OK, so the usual answer is a resounding NO, but this wheel’s a bit different.

I got some bargain 525g 35mm internal rims (Gipiemme Mag40) which are potentially going to be a bit fragile at that weight (for context the equivalent WTB rim is 670g). But the rims owe me nothing and I already have hubs so really these wheels are going to cost me only the spokes and some axle adaptors so I’m happy to risk it a little. Not like I’m risking £80/rim Stans Flows.

Reasons to use Revolutions:
-The wheelset using the same rim uses 2.0/1.5/2.0 spokes
-Thinner spokes mean lower peak forces during riding because each individual spoke can stretch and the rim transfers the load across them.
-It’s a 32h rim so plenty of spokes.
-It’s an asymmetric rim, and standard hubs with boost adaptors, spoke angle/tension should come out very close to equal, unlikely to need to go above ~75-80kgf even on the drive side rear.

Reasons not to:
-Received wisdom says it’s a bad idea.

[edit following the revelation that they’re actually revolutions]

Revolutions could be a revelation!

Probably has a LOT to do with the skill of the builder too.

I’d go ACI or DT Comps, or if you really want light spokes, go for DT Super Comps.

I spent years xc racing on hub xc hubs with DT revolution spokes laced to 717 rims and never had an issue. I was hardly doing massive hucks, but in between they survived my everyday riding around the Peak. For year’s I wouldn’t have considered anything else, think it was only the growth in more factory wheels and the more kids v cost equation that moved me away from them.

Thinner spokes mean lower peak forces during riding because each individual spoke can stretch and the rim transfers the load across them.

I’d do it. The only difference is how much they stretch when built really, and if you consider that spokes only stretch ca. 1mm when built up, you’re looking at a 0.5mm difference in stretch for 1.5mm vs. 1.8mm, so I doubt it makes much difference in practice. As you say it will change the way the load is transferred from rim to spoke, but almost certainly in a good way.

All of my MTB and Road Wheels (probably 20+ sets of wheels) have been built with either DT Revs, Sapim D-Light (my current favourite) or CX Rays I’ve never had a spoke break or them go seriously out of true.

I would say that light spokes build best with stiff rims. The hardest wheel I ever built was a 32h 29er Crest rim with DT Revs and a hub with small flanges. Getting a stiff wheel within the allowable spoke tension for the rim was difficult.

Sapim d-light are an in between option.

I would say that light spokes build best with stiff rims. The hardest wheel I ever built was a 32h 29er Crest rim with DT Revs and a hub with small flanges. Getting a stiff wheel within the allowable spoke tension for the rim was difficult.

My first attempt at road wheels were Stans Alpha 340 on some small flange hubs with DT revs. Took 4 attempts to get it right. In the end did the drive side to an even 50% with the NDS completely loose, nipped up the NDS spokes then tensioned them 1/4 turn at a time, only doing any that were below average tension on each pass round the wheel, then 1/8th turns when the DS tension got to about 75%. Took ages but have actually been really reliable and acceptably stiff since then.

Have Stans Olympics built with DT Revs and aluminium nipple on my xc bike, Been running these for 8 years plus with no problems.

I have built mtb wheels with revs and they worked. It ought to help with the non-drive side rear spokes as for the tension they will be more stretched. In fact I think some builders would use them just for those spokes (or maybe I imagined that).

I also agree with @Daffy that they would go well with stiff rims, where forces will be spread over more spokes. I used them on my most recent build, which was Nextie Alligator carbon plus width rims. Wheels are still stiff and give a harder ride than ali rims would I think.

I’ve attempted a few DT Revs builds, but even with 32 holes they needed constant attention on the drive side – replaced with regular double-butted and they’ve been fine ever since. I agree that a stiffer rim helps – notoriously flexy rims like Stans Alpha would be pretty hopeless

notoriously flexy rims like Stans Alpha would be pretty hopeless

Haha, so the consensus is that if I can build the alphas with revs then I can do anything!

In theory the rims and spokes should be equally stiff. If you build a stiff rim with too few spokes then you get brake rub (with rim brakes) as the wheel twists and that deflection gets transferred to the top of the wheel. Shouldn’t be an issue with disc wheels though.

And the alpha wheels have been fine, they dont feel flexy, presumably becauee the rim doesnt transmit that deflection across the wheel and rub on the brakes.

I’ve used them, more xc, been fine.

I wouldn’t bother these days unless the whole bike is light – you’ll save like 125gm over the pair?

Used to use these back in the day on 217’s & American Classic and later on Hope disc and 217’s.  Were absolutely fine.  The Hope 217’s were still tight and true 2 years ago and they were built in 2000 and were handed down to my brother for front-line use for a lot of that time – probably 2004 to 2012!