/specialized-stumpjumper-evo-carbon-275-frame-set-carbon-satin-carbon__329827

Mmmm new frame, comes with a shock… LOL… But that does then get proper messy as a plan.

Well a couple of the parts of the decision process kinda fell into place by themselves.

I had the Monarch RCT listed on Ebay, it came in at a £35 loss on the purchase price i paid. Funnily enough i was out using it yesterday as it was the only working shock i have currently for the G-160 and it was surprisingly OK, it was only on full take-off/jumps i got slushy noise, it’s literally at the full extension of the shock you get it…. But while i was out riding for 3 hours yesterday, someone bought the shock… So keeping and fixing it has been removed from the discussion.

So i’ve now got the Monarch R booked in with Sprung Suspension on Friday to see if they can repair it.
The RC3+ arrives today, which is brand new from Tredz and will be the shock that stays in the bike… if the Monarch R gets fixed, it’ll stay in the spares box.

someone bought the shock… So keeping and fixing it has been removed from the discussion.

I take it they know it has a squelchy noise?

I know you’ve all gone a bit quiet on this thread… but…

My brand new RC3+ arrived from Tredz, fitted into the bike..

First ride, within 50m it had squat issues. Sag was set to 35% before the ride, pressures in both chambers equalised, So took it for a few kerb jumps as a test…. within 50m it was stuck down. When you jump off the bike it return only to about the 25% sag marker.. then a few mins later it creeps up and up and then eventually reaches full extension.

So i’m chatting with a mate and he says “are you sure it’s not something on your frame, misaligned slightly causing this issue…My answer was no, i know this frame REALLY well and i’m happy everything is correct… But no harm to check of course. So all the rear contact points were stripped, checked, checked again and i then grabbed the Sworks from the other side of the garage. Took the shock out of it and put my shock into it, it’s a faff as all the spacers/bushings are different on both bikes, but it’s not exactly complex.
Once that was done i re-pressured it and took that out too, sadly it’s the same… which means indeed it’s a failed shock.

What’s the chance of that though, got to be pretty low… First ride, first try… dead… WTF.

Spoke to Tredz and they’re collecting the shock tomorrow. But as to what i do now…. I don’t know.

Rang TFTuned and we talked through the options… Which basically was “Monarch RC3+” LOL… The exact same shock i’ve taken off…. more than once now. I tried to persuade her into both the DB IL Air and Coil and they think it won’t fit…

So where does that leave me now… well, god only knows.

I’m honestly sitting here tempted to buy a Bird Aether7 and swap all the bits over onto the Bird frame. I’ve got a spare shock for my lads bike which will fit the Bird frame, the only thing i’d need to do for warranty reasons is get my Yari dropped from 160mm to 150mm or 140mm. Not sure yet just how easy/hard that is. But realistically it can’t be the trickiest job in the world.
I can book a Demo over at Swinley next Saturday for £20 on an Aether7. Me and the lad have time booked at Summit jump area so would be ideal to test one. That said, i’m tempted to just say sod it and get it done today on Birds website lol.

I take it they know it has a squelchy noise?

That’s correct yet. It was advertised truthfully stating it makes a noise.
“Does have a slight squish noise at start of travel but this does in no way affect it’s function”

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274787578261

But it’s nice you seem to make the assumption i’d not been honest 🙂

Just throwing this out there, not trying to influence your decision at all :D. Forks set at 150mm.

First ride on my new Aether 9 was impressive 😉

[url=https://postimages.org/]free image sharing[/url]

Changing an air shaft on the Yari is very easy. If you’ve ever refreshed the oil in the lowers, it’s one extra c-clip and a bit of grease.

Hey Weeksy,

It was the Coil IL you were asking about this am and that we advised you against for the reasons discussed. You also had already had a long chat with Greg previously re. the Air IL and issues re. clearance/ fitment on the yoke etc. We still have the Air IL that he prepped for you good to go – but you will need to run through the clearance/ orientation checks that he talked you through before riding it. Fine to return if it doesn’t clear. Otherwise as discussed we can source your another Monarch Plus that you will know will go straight on.

Or maybe you just need one of those up there ^^^^^ from the lovely people at Bird 😉

Cheers, Ruth @TFT

Hi TFT, yep it was me this morning.

In honesty i’m a bit bloody lost as to what route to take at the moment. Obviously i can get a replacement Monarch + from Tredz, but reallly, this is the 2nd i’ve had fail and this one didn’t even last 100m. So i don’t want to take the chance on it.

The DB IL Air is clearly a great choice…. if it fits… and that’s the issue.. I don’t want to get it, mark it, then have you say “sorry, that’s not as new, can’t accept it back”. That’s not a slight on you by the way, just the luck i’m having with this at the moment.

I do wonder how the Aether7 will ride in terms of me getting down stuff, i’m slightly worried it’ll feel compromised, however it shouldn’t as it’s a more slack geometry than both the T-130 and the G-160. The question is, does the G-160 feel better at the tricky stuff because of the head angle/geometry or because of the travel. The odds are it’s the geometry i’d think. Which implies to me that the Bird will be great. Obviously all the bits from the current G-160 will swap straight over.

I’ve not done anything on the fork lowers, i think i’d have to take my forks to my friendly bloke at Rotec Cycles to do them for me…. unless i can persuade the lads at Bird to if i buy their frame and collect it LOL. They’ve got pink Aethers in, which is lairy enough for me to like 🙂 I’ve also got a rear shock in spares and confirmed with Ben at Bird will fit and work in the frame… so it’d just be a question of putting it together and rebleeding the brake as it’s in the frame on the G-160. I’d also need a seatpost shim from 30.9>31.6 but that’s pretty simple as we all know.

Feel like I’m repeating myself but the Birds just work. Yokes really just create another issue, there is no need for them- more tolerances to be out and the excessive wear is a common theme. Bird are ace to deal with and its not going to be the bike that holds you back.

Sounds like TFT are doing all they can to help as usual- but I can understand the worry on fitment compatability.

Feel like I’m repeating myself

Apologies for making you feel like that.. I’m happy to throw money at problems and solutions, but i do like to think i’ve given things thought and discussions before jumping feet first into things 🙂

The biggest issue has been that i do love the G-160 as a bike to ride… but i could also argue that the T-130 was/is the better bike for my needs.

Haha sorry, that wasn’t aimed at you- just the second time (on seperate threads) I’ve praised Bird bikes.

Don’t worry about what should be a better match- the weight etc on 130 vs 160mm frames is so minimal in a lot of cases, if you have fun on a bike that’s the important thing. Bikes like the Aether and perhaps the T130 to some degree are pretty versatile as plenty of options when it comes to component choice etc.