Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Dura ace 9000 C24 or handbuilt??
  • cheeezzy24
    Free Member

    I can get the C24’s for around £500 or do I go handbuilt for the same price? Any ideas, this is my first upgrade from aksium race. Will be used for a bit of everything really!

    Daffy
    Full Member
    carbonfiend
    Free Member

    I’ve got c24’s so far been great wheel fast and stiff hit a few potholes hard as well & still true, they are carbon laminate though as that does scuff a bit in case that bothers you ?

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middling Edition

    Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...
    Latest Singletrack Videos
    m1kea
    Free Member

    I’ve had a pair of the 7850 versions for 5 years. Been very reliable but quite flexy if you’re an out of the saddle pedal masher

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Handbuild, the carbon laminates apparently aren’t that durable for everyday use, I think here’s an ultegra level wheel that uses an alloy rim if you want to go the Shimano route (I’ve got RS61’s as my spare wheels and R-550 as my spare spares, they’re perfectly adequate).

    I’ve got handbuilts as my sunday best wheels, <1300g, tubeless and <£300, what’s not to like (durability of stans rims may be questionable)?

    Depends what you want to use them for, if it’s everyday in winter then the lower end shimano are cheap enough to be disposable when the rims wear out in 5000miles or so, but Stans Alphas may only last ~2000miles in the same conditions, but do make for a phenomenally light summer wheel set, conversely the DA9000 wheels aren’t that light and would be horrifically expensive as winter wheels, and more sensible A23/archetype/open-pro based build would last longer and allow cheap rim replacements.

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    More info needed, but no point getting light wheels if you’re heavy.

    If you ride a fair bit through all weathers; I’d get some 32 spoke Archetypes. Solid, reliable, stiff, not particularly light (but lighter than the Aksiums), you can smash them through potholes all day and they won’t flinch.

    Or get some Zondas and save your money.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Dura Ace hubs (24 spoke), Sapim Race or laser spokes and nice rims was my choice; 200g heavier, beautiful rolling and bombproof. Mine finished Paris-Roubaix without incident. I’ve also raced them in road races.

    Great wheels. You can go for carbon rims if you want lighter or more aero, but the hubs are lovely to ride on. I wouldn’t go back to factory wheels unless they came with a bike (like my old and new Giant PSLR aeros)

    jonba
    Free Member

    I have the RS80s which used to use the same rims. They are nice wheels. Can feel the difference between them and my 32h hand builts. The RS80s feel smoother/more forgiving on rough roads despite having 23mm not 25mm tyres on. However, as an everyday set of wheels they are not so good. Rims are thin to save weight and so after 3 years summer use (admittedly racing, occasionally in the wet) they are nearing the end of their life.

    My personal preference would be good hand builts as you can re use the hubs and replace the rims as needed.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    More info needed, but no point getting light wheels if you’re heavy.

    I disagree, I’m 95-100kg and mine have been fine, the only lighter options are carbon or tubs, it’s all in the build and watching where you’re going, no wheel will survive pothole after pothole.

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    I disagree, I’m 95-100kg and mine have been fine, the only lighter options are carbon or tubs, it’s all in the build and watching where you’re going, no wheel will survive pothole after pothole.

    Do you ever climb out of the saddle? I had some stans rims with some lightish spokes (24/28) and they were fairly useless thinking about it. Brake rub out of the saddle, front wheel just felt a bit sketchy in general. think I was about 70kg when I owned them. A few kgs heavier now , and the archetypes are well solid.

    STL
    Full Member

    I replaced Stans with 24/28 combo with C24 after having scary nasty shimmy incidents. Not missed a beat having hit potholes that loosened by handlebars! Love the tubeless version. I’m only about 60kg though.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Do you ever climb out of the saddle? I had some stans rims with some lightish spokes (24/28) and they were fairly useless thinking about it. Brake rub out of the saddle, front wheel just felt a bit sketchy in general. think I was about 70kg when I owned them. A few kgs heavier now , and the archetypes are well solid.

    I’m a masher, I can’t make them rub on the pads, mine are 24/28, and use DT Rev’s too.

    However it did take 3 attempts to build them like that, the first two were true and tensioned fairly evenly (within any guidelines I’d read or wheels I’d measured) but flexed horribly, the third time I tightened them 1/4 turn at a time, checked trueness/tension each time round and they went together perfectly. I’m no expert wheelbuilder but IME light rims really do require some special attention.

    I’d rule them out of all-weather use on durability grounds, and I’d probably consider chinese carbon rims for sunday best next time, and they weren’t cheap compared to other heavier alloy rims, but they’re definitely stiff enough and have stayed true.

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

The topic ‘Dura ace 9000 C24 or handbuilt??’ is closed to new replies.