I think some 350 hubs are 3 pawl, is that right? Is there an easy way to tell other than pulling the cassette off?

Am sure there is a symbol on the hub body?

See the two opposing saw tooth designs in the middle black band?

Might be wrong, but aren’t 350s with pawls actually 370s?

350 is star. 370 is pawl.

Edit: gah too slow

So nothing with 350 on the shell should have pawls?

Sure my 350 has a ratchet symbol in the middle of the hub…………….

350 should all be stars.. however some people get confused with what hub their m/e 1900 wheels (for example) have as they look fancier than “basic” and assume they must be 350.

The internals can be swapped as the shells are the same, so somebody could have swapped them…..unlikely.

Usually done to upgrade a pawl hub to ratchet, not the other way round.

Whichever is loudest on freewheel, obvs 👍

The internals can be swapped as the shells are the same, so somebody could have swapped them…..unlikely.

Didn’t YoHandsome off this forum do exactly that? 😎

He has been a little quiet after his commuting in skinsuit on cyclepath to get KOM tales

Would love to hear about the internals swap. Lad has trashed his x1900 rear wheel (28h straight pull, pawls not star). Spring broken, one damaged pawl seat in freehub body and a small chunk out of ratchet ring. Rim and spokes still good but only UK hub option I could find was a 350 hub at £170.

Lad is strong!
On the plus side, the pawl seat is part of the freehub body which comes with pawls and springs and the drive ring is replaceable.

If you want to swap to star, you’ll also need a new freehub and drive ring as well as the stars, springs, spacer and washer.. but you will also end up with compromised weather sealing which can be improved with detail dremmel/file work.
Instructions and part numbers for the swap on YouTube.
Also with an email to Dt Swiss. I just had an out of warranty broken 370 (m1900) hub replaced at reduced cost.

I did it on three Hubs so far,
two times from pawls to star and once from star to pawl on a DT240 !
A mate couldnt live with the sound of the 54 teeth ratchet and wanted the
clicking sound of a Hope freewheel..using older (used) 240 parts was a bit tricky
but didn`t experience any compromise for weather sealing with the right
freehub body and seals on the 350/370
as WZZZZ said the shells are the same for 350 and 370

but you need two special tools which are quite expensive directly from DT
I got mine from Poland for half the price but still expensive enough

and especially for a well used wheel its absolutely necessary to have a proper wise
and a solid workbench to release the ring in the Hub..

Lad is very strong junior/ u23 xc racer. Broke the hub at top of the moors on Christmas Eve when out with his mate. Had to meet him with a spare bike (mine!) so they could finish the last 15km of icy swamp (keen buggers).

The swap looks pretty easy and I’d not long ago fitted some new stainless brgs. Can also use the drive ring tool foc at a couple of lbs (not sure if they have both types as the pawl ring can stay in for bearing swaps)

However the cost looks pretty steep compared to a new hub (can do the wheel build myself). Will go have a chat with the lbs this aft as he is always swapping stuff round so usually has some dt internals.

My only reservation is the pickup on the standard star ratchet – lad is fast and snappy enough to notice. Anyone experience of both star types back to back?

lower teeth count is stronger, but pickup is slow
There have been examples of people breaking the faster pickup star ratchets. I’ve run 54 tooth stars for years with no problems, but then I’m not racing top level.

I’m sure I’ve read in several places that the star ratchet freehub body etc doesn’t sit nicely against the 370 hub – and seals aren’t very good. Seems a lot of effort to get something not perfect.

I’ve had a 370 and it was decent / reliable I thought. Compared it back to back with a Pro4 and didn’t hugely notice the slower pick up at the time.

That said I recently built a bike for a mate with the basic (slow) star ratchet hub and in the stand it did feel noticeably slow vs my Pro4 / Erase Components hubs. I suspect I probably wouldn’t notice a huge difference out on the trail though.

What I don’t like is how quiet the star ratchet is though. The 370 is louder, the Hope is a lot louder and I suspect the erase components hub is between the 370 and Pro4.

Will probably go the new hub route. If I don’t tell him about the slow pick up he might not notice 🙂

Noisy hubs are quite useful for lapping people in races (so I’m told). Kicking myself that we used to have a 28 hole sp Hope hub in a now sold 26″ wheel. Hope don’t list them anymore but might be worth a call before I buy the dt.

Yeah new hub as the parts cost is too much to bother, unless you can find a used early ratchet hub with broken flange or something.

Or just swap the internals from a brand new hub to avoid having to rebuild the wheel.

Will probably go the new hub route. If I don’t tell him about the slow pick up he might not notice 🙂
Noisy hubs are quite useful for lapping people in races (so I’m told). Kicking myself that we used to have a 28 hole sp Hope hub in a now sold 26″ wheel. Hope don’t list them anymore but might be worth a call before I buy the dt.

Trust me he won’t notice, I run 350’s on all bar one bike and 240’s on my uber posh road wheels. The 350 star ratchets are absolutely bomb proof, think 7500km of riding and racing inc. numerous 24’s and 12’s with no maintenance requirement at all!!

Mine are also deathly quiet, which is frankly awesome as I find loud hubs terribly annoying, but then again I don’t lap people much!!

36t is the sweet spot imo
Over the years I’ve had a couple of boxed 350s that came with 36t installed. I’ve also got 4 boxed 240s that have 18t in which is disappointing. Seems a lottery as to which star count you get.

I have 18t, 36t and 54t. For me 36t is the best, 18t is noticeably slow to pick up and the 54t has slipped a few times. The beauty is that they’re quick and easy to replace at relatively low cost

I agree on 36T. I (eventually) managed to wear out a 54T but I’ve got a couple of 36T that have lasted far longer.

Ok you’re selling it to me!

The 350 I found (pretty much the only stock of 28 hole straight pull 142 I can find in the UK) is 18t. Probably get that then try to pick up a 36t somewhere.

https://www.freewheel.co.uk/dt-swiss-350-straight-pull-disc-centre-lock-rear-hub-28-hole-black-white-142-mm-12-mm-hbdt350sp5

When I was looking for a hub, there seemed to be a few prebuilt wheels with narrow soft rims for the less money than hub only.
With straight pull 28h you could also look for a tacod spline wheel. The hub dims/resulting spoke length are the same for pretty much all the straight pull spline, 240, 350, boost and non boost hubs.

The internals can be swapped as the shells are the same, so somebody could have swapped them…..unlikely.

Didn’t YoHandsome off this forum do exactly that? 😎

breninbeener
He has been a little quiet after his commuting in skinsuit on cyclepath to get KOM tales

Can’t swap in the 370 freehub into the 350 body seals don’t match, can only turn the 370 body into ratchet drive, but ratchet drive is overhyped – 54t is fragile, they’re draggy and all sound like crap as they create a oscillating sound BZZZzzzZZZ (more pronounced with road use, have a listen: https://streamable.com/qqrve)

Highly recommend the new Newmen Fade hubs (German), have been very happy with them, fast engagement, light, sleek and sound great (not too loud). Hope also works at a similar price point.

I did get one KOM on a cyclepath in a skinsuit.. winter is not the time for KOMs however ;_;

not with the same seals..
seals are different !
there is one seal for all DT ratchet freehubs – 240/EXP
and one for all DT 2/3 pawl freehubs – NBR70

Thread hijack, does anyone have a spare Shimano 3 pawl freehub to sell? I’ve put a wanted ad in the classifieds but no joy yet.

Cheers