- DT 5.1D Rims
Tightest. Rim. EVER!
Seriously though, they’re a royal pain in the arse to fit tyres onto. Even worse (impossible with some tyres) when using the DT/Eclipse tubeless rimstrip. Now I can usually get tyres on and off UST rims without tyre levers, but I couldn’t get a Bontrager TR tyre on a 5.1 with the tubeless rimstrip at all. It just would not go on!Posted 9 years agolank45Member
they are tight, I’m the same as Repack broken numerous tyre levers fitting tyres. Decided to put some soft compound intense on the other day, took an hour and I aren’t sure if the tyres are a little overkill for the time being. One things for sure they aren’t coming off as that would result in another hour of my life lost!Posted 9 years agomboySubscriber
Yeah that was one of the main reasons that I sold my set, just too much faff.
Changed over to Mavic EN521’s, same width, welded, only 40g heavier but a lot tougher (being as Mavics are made out of proper ally not cheese), and easier to get tyres on and off. Have managed to successfully go ghetto on these rims too, so no proper tubeless strip needed even, saving yet more money (EN521’s are about half the price of a DT5.1 anyway).Posted 9 years agoGarry_LagerSubscriber
UST with a rim strip was unbelievably tight on the 5.1 – unworkably so. Had to bin the UST because there’s no way I was wrestling with that on the trail in the event of a puncture. Stuck an old conti gravity on it with a tube for the time being, not so bad but still tight, you’d need levers to mount it.Posted 9 years agoBlurboySubscriber
I am running the 4.2’s with Panaracer Cinders 2.1’s. These are also very tight…you learn very quickly not to get a punture in the middle of winter! Run Mavis 717’s with same tyres on tother bike and rarely use tyre leavers. So the Swiss are tight and the French a tad loose??Posted 9 years agoBearBackMember
5.1’s with almost all Kenda folding beads, nothing more than fingers, on and off.
Kenda Karma on 5.1 or 4.2, you can literally shake them off.
Conversely, 6.1 with Kenda wire bead… simply ridiculous! 3 pairs of hands, MX levers and usually at least one pinched tube per tyre swap!Posted 9 years agoauricgoldfingerSubscriber
Yes, had issues with swampthing and highrollers on them. That was until I bought a pedros tyre lever. That thing is absolute magic, and despite what you might think about it I’ve never damaged a rim with it. Just the job for getting stubborn tyres on these rims (or any others).Posted 9 years agoTandemJeremyMember
Bill oddie – sorry it ain’t. I have never had issue getting tyres on and off until I got 5.1s with tubeless rim strips. I been changing tyres for 40 yrs and these are an utter swine. contis seem to be the worst. some tyres are OK but some are almost impossible.
The same tyre – actual tyre not just type – that goes on a mavic 721 without any hassle – indeed tends to fall off until its inflated is really difficult to get on the 5.1s. Combination of shallow well that is full of tubeless rimstrip and big diameter. I guess there is some tolerance in the rims a well.Posted 9 years agodangerousbeansMember
Got loads of tyres on and off DT5.1’s no problem by hand.
Tried to get UST Nobby Nics on them with DT’s own tubeless kit, managed to get one bead over but couldn’t get the other side on.
Nor could I get the initially installed bead off – ended up cutting off the tyre after 3 hours with 3 tyre levers.
Want to go tubeless and was thinking of Ignitor LUST – anyone know if these will be easier than the Nics, don’t want to have to cut another tyre up.
If this don’t work then 2 DT Swiss tubeless kits will be going cheap on the classifieds.Posted 9 years agostevomcdSubscriber
I’ve had Conti Gravities, Diesels and Verticals plus Maxxis HighRollers (2.5 UST’s) on mine (all tubeless with DT rimstrips).
I’m not going to claim it’s been problem-free, because I’ve also ended up spending half and hour cursing at the side of a trail, but I’ve also noticed that the same tyre will go on/off next time with no problems at all. Can only assume they need some more precise technique than normal.
Genuinely, I’ve been snapping tyre levers as above one minute, got another flat half an hour later and been able to get the tyre on/off by hand. Can only think I’m missing something, wish I knew what it was! Now if it’s really tight I stop, jiggle it a bit more, then try again. Usually don’t have any problems.Posted 9 years agoJamesMMember
I posed this very same question a couple of months ago.
Followed advice and am having great success with Panaracer Fire XC Pro, 2.1K tyres.
But I cannot for the life of me get a set of WTB Motoraptors on, either 2.1 or 2.24’s without a very great deal of faffing about.
Not a recommended rim by any means.Posted 9 years agoChristowkidMember
I had problems originally with Spesh Captain 2bliss, and another 30 min struggle and a snapped tyre lever!Posted 9 years ago
The older ( not 2bliss ) Spesh Storm’s were much slacker and easier.
At the end of summer/early autumn had to repeatedly take tyres on/off because of a rim problem and remembered my old tyre technique of putting all your weight onto the tyre pushing round from top to bottom. That helped a lot.
I went through a period of punctures from the inner spoke hole edges being razor sharp, puncturing the inside of the inner tube, even through rim tape. In the end the lbs filed any silly-sharp bits off then ran insulating tape around the spoke bed then put rim tape over the lot. That’s sorted.
So is there an alternative rim of choice? I’m about to buy and build up a new bike in the next week or so. I wanted to go tubless this time and intially thought Mavic 819s but as I was planning on using 2.35 tyres, that’s apparently right on the limit for them. The 5.1s seemed to be a possible tubless. Ideally a tubless specific rim would be good but can’t think of one.Posted 9 years ago
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